Hey guys this is a quick 1
I want a 350 1pc hyd roller 2 or 4 bolt main (THIS IS NOT A WANT ADD)

I know the corvette l98 has it all with the 4bolt main but ppl selling that engine for like 2k I just need a block and I can't find 1

So what other application has it I know it 87 newer block, can I get a vortec motor out atruck, a 350 from a half ton, I beleave not all 1pc main are not hyd rollers I herd u can get it drilled for that where do they drill and is it as good I don't wanna spend more that 200 bucks for a 350 a little more if its bored over .30 and out the shop. I will not go with a retro kit a 2pc old 73 block if I have to spend 2k on a block I would just get a aftermarket new 1 for like 1k or a zz4-zz383 block. I will be making a 383 stroker with a custom cam. I not putting a LT or LS motor in a 3rd gen so don't tell me I can get more power of a ls for cheaper because u can't. First gen block parts are cheaper if I lived in cali yeah y'all get stuff for cheap here in MI ppl want ls2 money for a 5.3l block crazy. Thanks for all the help

 

Summit sells a roller 383 block...supposively already machined and clearenced. probably the best deal going for a budget block replacement.

 

Yeah. I talked to your cam guy he wanted 2k for the cam rhs alm heads fully assembled that's still kinda high but if I can get the rest of the engine for 2500 ( fully mechined 4.030 block, forged 383 kit, miscellaneous stuff, miniram, 58mm TB, 30# injectors, tune, frame tie, and if I can get a little more money from my source a 700r4 rebuilt by myself and uncle, I seen a rebuild kit for 600 for a 700 hp. I looking to find all that stuff used can't get a bite on the wanted add. I'm hoping I can get the whole miniram with tb and injetors for the price of a new 1 bout 1200

 

The vette L98 was a 2 bolt, not 4. And later L05s (95 for sure) from c/k trucks came provisioned for roller cam but had a flat tappet stuff in it. Actually the same block for the vortecs. Run the vin to make sure. You can find those cheap, heck I got one for free! Next step is to take the roller assmebly out of my old 305as and build up a monster. I think that'd be cheapest

 

That aint to bad for a custom grind and good heads with good valve train. Figure 350 for a cam, 200 for good springs, 50-100 for retainers/locks, 50-100 for studs, 1200-1500 for CNC heads....thats 1850 on the low side. All depends on what you really want that car to do. You may not need those heads...something abit more budget can work but shelf heads you need to watch the springs you use with hydraulic rollers if using a aggressive cam.

 

The dff from Fbody L98 from Ybody L98 is the Ybody had alm heads and 4bolt main. The Ybody or Corvette was the only passenger car with a 350 4bolt main hyd roller 1pc main. Look it up.

Yeah he said he can do it for 1800 but I think ima find so used heads and send those out hec I can put it together myself I will just get springs, retainers, spring sets, and cam from him and find some heads I can get those same heads for a lil cheaper from summit I have a 10% coupon I'm sure I can find more. I'm trying to keep the engine and trans under 5k a lot of DIY only out source is the tune. I don't know boo boo about tuning

 

Well I'm not sure if you are getting Chad's RHS heads or just regular as cast RHS heads. Big difference. Chad runs a cnc program through them and hence the extra cost for his port design...which to say is better than RHS as cast for sure.

You likely can run his profiler 210's for 1400 complete with springs/retainers. That is more than enough for your 500hp goal if I recall.


I also thought vettes were 4 bolt mains too. The 383 I had was a 91-99 block 4 bolt main and a roller. Not sure what the block came from, either a truck or a vette but the last year sbc vette was 91 so chances are it was another vehicle.

 

Well the 85 vette L98 in my car is a 2 bolt.

But to make sure they didn't change that in 87 I went ahead and looked it up. Every source I found said that all Corvette L98s were a 2 bolt main, and that was on the C4 section of the Corvette Forums. Figured they'd know what was in their own cars. I did find one thread where two guys were arguing over wether it was 2 or 4, niether knew for sure. You're probably thinking of the zz4, which is a 4 bolt main, and uses the vette L98s aluminum 113 heads.

 

Not all TBI truck engines were roller ready. My 95 350 was drilled but not tapped for the lifter retainer and cam retainer.

 

Zz4 engine is pretty much a vette l98 just diff cam every where I read said 4bolt and I don't see why they wouldn't the vette had eveything first and it was better. The vette forums just like all are just opinions google it wiki it but I dnt kno for a fact if the 2pc main is 1 but the 1pc is

 

I was getting bret b..... something he didn't say anything about cnc but I want a procharger 2 but that will get that l8r and I don't wanna new cam if I do it will be over the counter

 

All L98 Corvettes had 2-bolt mains.

All LT1 Corvettes had 4-bolt mains.

Approximately...
2-bolt good to 500hp
4-bolt good to 600hp
splayed 4-bolt good to 700hp

 

Looks like mid later 90's trucks, especially the 2500-3500 series trucks had 4 bolt mains, 1 piece rear main and can be roller. Some apparently dont have provisions, while some may. Some may be drilled but not tapped. Hit or miss it sounds like.

Conversion 2 to splayed 4 is a nice setup for big power. Pricey but worth it if pushing the blocks limits.

 

heres a link i read but its a forum so they can be wrong im sure i read else where
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/archiv...hp/t-7200.html

 

The only similarity between the zz4 and the L98s are the alum 113 heads. ALL L98s are two bolt. Let it go, you obviously don't know what you're talking about. Its pointless to argue over something you don't understand. And finding a thread on a second gen Camaro thread isn't exactly proof that you're right. Quit spreading misinformation.

