evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Everywhere I look I see people saying I need to get my heads worked on so i can run a bigger cam, but what all do I need done? Iv read somewhere I can use beehive springs so I want to run those and iv read that I need a 30 degree backcut on my valves but what else do I need to have done? I'm going to port them myself to help increase the flow so that's out of the question.

3rdgenmaro

iTrader: (9)

Any good machine shop will know exactly what to do to them.

Basically, have them do the basics, magnaflux, clean, 3 angle valve job. Cut the guides down, install screw in studs.

Take your time and do your research before you port yourself. Especially with vortecs. You can mess them up easier then you can fix them. Ive even seen where a lot of people wont port stock vortecs. They clean them up alittle, do a bit of a bowl blend, and leave them at that. Just something to look into.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

how much power you looking to make. Box stock vortecs will make a good bit of power. With a good valve job, bowl blend around the valve seat, and maybe a cartridge roll around the ports to clean up any casting flash will make a good bit more power and you havent touched anything major in the ports yet. Thats as far as i'd go....if you need more power then I'd probably just buy the GM bowtie larger port vortecs if I had to use a iron vortec head.

But if you had the cash i've seen a 550+hp 383 with extensively modded vortec heads. So they can be done right if the person knows what they are doing. If you dont know what you are doing, then you can easily hurt the port. Porting right usually requires a flow bench and some pitot tubes to measure velocities in the port. If you dont use these you cant tell what areas of the port need work and what doesnt. No way to document your changes.


For more lift in a performance application i'd have the head studs pulled out and get them drilled/tapped for quality screw in studs. machine the guide bosses down to allow more retainer to valve guide boss/seal clearance...this is where you gain more lift.

Then you can run any spring combination you want, doesnt have to be a beehive, although beehives can work nicely in some applications.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Should I get new valves?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

If the old ones are straight and nothing wrong with them, just clean them up and valve-job them and reuse.

CAMAROSKI

Check this post
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/afte...ec-spring.html
and also check 3rdgenmaro posts about vortec swap.There is a lot of good info.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Although the spring swap kit will give you more lift, you still run risk of pulling studs out with a healthy set of springs for a new cam. If going hyd roller, they need more presure and generally are more aggressive so they can pull the studs out if your not careful. Especially turning more rpm. Flat tappet may have a better chance at surviving but then again still could pull studs.

I'd get heads machined for screw in studs

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Anyone know what screw in studs normally cost? So far to get my heads hot tanked and pressure tested its only $35 so iv got some room to expand. If you guys could post prices on what you think everything will cost I'll appreciate it greatly. Doesn't have to be dead on just a range.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

would these be best?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VORTEC-VALVE...item4844d7c0fd

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

and how will i know which valve seals to get and should i get hardened pushrods?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I think i was quoted 100-130 bucks for screw in studs on a pair of heads. Just for the drilling/tapping of the heads.. Its well worth it

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

my block has a roller cam in it so im going with another roller cam, and im going to have new screw in studs done while they are at the machine shop along with my valve job, but after i buy this kit and get that work done will i need anything else besides the screw in studs, valve guides, and that kit?

CAMAROSKI

You'll be ready to go (install heads). Check post #19 from the link above i my earlier post there is some pricing I have been quoted for vortec head job.I think you can order from same place matching valve seals and stainless steel valves too.I going to contact him to make sure i can get all from one place.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

yes im dealing with alex now to figure out what all i need to do and get from him. the heads should be going to the shop along with my block and crank and possible pistons to get tanked and the heads are getting worked on. Should i get my heads pressure tested?

CAMAROSKI

Here some more helpful info on vortecs

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...ortec-lt4.html

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...7l-vortec.html

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

That should be everything...springs/retainers, valve job, valve stem seals, screw in studs. Should be good to go.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Do I need the screw on studs with the hotcam?

355sleeper

iTrader: (4)

my machinist told me not to waste my money on screw in studs until i was closer to the .550 mark.
i even asked him to pin the studs and he said it wasnt necessary. i think you will be fine without the screw in studs

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Thats a touchy subject.... I would do them but you can take the chance. YOu could pin them yourself with a drill bit and a pin kit if you dont wanna pay for the machine work but honestly think its a great investment.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Think the hotcams list is like 490 if I think I'm right. Another question is what will my valve job do?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Valve job helps with air flow. Depending on the angle of cuts, you can improve air flow in various spots, either low lift, or mid lift or even highlift. All depends on what you are shooting for but improving flow all over is a good thing on those heads.

3rdgenmaro

iTrader: (9)

I would have the screw in studs installed. The ONLY reason I didnt was because the heads were already installed and I went the quick and easy route.

I havent had any problems. I know of several others that are running those lifts without issue. Screw-in-studs at those levels are just good insurance. You would hate to do all the machine work, go through the install, and 2k miles down the road one of your studs start to pull.