It time to start building my 87 IROC. Like most of us I had to wait to tax time to do so I had plans of a 383 efi 500 620 with procharger but that ain't happnin so plan be 305 build. Some of u may remember me from "305 LB9 are slow bull" post and yes eveything I said is true but this will bring more u got your but kicked by a 305.

I will get money in a week or 2 I don't have a garage I stay in a apt but my uncle owes a sop and I can use that I don't want my car there till I'm done (its in the hood) so I will do a lot of the tare down in the lot and I don't have a lot of time I work 2 jobs and a fam.

My plans are to get as much used stuff as I can save save save but
Tie the frame, panhard par, trailing arms, torque arm poly trans mount maybe a wonder bar. Trans a shift kit and a stall I don't know what size and a new filter. Rear end I have a 9bolt 3.27 that I might put new cones in and alm drive shaft. The 305 aft mrk EFI I want a Miniram I might mod a lt1 intake. 22# injectors from a L98 I will use my stock 50mm TB a (hopfully) custom cam, 1.6 rockers, new lifters, hyd lifters, alm hf water pump, new double roller, MSD ign, E3 spark plugs, arp main and rod caps, fully worked heads or 113 heads a tune, ripken tires or 255 50 16 drag radials bf.
I will sell every thing I replace to help keep cost down

To day I tried to take the whole tune port set up off I have it on craigs list for 350 and that's with the whole thing with new gaskets, tb with new gaskets, new o rings, clean to like new. I polished the tb it looks nice oh the tb comes with new TPS.

I have pics but I can't load them may need a wifi connetion I'm doing this off my cell my laptop crashed

 

I took off the right side runner the other its just 1 bolt on the back by the whiper motor. It got cold out so I called it quits for the night. That tpi set up comes with a new adj fuel reg too its a full rebuilt tpi I will do 350 shiped if any 1 wants it 9th injector tpi. Next after that is to take the water pump off and power streering. I have labeled stuff to remember, after that heads I will send them out after 2 weeks if I can't find any 113 cheap enough and I will trade or sell them if I get a offer. Than it will be dead I have to build a nother firebird for 2500 so that will set be back a few weeks but I will have enough to finish my build. After that drive shaft comes off so I can towe it to the shop.

 

Well its been cold so I haven't did much work I got the tool I need to get the other runner off but its been blow 30 so I didn't do anthing. I have been thing about building my 305 cleaning it to like new to sell for the price of the summit 355/383 block for 651 all I will have is 4k for the whole car it will cost me that for the 383. I will just w8 till next year when I have more money and I'm thinking of putting a 150 or 175 on it do y'all think it will hold up. I really want to do the 305 to be the under dog.

 

Got my check so its time to buy parts

 

Well I found some 113 heads for 350 complete picking them up today after work so the old heads will be 4sale I will do a full port job on the tpi if I don't sell it I will reuse it. I have the runners off too.

 

 

Ok it was a little cold today so I just mocked up my heads and intake the 113s are clean was the first time I held alm heads held cast iron heads big w8 diff I will finish porting my plenum at work. I have to take the old heads off still the header bolt on the left side are gonna give me hell. I wonder can I use the old push rods and rockers for now.I don't know how to post pics I get my computer 2morrow

 

Well I didn't do much today and I pulled my lb9 head numbers 14102187 so the intake vale is bigger 1.84 to 1.94 I can't see my block size but sure its a 305 heads are for sale I will do a gasket match port for 200+ shiping. I didn't port much on the plenum I did some to day I need a cut off wheel till than I will do what I can. Slow motion I need a tuner I met this guy at 1 of my jobs said he need 50 bucks to come out to look at my car to know what to do. I told him what I did and gave him my specs he still like I have to come out here....... no u don't have to look at a non running car to do nothing. I'm still waiting on my water pump and injectors. Well I'm letting my tool to charge up than back to porting

 

187's are the boat anchors that were bolted to the O.E. LO3's (305 TBI), LB9's had 081 casting.

305 is not the best platform, but a thirdgen with a healty 300hp 305 is cool anough

 

But my vin says its a LB9 and the casting match site said it was on LB9. Well they will be thrown over bord. I have took pics of the build an parts as I got them but don't know how to post them I'm doing this via cellphone android. As of right now the porting tool I use at home is a dremel 7700 and with full charge its only bout 10mins of usage so slow motion. But its getting along I use a air grinder at work, if I had that at home or the dremel was a good I would have been done I don't have much left on the plenum, after that the base than heads. I want to make them zz4 heads, lt4 spring, and all the other diffs. I got my fuel injectors they are bosch #3 24# mustang cobras they are a 1/4 inch to short I might cut down the bolt towers. Till the snow melts I'm working indoors, so only the heads up is getting worked on. Ls1 brake swap soon as I get my engine back running

 

12 years ago I bought a complete '87 LB9 with the TPI set-up on it. When I pulled it apart, I discovered it had one 187 head and one 081 head. It was bored .030"-over and had dished pistons.

