Doom86

That's gotta be damn annoying you are so close to firing this thing up too. Maybe you could use all the snow to build a igloo garage around your car?


x2!

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

OMG it is annoying!! lol the igloo deal sounds like a good idea lol but its 9* outside right now with the sun shining, prolly feels like 0* with the windchill, so youd freeze your *** off buildin an igloo ... my 4 y/o son would think it was cool though lol

going tomorrow to pick up the rear!

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

heres the new rear... "thunder racing" girdle... never heard of it but if it does the job im happy... i found out when i picked it up that the LCAs are not only solid but also adjustable, can anyone ID the manufacturer for me? and does anyone know how to tune them when im at the track?... other then that its a '02 SS 6spd rear 60k miles with 3.42s... im gonna clean it up and weld the axel housings to the pumpkin, does anyone know anything else i can do to strengthen it? figure ill get it all done while its not on the car, im gonna sand blast it and paint it black too, but i doubt ill get to it till spring... was getting it off the truck by myself, set it down an it rotated and crushed my finger

Doom86

Was there at last someone there to point and laugh at you when you hurt your self? That's what friends are for.

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

lol no but my wife pulled into the driveway right after as i was literally pouring blood from my finger, weird how so much blood came from it, she thought i may have really damaged it... but its just severely bruised, and the pressure just "popped" my nail lol its pretty good now except if something smacks it lol she's usually what smacks it lol

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

x

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

pics of the rear are up

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

the H.O. chip should plug right into my computer correct? i dont need the whole ecm?? i found a guy parting a 88 monte SS how much should i offer to pay?

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

just doin some math... with the 3.42 gears x 3.06 -700r4 1st gear ill fave a final drive ratio of 10.4652... which is pretty good for my application of hard street driving and drag racing with some occasional autocross, im just wondering what effect my tire size will have, i cant find any equation that figures it in, and honestly i cant say i know how tall the tire is anyway @ 245/50r16... if i can get a deal on a set of 255/50r16s et streets itll change it by a small amount. out of curiosity does anyone know the widest tire i can run with the 4th gen rear and 4th gen wheels? (my rims 16s are from a '99 T/A) or is it the old "try and see" answer?

Doom86

Nice work on the finger. That look's like it hurt like hell.

Get the whole ECM, don't offer more then $20-30, that's what they go for on Ebay at least. It's so easy to get to the ECM I would try swapping the whole thing. Break in with your ECM then when you know it's running swap them and see for your self. If I get mine done before you I will for sure let you know though. It doesn't look like I will but don't count me out the snow is melting as we type.

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

lucky bastard! heres a pic out my front window just now

rustrider73

where are you flip? you cant still be snowbound
hows the formula get it to the track yet?

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

after the snow i moved into a new house, 3 car garage! im still unpacking and organizing the garage i also have a *gulp* ford product i have to put a new engine in before i can work on the firebird (my wifes 99 mountaineer is getting a new 5.0L should have 300+ AWD hp lol)l but anyway ill post as soon as i have some news for right now the bird is resting comfortably under her cover in the garage... as a side note i read an article in Chevy High Performance July 2011 that has a power steering bracket http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...m-340100&dds=1 that im thinking of trying, so if anyone knows if it will work or not let me know

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

i found a deal on a all forged 383 shortblock... need to know if i can reuse my hotcam or do i have to sell it??? i know a ramjet cam will work in a 350 i have to check and see if they are on the same center... my cam will be for sale 180 shipped if i cant use it trying to sell my block so i can capitalize on the deal ASAP anyone needs it make an offer

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

i searched and found quite a bit of ppl running the hotcam in a 383 so im gonna do it until i can save up for a custom cam...

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

Def gonna need some help choosing rods and hangers now and im thinking my fuel pump is def not gonna be adequate... I have a few different rods and hangers... If i list them can someone tell me the richest combo i can make with what i have??? Does anyone have some extras they dont need??? Ill pick up the 383 next weekend and then ill need a 400 balancer and head/intake gaskets
Can someone recommend head gasket thickness with srp flat tops and vortec heads assuming stock deck height? Im going to use copper gaskets from summit just wanna know what thickness to get.... Thanks for any help maybe we'll finally hear this thing run this year!

