im doing trying to swap in an older 350 from a 71 c10 truck that uses the a 12 in flywheel and an 11 in clutch... my car is an 84 t/a with a 5 spd borg warner t-5 tranny, its bell housing will not fit my 350, its also equipped with a hydraulic clutch, so a 621 bell housing is out of the question. Does anyone know of a hydraulic bell housing for a big flywheel and clutch with a 4 5/8 in center hole that will fit my borg warner? or any advice? would taking the cable clutch setup from one of the older 4 spd 82 trans ams be a possibility?

 

You can use the flywheel and clutch out of the T/A and put it on the 350 since both are two piece RMS

 

Yes the BH out of the 84 WILL fit on the 350.

No other combo will work in the F-body, besides the F-body BH, FW, & clutch. All of it will bolt right up to the 350. None of the truck drive train stuff will work.

 

thats the thing the stock flywheel and clutch dont fit since the block is older and out of a truck the flywheel MUST be a 12 in flywheel the stock one doesnt fit the center whole is a bit too little...

 

No, that's not "the thing". You are confused.

All flywheels from 55 up to 85 will fit all motors from 55 up to 85. There is no difference in the center hole.

If your F-body flywheel doesn't fit your older block, then you have a 86-up motor in there right now (been swapped at some point in its life). In that case, all you need to do is get the flywheel for a 83-85 V8 T-5 F-body. Be aware that there are 2: one is about 22 lbs, and came on the low-perf cars (LG4); and one is about 16 lbs, and came on the high-perf cars (L69). Either will fit and work but you'll prefer the lighter one.

You CANNOT use the truck stuff. Forget it. Sell it to someone with a truck. Move on. Get stuff that fits. Don't argue, that's just the facts.

 

hey man no need to b so rude.. im not arguing this is a thread where we all express our opinions and experiences...ill state some facts since your so fond of them:
i have a 1971 sbc 350 which was pulled from a 1971 c10 1/2 ton truck
this truck uses the heavy duty 11in clutch and a 168 tooth flywheel being as it is a truck
the stock t/a flywheel center hole is not large enough to attach to the end of my crankshaft.... the metal is not going to stretch on there like a rubber band because you say it should fit
i know it is the original motor because the owner of the truck was an old man who maintained the truck well thats why it lasted so long along with minimal city use of the truck and the motor was never swapped
also i ordered all my parts (including flywheel) for that year and model truck...and of course the flywheel fit and was not the same dimensions as the t/a flywheel...

 

Read it again jo-daddy... sofakingdom know's what he's talking about.
All that matters is that the clutch, flywheel, etc match the transmission and the rear main seal of the engine you're installing. The only reason that a flywheel from a 1984 305 wouldn't fit on a 71 Chevy truck, is if the 84 had the engine swapped at some point to a 1 piece rear main seal engine.

Like he said, the truck junk isn't really compatible with the T5. Just go get a flywheel that matches the engine (84-85 V8 for 2 pc RMS, 86-92 V8 for 1 pc RMS), get a Camaro/Firebird clutch set, and it'll all bolt up.

 

Forget "truck" for a minute. There's nothing magical about that shape of the sheet metal.

Your problem is, YOUR CAR. It has a 86-up motor in it, NOT a 55-85 motor, which is what the one you're trying to put this stuff onto is. THAT'S WHY THE FLYWHEEL ON IT NOW WON'T FIT THE OLDER MOTOR.. It has nothing to do with "truck" or "the old man" or any of that. It's all about year models.

You simply have the wrong flywheel to fit a 55-85 motor. You have the flywheel for a 86-up motor, BECAUSE THAT'S WHAT YOUR CAR'S MOTOR IS RIGHT NOW. The CAR's motor is not original.

Your 11" clutch and 14" flywheel and truck BH WILL NOT FIT your car. Period. Fuhgeddaboudit. Trash it. Sell it. File it in your attic. Whatever. IT'S NOT GOING IN YOUR CAR. That's all there is to that. Accept it. End the denial. Move on.

You need a flywheel that fits 55-85 Chevy V8s. Out of all those years, the ONLY one that wil work for your situation, is the one that WAS in your car BEFORE it had the 86-up motor swapped into it.

You need a 83-85 305 F-body flywheel. Simple. Easy. Straight to the point. Nothing else will work. The right thing WILL work. Period. There are 2 83-85 flywheels to choose from: the LG4 one, which weighs 22 lbs, and the L69 one, which weighs 16 lbs. EITHER will work for you but you'll probably like the light one better. NOTHING ELSE will. It's just that simple. I'm not sure how it can be any simpler. Go get a flywheel for 83-85 F-body 305, and your prayers will be answered. Once you get that ONE MISSING PIECE, all your other stuff will bolt right up, work, and drive away.

It's really not all that tough. It's just a car. A very ordinary, commonplace, run-of-the-mill, mass-produced thing. Once you get to know what was put in what, there are no further secrets. Lots of us have been there before, LOTS of times. If you'll just listen instead of fighting back, it will come much easier to you. Remember, we don't HAVE to help you out, you know; be nice to us who know what we're doing and are telling you the truth, and listen, and maybe we'll continue to be nice to you, in return.

 

OBTW: There is one other detail you should be aware of.

Depending on what 350 you actually have, specifically if it's from about 77 or before, it won't have a certain one of the holes required by the starter required by the 12.8" flywheel required by the bell housing required by the car (long chain of cause and effect, that). You will need to add this hole right here, like I had to do to this 400 block from about 73 or so:



You have to add the one that's circled. It appeared at the same time as that size flywheel got invented, around 78 or so; blocks from before then won't have it for sure unless somebody has added it since (VERY rare), and not all blocks got it until about 80. No "features from the future" come on those old blocks.

It's a special kind of hole as you can clearly see in the pic, because starter bolts are special. The hole has a non-threaded section about ¼" deep before it gets to the threads, and the bolts have a special enlarged and knurled section right behind the threads that fits tight to the block (and correspondingly, the starter) and acts like a dowel pin to positively locate the starter in relation to the crank. Without those bolts the starter won't stay put and the teeth won't mesh, which makes starting VERY difficult if not impossible. Its location is CRITICAL; not something you want to take a chance on. And of course, you only get one try; mess that up, and you won't be able to use that block with a T-5, EVER.

Have your local machine shop add that hole to your motor. It's ALOT easier to do that than to blow it off until the motor is already in the car, and then figure out how you're going to lay up under there on your back and get the required degree of accuracy.

No, there is not some magic starter you can get that will fix this, no matter how many people who HAVEN'T been there and done that try to tell you there is. The reason is so simple that those inexperienced people can't "get" it: and that is, the bolt over at the left side of that pic, is too far from the crank, such that even if you could somehow get a bolt to go through the starter you have to use and it screwed into that hole, it would have to go RIGHT DIRECTLY THROUGH THE MIDDLE of the starter Bendix. So it's not about this or that or the other starter, it's about the bolt hole simply being IN THE WRONG PLACE. Don't fall for all the uninformed drivel you'll get when you ask about it, because if somebody tells you there's a starter that will work without that hole, THEY'RE WRONG. Just because they're telling you what you will be wanting to hear at that point, won't make it so.

 

Congratulations. You've cost yourself hundreds of dollars by not researching.
The Lakewood 15020 will work in your car with the poorly chosen clutch and 168 tooth flywheel.

The 82 and 83 were mechanical linkage with bellcrank z-bar, not cable.