The block casting # was the same for LB9 and LO3. The VIN only means that's what the factory installed. Warranty work or previous-owner replacements can get you most anything.

ZZ4 heads are fine, but they will lower the effective compression on a 305 (remember, the factory used 64cc iron heads and 58cc aluminum heads on the TPI 350's).

Oh, the LB9 block also had cracks in the lifter valley from the block freezing (from inadequate antifreeze), which is probably why the engine got rebuilt, and when the wrong head and pistons were installed.

 

Looks like no cracks and the casting is the same per head. Zz4 113 heads has the same compression chamber 58cc so no lost in compression.

I took 1 head off (driver side) looks good. Have to take off the other head and I'm bout done

 

You aren't understanding the concept. Aluminum loses more heat than iron, so you need a higher static CR with aluminum heads than you do with iron heads. 58cc 305 iron heads will make more power all other things being equal than 58cc 305 aluminum heads.

 

This is true...the aluminum acts as a heat sink and lets more heat escape the combustion chamber...therefore making less power...if you are going with aluminum heads to make the same power on the same setup you will have to raise the static compression ratio. Thats like cylinder head 101 lol.

 

Well what should I do thinner head gaskets, I'm not buying new pistions (weld a penny to them boys lol j/k) I know big cams bleed off compresion didn't know about aln heads. The 305 is just to hold me over till I get the 383 in. Well what should I do.

 

Work is picking back up and its getting colder outside I will see if the let me finish at my job but I still need a tune I'm not good at that stuff even on forza and nfs underground 2. So I will take offers. I got me some ls1 calipers for 30 and I picking some up for 25 next week. I still need new push rods what size idk, egr block off plate, and some rollor rockers

 

Got some new parts today wish a had a follower to post my pics. Got some new weld in umi sfc and torque arm set me back 500 and I will be picking up a hsr hope I can drop into the low 13s like 13.2

 

Open up a photobucket account and link your pictures from there to here.

 

I don't have internet no more using my smart phone

 

Then you have internet if youre on a smart phone.

Smart phones work like computers. If its an android or iphone, theres even a photobucket APP.

 

Use thin head gaskets for now, accept the compromise. Save the heads for the 383 build, address compression with it with dished pistons.

 

I got reg felpro head gaskets and I will use diff heads for the 383 not weak 113s I'm dressing it up the 305 so I can sell it l8r I'm getting a hsr 2morrow

 

Can this be switched to alt efi port. Hsr 2 morrow and founders lcr and panhard bar. Who has cheap ls1 brackets. I also I picked up some used 1.52 comp cam rollor rockers, arp bolts, and studs for 70 bucks yeah. Looking to get a cam from a member from here sniper30cal I think its his name. Hsr should he here Monday. I think I might get 300 rwhp. I also popped out all the valves and hit the wit a wire wheel to knock off the carbon this its the first car rebuild I did on a sbc wish me luck

 

Here are some pics

 

More

 

A roller cam, shure is no luxury for a performer 305.
Looking forward to see what results you will have, with a flat tapped cam.

 

Its a rollor motor

 

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...t/viewall.html



I have seen CRACKED 113 heads do 12s in a 305. I wouldnt sweat it AT ALL. Compression ratio is compression ratio. Period.

 

Not the one in your pics https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...6-22.49.02.jpg

 

Well its a hyd rollor cam with hyd flat tap lifters

 

Got my hsr and I put 1 head on torqued it to corvette spec. I can't find my retainer for 1 of my valves so its a hold on 1 I'm not getting a cam right now but I will get it tuned to the cam that I want a zz4 cam I found 1 for 165 but I will see if I have enough money I still need tires. For the trans I will go with a shift improver. I'm looking for a stall to for cheap like 1800 2k stall for under 100 used. I also will get a vette servo and a kick down kit so I don't have to let the rpms drop to **** into 4th. For the fuel lines idn should I use fuel lines with hose clamps or a custom fitted 1. Also timing I never did that be for I seen how its done and its a few vids on how to do it and I have a book. I have no clue what cam is in here but I'm sure its not a zz4 so it must be smaller u can hear it alittle compaired to a stock car.