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

ok if anyone is paying attention i did get the 383 but it was not what the seller was advertising it as... ended up getting it for $300 he installed a balanced 383 rotating assembly in a stock block without clearancing it smh... so now i have to get it clearanced... my buddy is supposed to be over next weekend and we are going to see if we can do most of it, then ill take it to the machine shop to have it finished, and ill put it all back together... no pics now but dished pistons, and cast 383 crank... i believe ill have it polished while its out... i have standard 350 main bearings brand new laying on the shelf... does anyone know offhand if theyll work or should i just have them measured?... also going to replace the rod bearings(going with new mains so why not?) and i may as well replace the rings because i dont know if they were damaged or not... seems like when it comes to engines i cant catch a break ;/ i do belive however i will be running the 350 this year because i dont know how long it will take to get the 383 ready

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

anyone know if i can use a 4" flex hone on a .030 overbore?? gotta clean this up and my friend has the 4" hone, borrowing is better then buying!!!

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The typical 4" flex ball hone will handle a 4.03" bore. All you want to do is put a cross-hatch in the surface of the cylinders, you don't want to try to take out scratches.

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

what about rust??
ill get pics of the bores

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

so im deleting the HVAC, figured why not theres no radio no ac no windsheild wipers... the hell do i need HVAC for? those hoses coming from the firewall on the pass side of the distributor, can i delete them? i want my manifold to be capped off as much as possible and get rid of all the clutter, i kow some will say "why?" well my windsheild wipers stopped working the last time i drove it... get rid of them... ac i got rid of to get more air to the radiator and reduce weight... heater, its not a "street car" ill drive it on the street, but i dont HAVE to drive it on the street so if i do i can stand to be uncomfortable... no radio, i listen to the engine... and all this reduces weight, i wanna be down to 3000 and ive added weight with the 4th gen rear and discs with solid LCAs, so anyhting i can take off helps, also as i said above i want a nice clean engine compartment... so can i just pull those hoses and cap the waterpump and manifold??

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

ok no replys to these questions might as well add some more... can anyone recomend a ring set for me i want to use plasma moly top rings for was thinking about total seal gapless... im currently negotiating a deal for a 150 shot N2O kit for $100 does anyone think the 350 will hold up to a few doeses of that??? i know my intake is not ideal for nitrous but im thinking 150 isnt that much prolly need to upgrade my fuel pump though, maybe set the pressure up a little?

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

either no ones watching anymore or no one has answers??? REALLY need to know how to mount the PS the old AC mount that the PS mount hooked to WILL NOT FIT with the headers ive grinded and bent and cut and it WILL NOT WORK, i would like to see some detailed pics of the brackets... all im running is an alternator and the ps...
THE REAR IS INSTALLED ALONG WITH THE LS1 DRIVESHAFT/ NEW BRUTE FORCE U JOINT had to get new brake lines with adapters from the 4th gen lines to the 3rd gen T...
the only thing i need to complete the car for this year is to mount the power steering PLEASE HELP! i have the oil pump primed (ill do more on the day of startup) made all new plug wires... just have to install the battery and plug in the 2 harness plugs when it gets fixed and we are good to go, pics soon i left the camera on in the garage while i was working and it killed the battery ;(

naf

iTrader: (7)

You'll have to cut off part of the AC bracket that went to the rear exhaust manifold bolt and just attach it to the forward exhaust bolt with a spacer underneath to take up the space the iron manifold occupied. Several pics here somewhere of the simple fab job.

I'd post a pic of mine but I'm out of town and away from my SC.

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

any suggestions on a search naf?

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

Naf i found a pic that you posted of yours in another thread... im guessing its plenty strong with the one bolt??? any idea of the approx width of the spacer u used???

