sitting here at work and dreaming of driving the 'bird, a thought occurred to me, now that i have all this extra space near the pass side firewall, would it be a good idea to remotely mount the ignition coil to get it out of the way of the distributor (theres barely any room to spin it without hitting the coil) and to get it away from the heat?? i have a bunch of self taping screws i figured i just mount it over there and lengthen the wire if i have to (might have to buy another coil wire but no big deal if it will improve performance it will def make it easier to time the distributor, thanks for any input

 

I doubt you would see any performance gain.

If it gives you more room and you mount it cleanly, then go for it.

 

Don't waste your time or effort. A properly functioning coil won't give you any trouble in the stock location.

 

yeha i wasnt really thinking id get a big increase in power but i know when i used to adjust timing on the 305 the coil is right in the way of the distributor...

still need to know what the 02 sensor wire looks like, and what the oil pressure sensor(right by the oil filter) plug looks like how many wires are going to it??

 

theres a guy getting rid of a plastic LS1 tank pretty cheap and not real far from me, was wondering if anyone knew what it takes to make it work with my setup. or, will my fuel pump assembly swap into the plastic tank??... how much weight is saved from swapping to the plastic tank over the metal one?

found some info on this here https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...s1-fuel-2.html
and this https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...nder-swap.html
still dont know if the LS1 pump would work ok with my setup, or if it has the same fuel line setup
doesnt seem like its worth the time or effort right now especially since i dont know the weight difference but if i find that my pump is severely inadequate im sure an ls1 pump will give enough volume but ill cross that bridge when i come to it

 

The weight difference is negligible.

Get a distributor wrench. Fits around all that.

 

lol i got a distributor wrench... the issue i have is the clearance of the distributor cap, it rubs the coil when u turn the distributor

 

meanwhile if i can ID the wire for the o2 sensor i can wire that up tomorrow and all that will be needed is the oil sensor plug... if someone can get me a pic of it i can check the whole harness for it, at least find the right color wire... (there are a few plugs i tucked into the harness becuase i didnt think i would be using them)

 

would this https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...leanup-005.jpg happen to be my oli pressure sensor plug?? i found in a way earlier post that i didnt know what it was... if its the ops then i will hunt it down and plug it in friday, and all that would be left is the 02 sensor to be spliced in... will this thing run without them??? im really hoping i can set #1 to 6-8* btdc rotor on 1 and fire her up tomorrow after i get done draining/flushing my subarus coolant and replacing the o2 sensor/brake fluid(60k maintenance schedule who ever heard of replacing good brake fluid???)

 

anyone know the pn for my comp chip?? '87 lg4 im wondering if its worth switching to the 1228079 87 monte SS chip or if it might be the same becuase ive seen the same part number for LG4 apps... i can find '86 L69 chips, but i header that the 87 computer is faster an the L69 chip has a more aggressive spark curve?? again just speculating here im gonna run it as is hopefully tomorrow if she will run without me finding and plugging in those 2 sensors plugs

 

It will run without the O2 sensor plugged in but will be in closed loop, running rich.

There should be two sensors coming off of the oil pressure fitting on the china wall near the distributor. A single wire, can shaped sensor is for the oil pressure guage. A smaller, two wire sensor is for the oil pressure switch to the in-tank electric pump. The pigtail for mine has blade openings parallel to each other (kinda like a small version of a household receptacle).

Your pics blurry but it may be the 'extra' pigtail that comes out of the engine harness on the driver's side. This pigtail hangs in space below the brake booster and doesn't connect to anything.

 

ok closed loop and rich is not a problem for now...

naf heres a question, since both oil sensors (pressure and temp) are right behind the manifold on the top back of the block, and i have them plugged in... what is the sensor right next to my oil filter?? was i not supposed to use one there?? i believe the sensor came from the vortec 350 but i could be mistaken... there is no plug that is anywhere near it same with my o2 sensor though, i have 1 wire that is cut and MAY or may not be for the o2 sensor(no way of knowing)

 

There are two oil pressure ports on the SBC. The one by the oil filter was not used on the 87 LG4. You can leave the sensor in there or plug the port.

Your O2 sensor plug should come out of the harness with the TPS and MCS wires. Should be the longer wire to reach across the manifold to the O2.

 

awesome makes total sense... new problem filled up the radiator only to find that my old waterpump wont hold water!?!?!? pulled it immediately gonna go find out how much i can get one for... the plug wires are all plugged in order and shes on tdc #1, SO close and another setback!

 

Several years ago five7kid posted just set the timing back 4 - 6 degrees and it's about the same effect as an SS chip. It's true and wakes the engine up for cheap. That being said if you do find a couple of Monte chips buy one for me if it's cool. I'd send you price, shipping and another 20 more for your troubles. I'd love to to have an 87 or 88 SS chip. The 87 & 88 years fit our computers perfectly. IIRC an 86 has a computer that is different.

