Hey guys ! I would like to say thanks for all the help during the past year Hope all is well

So I have my 82 Trans Am, 140,000 miles, Crossfire engine and 200C Tranny. It has been idling rough and at 65 mph, the tranny is at 2600 RPM. I only have the car for a week, but with the miles and so on, it will cost a lot to rebuild the engine and get the Throttle Bodies. So I need help swapping the Crossfire out and putting in a GM Goodwrench/TargetMaster 94 production date Crate Engine Cast # 10066036 with 22,000 miles and a 700r4 Transmission. I paid $ 600 for everything, and the engine came with - fully dressed. holley four barrel carb, Edelbrock dual plane intake, HEI distributor, ram exhaust manifolds, starter, fuel pump, water pump, alternator, ps pump. I think for swapping the Tranny I need - kick down cable, non-locking converter or lock-up kit, drive shaft, tranny mount, torque arm -?
Any and all will be great. Thank you very much

Engine specs :

350 Cubic inches 4.00" Bore, 3.47" stroke
8.0:1 compression ratio.

250 HP @4300 rpm 350 ft. lbs of torque @ 3600 rpm

( These Numbers obtained with a Quadrajet Carb,1 5/8" headers , and an Edelbrock Performer intake part # 2101)



Engine consists of the following parts:
Block -part # 10066034, casting # 10066036 2 piece rear main seal 4 bolt main



Crankshaft- part # 3932444 Nodular Iron 1985 and older flywheel bolt pattern.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Connecting rods- Part # 10108688 Powdered Metal


Pistons- part#12514101 Cast Aluminum

Oil Pump- part # 12555284 G.M. High Volume Pump


Camshaft- Part#3863151 Hydralic Flat tappet
Intake Lift-.383" Exhaust Lift-.401"

Intake Duration @ .050"- 194° Exhaust Duration @.050"- 202°

Lobe Seperation-112°

This cam Has a mechanical Fuel Pump Lobe. This is a low end Torque oriented camshaft.



Cylinder Heads- part # 14034808 casting #33417369
1.94" Intake valve , 1.50" Exhaust Valve 76cc Combustion Chamber

7 Bolt style Exhaust Flange Standard 85' and prior intake manifold bolt pattern.

Perimeter bolt style Valve Covers. This head is very similar to the old #882 castings from the 1970's

 

 

 

You need a transmission crossmember as well. It mounts farther back, and since the frame members are a "V" shape, it will be shorter.

82's didn't have a TH700 or T5 option, so they only had the transmission crossmember mount nuts for the forward position. The rear ones work for the front bolts of a TH700 crossmember, but you'll have to drill holes and put nuts up in the frame members to mount the rear bolts.

Use a lock-up kit. The transmission has to be modified for a non-lock-up converter.

Since you're running a Holley, you'll need a TV cable geometry corrector bracket mounted on the carb throttle arm.

 

Hey five7kid !
So for the tranny swap I need, a kick down cable, non-locking converter or lock-up kit, drive shaft, tranny mount, torque arm and the transmission crossmember mount. Do you know where I can get all of this stuff-?
What do you think about the Holley that came with it ?
What do you think I should do with the engine -? New gaskets,new starter,water pump and so on ? Also,when I'm ordering parts, do I just order for a V8 Chevy 5.0 -? Or say Goodwrench Replaceemnt engine -?
Thanks

 

I might scrap that Holly and get an Edelbrock

 

If you intend to drive this car on the street, then keep the lock-up torque converter.

It's not a "kick down cable", but a "throttle valve cable". It appears there is already one on the transmission, but it doesn't look like it is hooked up to the carb. Looking closer at your pics, it looks like the carb already has the geometry corrector bracket.

I wouldn't prefer that Holley, but I'd take it over an Edelbrock.

If any of the gaskets or seals look like they are leaking, or are disturbed in the engine swap process, then replace them. Otherwise, it probably isn't worth it to replace them (some will say replace them all while the engine is out). Water pump, alternator, starter, fuel pump, hoses, spark plugs & wires, cap & rotor, are all pretty standard things to replace when replacing an engine.

Get 305 stuff except for spark plugs (not sure what the Goodwrench engines used). The water pump/alternator belt is like the '86-'87 models, if you keep that set-up. You could put your '82 stuff on it you like, but I like that flat multi-groove belt. '86 & '87 had a different electrical plug for the alternator, but I can't tell from your photos which one that is. '86 is the same as '82, but '87 is different.

Those exhaust manifolds won't work in a 3rd gen.