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

ok since no one is looking might as well add a concern/ question... a buddy of mine feels like there is something missing with the fuel system, he thinks that there is no where for extra fuel to go, i told him its highly likely that the stock pump will barely pump enough fuel to the regulator but he is worried where any extra fruel will go because of the non bypass regulator... i will get a pic of the engine bay with the fuel sysstem plumbed this week, but its is set up like this... stock intank fuel pump... stock lines up to the engine bay into a inline filter into a holley non bypass regulator to a gauge at the carb... left the return line open as a vent, should i plug it? i think itll be fine for now but he thinks theres is gonna be no where for the extra fuel to go

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

You need a return style regulator with a stock pump. A factory pump NEEDS to vent off excess pressure through a return line. You're dialing the pressure down from factory - where do you think the extra pressure goes? It backs up through the fuel system and causes the pump to deadhead. You will eventually fry your fuel pump doing that.

You need a Mallory 4309 regulator.

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

yeah i was just looking at some bypass regulators... looks just like mine with 2 outputs and 1 in... im wondering if mine is capable of being bypassed, would there be any other reason for 2 outputs, i will look for the paperwork i got with the regulaotr i rember seeing a few different ways to plumb it in the paperwork... hopefully i can just plumb the return line to it and be done since it is RIGHT there next to the line anyway... you are saying that it will "eventually" break the stock pump correct? if thats the case then im good for a startup at least... i will never buy that mallory reg unless someone has one used thats way too much... i found a bnib quickfuel reg for $65 shipped... thanks for your quick response vortex... btw i see you are running vortec heads with a better cam then me and a t56... im jealous of the t56 but have you gotten it to the track? if so whats it run? what are you using for fuel delivery? did you convert to carb or use tbi/tpi?

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

is the power steering pump a saginaw II?

also what color is the electric choke wire, having a little trouble distinguishing it from the oil pressure sensor wire

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

There are two outlets so you can route a line from the reg to each fuel bowl of a Holley carb.

You can't just plumb one of the outlets to the return line, as it'll just return all of the fuel to the tank.

Without a constant fuel flow, an in-tank fuel pump will burn out.

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

ok thanks 5.7 i couldnt find the instruction sheet that came with the carb anyway... have a heck of alot more questions gonna work on getting pics posted with the Qs today... but first heres some pics of the rear...

its not letting me post the pics for some reason

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

5.7 out of curiosity... since i need to get a bypass reg anyway... would an stock ls1 pump be too much with a carb? i was thinking if im gonna drop the tank to swap pumps, might as well grab a plastic tank and drop a little weight as well as use a better style pump??? im gonna go look and see what they had to go through to do the swap i remember a couple threads a few years back about it but i never saw if they finished or not...
really wish i could post these pics i have ALOt of questions...

does anyone have pics of the brackets used for the powersteering pump? i figured out the top bracket and modded it to work with my headers, but now i have no idea how the bottom mounts
Naf helped me out with this link-->>
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...ring-pump.html <<---has pics of the ps brackets so ill get started with that and ill update the progress sometime this weekend, also i did find that there is a holley reg that is bypass and im going to check my pn against it, because they look the same the pn just has BP at the end of it and its been a long time since i bought it but i got a feeling i knew it needed to be bypass style... if not found a brand new quickfuel regulator with fittings for $65 shipped
Naf helped me out with this link

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

ok i got a QuickFuel bypass regulator in the mail for $60 shipped with the 3/8 barb fitting i need to complete the plumbing... and all the other questions are still unanswered

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

what does this plug go to??

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

what does the plug look like that goes to this sensor?

and what are these 2 plugs they are on the drivers side?i think its from something i deleted, again i have no AIR no EGR no CC and no AC

rustrider73

that plug looks like the temperature gauge sender that goes in the driver side head between spark plugs 1&3

rustrider73

those plugs look like they are for cruise control I think

naf

iTrader: (7)

Lay your harness out and hook up what you know. Should get the unknown plugs nearer where they should be.

I might can look tonight to try to help.