 

so i take it you mean advance the timing 6-8*...
ill keep an eye out for the computers... i think thats the only other difference between LG4 and L69 once you get rid of the stock engine, could be wrong, i plan on getting the esc that gm used to sell with the H.O. 350 kit in the future as well as a hotter module for the distributor and an aftermarket coil... so pissed right now im going to order a waterpump, i cant afford a stewart like u recomended scooter improbably gonna get a procomp aluminum and hope for the best, they are 50$ shipped

 

btw guys no difference in this waterpump from a regular sbc long water pump right??

 

ok just ordered a procomp HV aluminum pump $50 shipped should be here friday, but im going away for the weekend so i dont know when ill be able to get back to the bird, hopefully next tuesday, we will see, SO disappointed and behind in my projects now... gonna spend time cleaning/organzing the garage and try to get the wifes mountaineer engine swap complete this week ;(

 

IIRC the GM ZZ4 chip doesn't provide for EGR. I'm looking for an 87 or 88 monte carlo ss chip as it has egr provision.

 

i dont mean the chip... i was talking about the esc, and spark module... that zz4 chip is way too expensive anyway i cant find it less then 300 and i only found it in 1 place... L69 chip will be fine for me, i may be going with a aftermarket carb eventually anyway, but i dont have egr so thats not an issue for me lol

 

You'll need to replace the ESC and the KS. They are a matched pair and the 305 set won't work on the 350. JYs the best place to find the ESC unless you want to pay +$50.

Start with zero base timing until you get this thing dialed in. You can add more advance later once you've got the carb and everything set right. You may also not notice much difference with the L69 chip or advancing past base. The vortec heads are fast burn and won't need as much timing advance.

 

naf can i get the esc from a 350 tbi?? or are they different?? i have a brand new 350 KS installed... for now the stock esc is gonna have to try and work lol... finding a Qjet 350 with the esc in a junk yard up here would be a miracle from god... i couldnt even find an LG4... ill go see what i can get the zz4 esc for

 

ESC and KS from any 350 will work. Don't spend on new.

 

ok so tpi or tbi still have the same?

 

Yes. I may have one for you this afternoon.

 

awesome let me know thanks

** forgot to tell how i delt with the coil being in the way of the distributor... found that the pass side bolt interferes with the distributor so i took it out, turned the coil away slightly and tightened down the drivers side bolt, hoping thats enough to hold it in place pretty strudy, its the stock coil, so ill be replacing it shortly anyway and i think when i put the new aftermarket one in ill extend the wires for it and mount it on the pass firewall... but its not priority

 

anyone have a pic of the O2 sensor plug?? i found a plug i think it is and took a pic, but i think the o2 sensor installed in my headers uses a different plug(the headers came off an '89 5.7L IROC)

 

Should be the same plug for the O2 if it's the single wire. Pretty standard across a lot of vehicles.

I've got a HKR ESC for a 350 if you need one.

 

yeah man how much shipped to 18428?

 

but yeah the plug im looking at is a diff color and a dif style then the plug that came on the 02 sensor ill get a pic up tonight when i get home

 

is this the 02 plug?

 

Yeah. O2 plug. Get you a quote on shipping soon. Haven't been home yet.

 

awesome on both! thanks naf... im thinking maybe i need a different sensor because the one in my header is not gonna plug into that LOL... if i get a "heated sensor" will it plug right in or will i have to splice it too?? i have a couple of sensors from a V10 triton will they work LOL

 

these triton v10 sensors have 4 wires so im guessing its not gonna work lol

 

A standard heated O2 should have three wires: hot, ground and signal.

 

I should be able to send that module to you if you want it. Say $12 shipped? That would cover my cost and shipping. It should fit in one of those little bubble envelopes. PM me your address if you want it.

 

pm sent to naf...
** just got the procomp waterpump in the mail, im really happy, it feels like 1/2 the weight of the stock LOL too bad i dont have nice new pulleys to go on everything but ill get to that later on, i was wondering if i can delete the hose that cgoes from the front of my manifold to the waterpump as this one came with a plug in the top outlet? i really want to to clean up the intake area and im thinking it may actually aid cooling due to the increased flow of the pump ????

 

so... shes all together everything is plugged in, water pump isnt leaking, got the o2 sensor rigged to connect (didnt wanna splice it so i can keep my stock connector for when i get a replacement) new esc is installed (thanks again naf) and... NO POWER! i hooked up a battery charger and nothing not even a click. i took the grounds that were connected to the bracket on the waterpump and put them on the head because the waterpump is aluminum and i didnt think it was a good ground anymore(?!?)... i have another ground connnected to the strut tower that im going out to move to the head with the others right now... the rear ground strap that was connected to the drivers side rear head and to the firewall is now connected to the pass side head because it fit better there, would that make a difference??? i thought a ground was a ground??? maybe i need a real battery hooked up? i thought the 12v 10a charger/starter was enough to at least turn the lights on??? if i get a real battery connected and i get nothing after i triple check all these grounds i will get some pics of the wiring to see if anyone can identify any obvious problems... cross your fingers for me im SO CLOSE RIGHT NOW!!!!!