 

Hey five7 ! Yep,only street driving,and I bought the kit at Jegs. About the Cross member, I think UMI makes one for the 200c-700r4 swap, I called them today,but they're away at a car show.Do I have to change the Torque arm too, the one off my 82 for the 200C looks long and I'm not sure if the 700r4 will be in the way ? What about front end parts -? All the links are shot,so I was looking for a complete Front End kit. Any ideas -? Also looking for front shocks/springs and maybe the control arm. The carb has the correct bracket, but I ended up buying a new TV cable from Jegs also. Which Holley would you prefer -? I'm going with headers and a full new exhaust,not sure which brand,hooker or maybe the Jegs brand. The engine is out, but I'm not sure what to do with the old wiring and what to keep and what not to keep. I'm looking for a drive shaft too,I heard aluminum is good-? Sorry for all the questions and Thank you very much for the help, I really really need it. Thanks everyone

Here are the parts I bought so far,and a lot of pics

From Summit :

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-67264/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWM-9100/

From Jegs :

http://www.jegs.com/i/TCI/890/376600/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...60701/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...60152/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr.+Gasket/720/7104/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr.+Gasket/720/7703/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...03101/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...10100/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr.+Gasket/720/1099/10002/-1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

engine a little grubby on the outside,but looks super
clean on the inside-looks like it was a great buy.
The trans am looks really nice too

 

Thanks 8t2 ! Its was a great deal on the engine. The engine is out,so now I'm just cleaning up the engine bay. I'm just a little confused now. I'm not sure if I need to keep any wires from the engine harness,or just pull the whole thing out -? And do I need a new torque arm since I have to get another cross member for the 700r4 -? I'm just stuck on a few things :/ please

 

Hey guys ! I'm stuck on a few things. I am about to pull out the Engine Harness and ECM,but how do I wire up the Oil Pressure switch and Coolant Temp sensor.? Thanks

 

Bumping this up, I'm really caught in a jam

 

You use the wires that were originally used by the Crossfire for the oil pressure switch.

You don't use the Coolant Temperature Sensor in the thermostat housing - that only goes to the ECM. You use the temperature gauge sender in the driver side head.

 

Hey Five ! So I use the original wire for the oil pressure switch,thanks.So you don't recommend pulling out the Engine Harness and ECM -? The temperature gauge sender,is that the one off the 350 -? Or from the Crossfire. Also about the fuel pump, I am going with the mechanical pump off the 350,but about the electrical pump in my tank,can I just take out the fuel pump and leave the sending unit in there -? Thanks

 

Just curious, is the CFI for sale?

 

Different harnesses.

From the Crossfire.

I would either use the in-tank electric with a return-style regulator and no mechanical pump, or the in-tank electric with a return-style engine-mounted mechanical pump. This is your best bet for consistent fuel delivery and prevention of vapor lock.

But, if you really want to pull the in-tank electric, there is a sticky in the top section of the Carburetor forum on how to modify the pick-up to act as a mechanical type. Regardless, I would replace the fuel pump rather than using the one that is on the 350, and I would use a 3rd gen style pump - the Carter M6626 is a good high-performance pump that fits and operates like a 3rd gen pump. It includes a return, which is there to help reduce the possibility of vapor lock.

 

Hey Jensen ! Sorry the Crossfire is covered in shrink wrap and put away.

Hey Five ! I went with the Carter Fuel Pump and checked out the Carb section regarding the mod. So I'll follow that,and pull the electric pump out and leave the sender and run a line and return to the Carter in the 350,thanks

But I'm stuck in a jam with my swap from the Crossfire to the 350, I was wondering how can I wire up the Oil Pressure switch when the one from the 350 looks different.Here are some pics the first two is from the Crossfire and the other two is from the 350. Thanks

Crossfire Oil Pressure Switch




350 Engine

 

The Crossfire oil pressure unit is a combination gauge sending unit and fuel pump switch. You only need the tan wire from the Crossfire harness. It shouldn't cause any issues if you just use the Crossfire sending unit plugged into the Crossfire harness.

 

Five ! You've been great help,thank you. So can I use the Crossfire Combination sending unit on the SBC 350 -? Or should I use the Tan wire from the Crossfire harness to the OEM SBC Oil Pressure switch-? If so,what is that other unit on the SBC 350 next to the Oil Pressure switch

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...l-exhaust.html

 

Hey guys ! Seems like forever, but after months and months of gathering up parts,I almost ready to install the engine. I just have two questions. Does about know how to wire up the painless kit for the 700r4 -? And regarding the fuel pump, can I leave the electric pump in the tank with a regulator in-between then onto a mechanical pump on the SBC -? Any help would be great, hope all is well