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

@rust thanks man i deleted CC too so that makes sense, and i thought that too about the temp sensor but it doesnt plug in, ill get a pic of that sensor maybe i just put the wrong one in that place???
@naf... i got everything plugged in that i can thats why i took pics of the stuff i couldnt figure out LOL

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

heres a pic of the progress, i have the old dist cap mocked up so i can make the plug wires at a good length and the nonbypass regulator is plumbed in the pic, i have the bypass on the way and the non is removed now... theres only 4 sensors without plugs now the 02 sensor and 3 on the block 1 is the oil pressure sensor, can someone get a pic of what that plug loks like?? and the knock sensor the temp gauge sensor and i think the rad fan swithc but not sure ill get some nice detailed pics up when i get a chance to jack the car up and get under with the camera in the next couple of days, thanks again for everyones help i know this thread is getting redundant because im taking so long, but i want to get it done right and im now SO CLOSE, here's a list of what needs to be done...
*install new fuel pressure reg
*find all plugs for unplugged sensors and plug them in(going to the junk yard tomorrow hopefully there's an LG4 in there with all the plugs cause im just gonna cut them and bring them home with pics
*install new cap and rotor (in the mail)
*Make new plug wires & install
*install new rods and hanger(have new hanger, waiting on new rods, starting with new DR/G gonna go one step richer at a time at the track after i get her running consistent)
*install battery
*install exhaust(not necessary for initial startup but needs to be done so i can drive)
*install dashpad and gauge cluster bezel(again not necessary but wont take long anyway and needs to be done

***also i need to get hardware for the front bumper,headlight bezels and the turn signals as ive lost most of it.

but as u can see after i get everything i need and find out what plugs go where, ill be finished, about 1 day or less of work and she will be driveable **crosses fingers

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

ok got to the junk yard today and solved a few problems, 1: i got a dipstick now... 2: i got all sensors plugged in, and replaced a couple of the broken plugs but the oil temp/pressure? sensor right next to the oil filter (Rust you were right about the temp sensor on the drivers side matching that plug, i just wasnt seeing it right until i saw one plugged in today at the JY LOL) didnt find any LG4 type carbed motors so i grabbed the sensor plugs off a couple TBI trucks, so the choke plug is still messed up im just hoping it makes solid contact... 3: i got the new plug wires made 4: i test fitted the Hooker Ypipe and it seems that i am going to need to clearance the Kmember or oil pan (maybe both)slightly to clear the drivers side connection i may end up going to an exhaust guy and getting him to install my exhaust it might be worth it for less hassle and to have welded joints... on a side note if anyone is interested in a 5.3LS core there was a pretty complete one in a crashed z71 there... you can get it for $125 complete if you pull it yourself, pm me and ill let you know where it is, im considering grabbing it for an "iron LS1" in my truck, ill get some pics up does anyone know what color the wire for the 02 sensor is on this thing???

naf

iTrader: (7)

Rock Auto had the choke pigtail on clearance the other day for just a few $.

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

any idea what to search for naf?? "choke pigtail"? ill try to find it

naf

iTrader: (7)

Carburetor Choke Thermostat Connector



Manufacturer: DORMAN
Part No: 85113
Notes: GRAY

Regular Price: $3.72
Closeout Price: $1.96

Found it. I get the e-mails from them and always peruse the wholesaler closeout lists they send.

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

thanks man found it... the shipping is a killer LOL 6$ for shipping, so im gonna combine a few things together... still need a oil pressure/temp sensor plug and need to find the wire its supposed to be on LOL

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

got the new fuel pressure regulaotr plumbed in today and found that you dont really need a "BYPASS regulator you can just use a restrictive fitting which is what comes with the quickfuel "efi fuel pump to a carb kit" heres a pic of the fitting, so im thinking it would save most ppl a hell of alot of money to just buy the fitting with a regular regulator

3rdgenmaro

iTrader: (9)

Yep, sorry I didnt read this any earlier. Both my s10 and camaro are running carb with the factory 4 and 6 cylinder fuel pumps. Both are plumbed the same way. I use the $20 Holley fuel pressure regulator. 1 out goes to the carb, the other out has a small piece of round stock with a 0.049" hole drilled and chamfered into it for a restriction. That line goes to the return. Never had any problems. Both have several thousand miles and atleast 5 years on the pump.

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

nice, thanks for the confirmation 3rdgen

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

need to find the 02 sensor connection and the oil pressure connection (have to order the oil press plug, do i need the 1, 2 0r 4 terminal sending unit???) and itll be all plugged in... then the distributor has to get dropped down to where she needs to be, and the plug wires plugged in then i can fire her up... oh yeah gotta pic up some 93 octane gas LOL while im at it does anyone know what to look for to get a heated 02 sensor from rockauto?