 

Aluminum is fine for the battery ground. The LS1, for instance, is all aluminum, so you don't have much choice but grounding to aluminum with it.

A 10A charger should turn the dome light on, but that's about it.

Do you have the two large red wires connected to the starter with the positive battery cable?

 

OMG i should have thought of that... that was stupid huh?

i dont recall the 2 red wires i will check & take some pics and post them... guess im gonna need to hook a battery up

 

ok so i checked out the wires and the fuses... there are no RED wires going to the battery... there is a ground coming from the block and a small wire coming from the alternator as well as an orange wire with fuse... and the other one is just grounded to the head, and grounded to the inner fender... so i guess thats not right??? ill get pics later

 

just connected the truck battery to the car... constant sparks when i connected the pos cable... so something is def wrong with the wiring, anyone have any suggestions??? i really dont wanna make a new thread for this but i def need help

 

CAN SOMEONE PLEASE POST PICS OF HOW THEIR BATTERY IS PROPERLY HOOKED UP

 

Positive lead (large one) to starter terminal, positive small lead to rear of alternator (make sure it's not touching the case. There should also be a small positive lead going through a small disconnect along the fenderwell near where the fuel lines go to rubber. This provides constant hot to the ECM. Make sure none of these leads are touching a ground, which can happen at the rear of the alternator or at the starter.

Negative larger lead to alternator bracket, smaller negative lead to chassis next to battery.

 

I'll try and post some pics up of the wiring on my suburban when I get back this evening. It's a whole lot easier to see where the wires go on that big old beast than on the F-body.

-cal30sniper

 

Hey man, here's those shots I promised. I'll try to explain what each one is. Check everything over CAREFULLY before you put power to it again. You don't want to start tearing up electrical stuff on these cars, trust me.


The first is a picture of the terminals of the battery and what wires should be running to them. Notice that the (-) terminal of the battery has a large gauge black wire that runs to a ground on the block. You can't see where it attaches in this photo, but it should bolt either to the mount where the alternator attaches to the water pump, or one of the blocks in the bolt down low just above the oil pan on the passenger front side of the block. Either will do. Don't be concerned about aluminum for a ground. Aluminum is actually a better conductor than iron. The (+) terminal has two wires. The large gauge wire runs down to the front of the block on the passenger side, along the oil pan on the passenger side (there's a clip for it down there), and to the large terminal on the starter. The small gauge wire runs to the single nut connection on the back of the alternator.


This photo shows the wire hookup on the back of the alternator. Notice the shielded wire coming from the water pump area, that's the wire that runs to the battery. The other wire hooked up to the same connection on the alternator runs down the back of the block and also hooks to the large terminal on the starter. I know my alternator is on the opposite side, but you get the idea.


This photo shows the terminal block they are speaking of on the firewall. Yours may look a little different, but you get the idea.


This shot is looking inside the header towards the starter solenoid. Notice the large gauge wire and the medium/small red wire coming in from the alternator. They both hook to the large terminal on the alternator.

That should get you running no problem. Double check and make sure your groundstrap at the back of the block is hooked up as well. Let me know if that doesn't fix it for you.

By the way, that's my 5.7 Vortec swap above. It's a GM Goodwrench 350 shortblock with GM Performance Vortec heads, CompCams 1.6:1 Magnum roller rockers, an Edelbrock Performer Intake, and a TBI to Quadrajet conversion. You're going to love the same set-up in your bird. Even with that big ol' burban, with 3.73s, a built TH700, and this engine, I still put the stomp on a lot of people from a stop.That's the old style quadrajet and ignition too, no computer and a lot easier to tune. I highly suggest it if you aren't terribly concerned with emissions legality.

-cal30sniper

 

ok i think weve found the prob thanks sniper and naf... i def dont have the big wire going to the strarter so friday i will start with that...
as for the non comp stuff, no emmissions, it will be tagged as a classic next year so no need to worry about that no cat no egr no air... as for ditching the comp, id love to just for the sake of being rid of all the wiring, but i cant afford it right now... gotta use what i got, maybe next year

 

The world anxiously awaits your progress report...

Did it work?

 

ver sorry, got sidelined with a migraine on friday, had work sat 10 am... still here at work until tomorrow at 10am... will def post video(if it works) or pics(if it doesnt work) and thanks again guys for the invaluable help

 

got the wiring right thanks to the pics and suggestions from you guys, thanks AGAIN like i said you ppl are INVALUABLE ...the timing however, not so much :| i ran out of time the wife was calling me in for dinner, shower then SOA is on tonight, work tomorrow ill get back to it friday but its moving along and my goal is to get to the strip in oct