 

The head thing alm vs iron from my reading that's a old wifes tale so 113 goes on

 

That does not make it a roller block.
Roller cam with flat tapped lifters doesen't sound like a good set up, the lifters will not spin ...
But you can set up for retro fit roller lifters http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...cam/index.html

 

I know and was going to buy some but with the adv price 300 I just will wait with the new cam prob do it in the summer. Saw a hsr for 350 complete in the ads got mine for 500 for intake and rails I'm mad 150 would been my cam and I would had to shell out the money for the retro fits speaking of retros I should sell my 10s jordans never put them on just don't like the color even thoe its my fave color. Well I poped 1 head on last night put the other 1 on as I was torquing the heads ricky (really big ratcoon) runs out to hold my light. I ran in the house can called it a night. Not a good night.

 

I think you may have figured it out... But you cannot in any way whatsoever use a roller cam with flat tappet lifters.

To go to a roller cam you need to get a new timing chain cover and get a retrofit roller cam. You cant use a factory cam due to a lack of effective methods to control cam walk with one. The retrofit cams use a larger bolt spacing for the timing gear and you have room to install a cam button.

To convert to a roller cam you need the following:
1.Stronger valve springs
2.New pushrods (measure to fit)
3.Stronger timing chain cover
4.Cam button
5.Roller cam
6.Retrofit roller lifters

 

Well the casting # says it is just have hyd flat lifters but I will keep in mind what u said. Rollor cams have rollor bearings right.

Ok sent payment to pcmforless.com and will get it back in a few days also my panhard bar and LCA's from founders they look kool, I went with red. My UMI SFC and torque arm has not came yet I ordered it on feb 28 so its be over a week do they take long always. Has some fitment probs with the hsr in the back where the oil thingy is on the block by the dizzy hole just a bit of grinding and the whole top end will be button up. Next fuel lines

 

You really need to read this:

https://www.thirdgen.org/sbc-camshafts-primer

I dont care what the casting number says, thats not a roller block. That's a flat tappet block. No way around that. You are using a flat tappet cam with flat tappet lifters unless you spend the nearly $1k to convert everything over.

This is your car:


This is a roller block:


This is what a roller block without the factory spider/dogbones looks like:





This is what roller lifters in a flat tappet block look like:


You cannot mix and match cams. Flat tappet lifters go with flat tappet cams. Roller lifters go with roller cams. Hydraulic lifter cams are different from solid lifter cams. Mixing and matching will result is catatstrophic failure.

 

I know the diff in them and I am keeping the cam and lifters in that was in b4 so I'm safe

 

Today I got a few thing started an done. Intake is on but will come back off the vally gasket popped out. Put my panhard bar on most of the electrical is hooked up all that's left is fuel lines the dizzy and I'm done oh I have to put on my headers on and brakes

 

thanks i was lookin for that cam post i couldnt find it any where

 

Pulled it to work 15 miles I got the panhard bar and lcas on too with the poly trans mount I didn't know my car had a wonder bar. Intake is all on its time for timing. All that's left is fuel lines, plug everything back up and top rad hose

 

Updates...?

 

Sorry alots been done but no start I have a few probs 1 I foregot how to mount up my power strerng pump 2 I need a new bracket for my alt. 3 hood don't clear the hsr 4 not enough room to turn the dizzy so I can set the timing. I have pics

 

Post up pictures of the brackets and I will show you...

Why? Cut the one you already have like this...



Cut/trim the bracing under the hood where the HSR sits, then stitch weld the bracing down...

Pull the dizzy out, turn the oil pump a half a turn with a long screwdriver, then re-install...

Post them up...

 

 

Is this right tdc com #1

 

I myself usually have number one facing a little more towards the driver side than where yours is facing (moved about an inch more), but as long as your rotor is on number one when it's supposed to be you can essentially have number one facing any direction you want it to be...

 

holy cow, you shoulda at least port matched the intake to the heads. i can see straight down the runner and see a good 1/8" of gasket blocking flow. and yeah i always have the rotor pointing a "**** hair" to the driver side like street lethal said. and you may wanna junk that FPR, heard nothing but bad things about them. get kirban

 

I was going t gasket match it but its a 305 its only going to suck up so much air and I'm sure the heads and intake flow more than the hp I'm getting. I feel it would be a waste of time its just a cheap 305 build. I never had a prob with felpro head gaskets in a non hi performance engine it will hold up. I'm just looking for a low 13s dd

 

And that's a 1205 gasket