I have a 87 IROC. Came with a 305 TPI The car now has a 5.7L out of a 91 Corvette. If you have this swap please let me know

 

The Corvette L98 was pretty similar to ours. It came with aluminum heads. Maybe different camshaft?

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...-f-body-v.html

I'm also guessing it's speed density since f-bodies got those '90 and on.

I guess what exactly is your question?

 

I, and when I mean "I" i mean me and a mechanic shop cant get long tubes on the car. I tried Heddman....then the shop tried....then i bought Hookers. Im beyond pissed and frustrated

 

Should bolt in just like that, dimensionally exactly the same apart from agle plugs vs straight and I have angle plugs on 2 of my irocs and the headers fit just fine.

To get long tubes in you may have to jack up the engine a bit depends on how worn your engine mounts are and maybe the tolerances on those headers. I'm guessing they are hitting the K member? Might need to notch it a little

 

hedmans need the a-arm perch trimmed on the driver's side if i recall correctly, and number 3 primary needs a dimple where it passes the k-member. i can't speak for the hookers as i've never use them. i had a set of 113s on a 305 and a 350 and dimensionally identical to your swap.

 

I bought new motor mounts. Didn't fix the problem. This shop has huge lifts like most shops.

 

where is it hitting? hedmans have to go in from the bottom also. if you have the stock humongous starter, it will need to be taken out to get the header in the whole, and then the header and starter will need to be mounted at the same time.

 

did you read this sticky on hooker 2210's install by chance?

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...oker-long.html

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...oker-long.html

Perhaps this will help with the Hookers.

 

Lol, got me Matt.

 

I just read that and took notes. Will call the shop and tell them about what I read. I will say this. I hear all the time on this board how "easy" it was for so-and-so to install their headers. I think yall are all full of ****. I installed some on my LS1 car before and there were some issues but this is just ridiculous. A brand new part, made for a car shouldn't have all these kinds of issues. people claiming how "easy" it was just reminds me how people on the internet will say whatever to make them look good

thanks for the link

 

um....it was "easy" for me...

you never answered my question: where are they giving you a hard time?

"bolt-on's" never are man...

 

+1

 

Im not sure because i haven't worked on the car in over 3 weeks. I work 75 miles from my home and only go there on weekends. They're closed on weekends. Im guessing the primaries. not sure

 

Maybe the people at this "shop" you're having install them, well, just suck ?

 

the Hedman long tubes slid right into my car from the bottom without lifting the engine off the mounts, but i did have to ding one tube on each side to clear something on the frame and but that only took a few minutes.. they were probably the easiest install i've ever done of brand new headers fresh out of the box. my car is a factory non AC car, and i did them without the oil filter or starter installed. but there was a ton of room for the HD starter i originally put in there, and the LT4 mini starter looks absolutely tiny in that huge gap. the big K&N oil filter i'm running isn't even close to the headers.

 

I've had my hooker long tubes on and off a few times. Driverside from the top. Passenger side from the bottom rotated in and bolt starter in after. Passenger side collector merge hit barely on the K member A arm mounting flange. Which appeared to be a common issue as the eBay set of headers were already dented there. I used an angle grinder and knocked a tad off to get clearance. Now that I've switched to a tubular doesn't appear to be an issue at all.

Normally issues with bolt-ons it comes back to the car being tweaked slightly from normal use over the years or other parts are causing issues. Big thing with the headers is to remove spark plugs, starter, any other sensor wiring that might be in the way, and try to install them like stated in the threads.

Frankly I can't stand most shops. Prices around here are crazy. $500 for 3800 series intake gasket job when I can do it in under 3 hours with $80 of parts. 2-3 hours for a transmission cooler install. $300 labor for a heater core install. Even when I have most of them work on stuff I end up having to take it back apart anyway and fix or correct something they've messed up so I've basically given up on shops for most issues.

Why are you going long tubes?

Normally from what I've read the differences between shorties and long tubes are around 5 HP difference until either large cubic inches, power output increases, or high RPM. Then at that point you have to decide is it worth the headache. I've rebuilt the Mufflex Y pipe already once and still not happy with the fitment. It's just a pain to get long tubes with Y pipes around a 700-R4 with Spohn Crossmember mounted torque arm. Don't get me wrong long tubes look and perform great once in it's just like putting 10 lbs of crap in a 5 lb bag.

 

Thats funny.