No cats. Just a 2 x 2.5" into 1 x 3" . Stock routing to a single 30 series Flowmaster. That thing is a major choke and it's something I'd like to prove and demonstrate with a few back to back comparisons. To get enough CFM (800+/-) out of a single muffler ( in the stock location) I'm forced to go with a larger than 3" muffler of the "race" variety. I have a couple of other ideas instead of that although I'll post that somewhere other than your thread.

 

Are you sure? I'd swear that Dynomax has some "Bullet" muffs that flow as well as 3" straight pipe.

 

That would be news to me. I'll take a look. A lot of these manufacturers don't like to publish their CFM specs. They should be as available as carb info.
Thanks.

 

Well wouldn't you know. Right off the Dynomax website.

The DynoMax VT muffler delivered 841 cubic-feet-perminute flow, compared to 588 CFM for the MagnaFlow and 373 CFM for the Flowmaster.1

Hmmm. The wheels are turning. Just in time for reassembly too.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Dynomax/289/17...ductId=1316158

 

What was that I was typing at bird boy about making assumptions versus asking questions?

 

Well in my defense, It IS a new product listing (Jan 2010) and since the car has been in pieces, I've let my research slip a little.
That's why I hang out here. One of the best research tools there is.
I've edited my previous post to include the Dynomax link to Jeg's.

 

I'll be eager for your report on what the muff swap does to the elapsed times.

 

I've a lot of work to do before the car is back together.
New gas tank arrives today. From there it's all about putting it back together while the lump is at the machine shop. Target the end of October for a potential outing. That would a take a little luck and a lot of work.
I'll make the first trip out to re-establish the baseline. I expect this configuration to be a little quicker as it should be lighter by a couple of hundred pounds, have a 3.73 Dana instead of the 3.27 9 bolt and have a fresh engine.
Then the muffler. That may wait till next season.

 

Atilla,i may have missed it but what are you using for pushrods? I have a set of tried and true hardened TRW 48015's laying around that i would be willing to donate to the build.

 

Thanks, but I have a set.

 

Progress! I got a steering column, so I'll get some pics of what was wrong with the original.

 

I found a few minutes to spare. I got the horn bolted back in, in a new location, and bungee strapped a radiator in place. Didn't get the steering column or other headlight lens done yet, but yesterday I got a free 350 just for asking. It'll serve for mock-up while building the 315.
I disassembled it last night, all that can be saved is the block itself. It's a high-nickel and high-tin 3970010 block, already 30 over, with 2-bolt mains, and no core shift. I'm thinking it'll probably end up in Brian's '85 Nissan 300ZX, with another pair of stage 2.5 Vortecs, and a COMP NX268H13 cam, because the Z has a 3.70:1 rear gear.

 

 

 

I'm not really happy with that, I'm going to try for 3/8" down and 1/8" rearward, when I have time and feel healthy enough. But first I need a good used '70-'79 Camaro oil pan.

 

 

 

 

Sorry to stray from the build....but...
Is there a way to visually see that a block has no core shift?....when i look at the front of my 80's 350 block the hole for the camshaft is not exactly centered in the surrounding machined surface.

 

visual is the only way to tell. Sounds like you have shift, but post pics of the ends of the block so we can make sure.

 

I just placed an order for the FRPP adjustable transmission crossmember.

 

Awesome thread Atilla, not sure why I havent entered into until now. I just finished up reading through all of it.

Everything is sounding great, cant wait to see the updates.

Best of luck and prayers on being able to continue doing what you are great at and obviously love to do

 

pic of 350 block with the cam not exactly centered in the machined area