Has anyone bought a Remanufactured roller cam? Why would it need to be re-maned? Would is be safe buy? Just never heard of anyone doing that to a camshaft before.

 

my only guess on the "reman" part would be it had some lobe damage and had to be reground. which would lower the lift numbers on it.

thats the only reson i could see someone "remaning" a roller cam.

 

Regrinding doesn't necessarily reduce the lobe lift; in fact, it's just as easy to INCREASE the lift by regrinding, as to REDUCE it or keep it the same.

People get "real" rollers (racing ones) reground all the time... often, specifically to make them BIGGER. Those however are billet steel, not case-hardened cast iron.

If the cam in question is steel then it can be reground. If it's cast, it costs as much to have it re-heat-treated, as to replace the core; therefore not economically sensible. If it's cast and NOT re-hardened, then no it is not a good idea.

The devil is in the details.

 

its too early for me to be trying to think. i was using the though processes that regrinding would make the lobe smaller thereby reducing lift. i didnt even think that you could change the profile to increase the lift.

 

Of course you can... why on earth WOULDN'T you be able to?

Lift is THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN the height of the tip of the lobe, and the height of the "heel". All you gotta do to INCREASE the lift, is grind off some of the back side of the lobe. No-brainer.

As far as that goes, virtually all lobes are designed with the tip absolutely as tall as it can possible be, and still be able to slide the cam through the journals to install it. So if you were to go buy a higher lift cam and set it next to a lower-lift one, odds are the tips of the lobes would be the same height, and the "bigger" cam would look "smaller" because the back side of the lobes is in fact "smaller".

Compare these: which one would you suppose is "bigger"?





Right: the one with the SMALLER lobes; by about .150" of lift.

Note also: the top one was made from a billet of steel, the bottom one is cast.

 

like i said, too early for me to be trying to think. after i stopped and actually turned my brain on, i entirely got what youre saying.

 

 

so regrinding cast cams = bad idea. cheaper to just buy a new one.

 

It is on EBAY and is the GM LT4 cam. I would not know if billet steel or cast.

 

Doesn't sound like anything worth taking the chance on.

 

LT4 cam or LT4 Hot cam
BIG difference

LT4 cam not worth the trouble unless someone gave you one

 

It is already sold. 492 lift / 218/228@50 / 279/289 duration.

 

The ebay cams are 140 bucks.... no way they be billet. Billet cores are like 350+ to do. I've bought 2 of them. Doubt these are re-hardened either.

 

What do u think of a stock lt4 cam with 059 or 520 casting heads in a 305?

 

One thing that nobody seems to be mentioning here is that when you regrind a cam, you end up with a smaller base circle, which requires new pushrods if you want ro retain proper valvetrain geometry. Add another $100 to your cam cost for pushrods. Ao much for that reman cam being a bargain.

 

Runs like a bat out of hell.

 

I bought a reground lt4 "hot cam", where it was reground to a more aggrissive profile and have been driving it every day for almost 2 years now with no problems. If its a roller cam, its not a big deal from what I understand, its the flat tappet applications that you have to worry about proper hardening and such.