 

Btw didn't mean for that to sound so rude lol

 

get a 2 bolt main complete engine from a 96-99 truck out of a jyard or Cragslist for about $200-$300. have it machined and clearenced for a stroked crank, and splayed 4bolt mains, and rebuild to your needs. youll get the bonus of vortec heads which flow great for a stock head.

food for thought: stock 2 bolt main caps are generally considered stronger than stock straight 4 bolt mains. the material removed from the internal webbing for the extra 2 bolts made then just a tad weaker(as the theory goes). however 4 bolt splayed mains are WAY stronger. but you need a 2 bolt main cap to start with to convert it to the 4 bolt splayed caps. cant do it with a factory 4 bolt main block.

 

Man dont bother with a 350 if you've got a 305 that's as fast as you claim it is. If your 305 is really fast enough to tackle bolt on LT1's you are gonna end up slower with a 350 with 113 heads.

 

Lol I'm not loking for just a stocker 350 2 put in its a 5-620hp monster 383 I'm bout ready to start be4 I buy me a stroker kit I need a block so I need to know what has what I will just get a l98 I should be able to find 1 on here, mifbody.com, or local C.L. I just need a block and its hard evey1 has pre86 block and I see vortec mortors for cheap and I an just part it out. My 305 might be getting modded out if I can get what I want so I can laugh at ppl when the get killed by a 305 it would just get a head job 125 shot if my cam is not better I will swap out for a zz4 cam or some new pistons so I can raise the c.r. and put zz4/l98 heads on it with HSR or miniram what every witch I have money for looking like 5-7500 for the whole car.

 

If you just need a block, buy one bare from Summit.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-150100/

By the time you pay for the block and machining on a junk yard block (assuming the block you buy is good and not cracked or something) you'll be paying more.

 

thats true. i spent almost $800 at the machine shop having a block worked over.

 

Wow I seen a ZZ4 short block on C.L. for 1200 obo wish I had the money

 

I see a summit block 4.030 for under 700 bucks but its a 4bolt main are these stronger or as strong as splyed

 

4 bolt splayed is WAY stronger, theres debate as to weither 2 or 4 bolt stock mains are stronger. some say 2 bolts are stronger since they have more main webbing material since theres not extra holes in them

 

So they say but a block from smmit rather than make a block to what I won't but I don't see any on summit they are all 4bolt main

 

honestly, i dont think it makes much difference on a street engine.

 

620 whp 595 wtq but it will be streetable 500 hp engine with a procharger I want to run lowb10s like 10.1 10.0 I want to run as fast as I can with out a cage. Here its 9.9

 

I ran a regular 4 bolt block with ARP bolts... 400whp + 150 hp nitrous shot. Seemed to hold fine but I didnt put many miles on it before I sold it all.

basically just like this block
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-150100

 

Yeah this the block I seen but this will be the last engine in it I don't want to rebuild it or replace it I want to build my car to I want it and than ether sell it for or buy a LS 4th gen and put a nasty LS2 or a boosted LS7 a 1000+ hp street able and my son will go to prom or something in it he is 2 now so I have time lol. But u think it can hold 620whp for 5 years or weeked races. I can't wait till this year is out tax time is gonna play a big part with some other cars I have to build if they fal threw u know how that be

 

It should live. My friend has made near 650 whp for a few years on a weak 400 block, and thats using nitrous which is harder on motors than boost.

if in doubt, spend 1000 bucks more and get a SHP Dart block

 

I only see 2pc rear main seal blocks from dart

 

Summit only has 2pc RMS blocks listed for some reason.

But if you go to their website they have an option for a 1 pc RMS block. I just checked it out the other day doing some fantasy builds in my head and I didnt like the idea of having to buy a new flywheel or a conversion flywheel for my T56, so I looked for the 1 pc RMS option - it's there.

http://www.dartheads.com/products/en...ll-blocks.html

Will cost you $77 over base price, though.

 

Damn near 1700 bucks I will pass I would deff do a ls2 swap for that kinda money

 

ls2 swap for $1700....good luck with that one.

 

lsx anything for 1700 would be doing a great job

 

These are aftermarket blocks man. They're NICE. You can bore them out a good ways. Regardless, we are talking about a 400 block without the factory durability and quirkiness issues.

 

Nothing wrong with 2 piece rms by the way. Dart SHP block is like an L98 block except 2 piece rear main seal. If you have to rebuild rotating assembly, might as well get buy a 2pc rms crank...they are more available than 1 pc anyway.

Easilly make a 415-427 sbc in those dart blocks and 500whp all motor. Small 150 shot hits your goal

 

is the dart 2pcs rear block roller cam ready though?

 

Not trying to be disrespectful but this is what I want no spray for the 383 only if I mod my 305. Y'all all know when u have a build in mind u want it all and sacrifice nothing I want 1pc main hyd roller block but I will most likely go with the summit block or if I can find a good used 1 that meet the spec that I want. LS2 swap well LQ4/LQ9 motors are running complete for that and I'm not talking 1700 4 the whole swap my totle cost on the whole cost of my build looking like 10k

 

A used ls1 out of a camaro is bout 1200

 

What do you get for that $1200?

In my mind, an LS1 with anything older than an LS1 transmission is a waste of potential. But, to each his own.

I paid $2k for a dropout Camaro LS1/4L60E with harness & PCM. To that, add mounts, exhaust, hoses, cables, speedometer, tuning, many hours...