Have a 99 roller L31 ls6 valve springs, ls6 retainers, ls6 keepers, 1.5 and 1.6 roller rockers, lt4 hotcam .525/.525, longtube headers, port and polished heads, and a 850 double pumper. I was wondering what kind of power numbers I should be looking around and if you guys have some tips on the l31 this is my first build.

 

Should be around 400 crank.

 

You've left out a few keys bits of information but Vortec/Hot cam combinations should be in the 400 chp as noted above.
As for seeking advice on your first build:
Daily driver/weekend warrior or race car? It'll make a difference in your approach.
Is the engine a running engine or has it just been freshly assembled? Has it been swapped into your car already?

 

Also, if you're running the LT4 hot cam kit make sure you have adequate rocker arm to valve keeper clearance and don't run guides plates with the kit because the rockers are self aligning.

 

SCR/DCR/quench numbers??.Cam-SCR compatibility?.Long tube headers??.

 

It's gonna be my weekend car and the motors out I'm gonna rebuild it, completely fresh And what bits of info do you mean?

 

Wasn't planning in it I'm just doing rollers 1.5 intake 1.6 exhaust. Everyone seems to say that's the way to go.

 

If it was a running engine before, then the vital clearences should have been checked. One of the replies referred to the valve guide/retainer clearence. Very important with stock Vortec heads to check this. Another thing to consider is the pushrod guide. It's been pointed out was that Vortecs use a self-guiding rocker arm. That's ok however when you get into lifts beyond .500", it's important to check for binding where the pushrod passes through the head.
Keep in mind that it's easier to ruin a set of Vortec heads with a "port and polish" job than it is to make them better. This is especially true if you decide to move up to a 2.02/1.60 valve size. Box stock Vortecs are morem than capablem of supporting 400 hp without the need to work them over.
As for key bits of information, also pointed out were your targeted compression ratio and piston to head clearence. To get a reasonable hp estimate, these are things that are thrown into the mix. As far as components go, you haven't mentioned what intake you intend to run. Arguably, one of the dual plane air-gap styles seems to get the job done.
Then there things like ignition and exhaust past the headers. These will all need to be considered.

 

Read and understand what I am asking before you plan anything.

 

I'm using stock valves. But the ignition I'm not sure of yet I'm thinking about using e3.62 plugs, 8mm accel wires, and just a duralast hei dizzy. As for exhaust I want to run longtubes to 2 1/2 pipes, dual 24" glass packs, an x-pipe to dual super 44's. For the intake I might just go with a 7516 edelbrock.

 

For a street use there isn't a single reason why to use a 1.6 rocker.It's a band-aid approach to "try" to fix a wrong cam choice to begin with.By far good choices in a cam is the proper way of going about it.And one the does not have the potential of valve train issues.

Guys make this mistake all the time to copy race car approaches where we are just trying to pick up some time.The differences on the street really aren't worth the problems.And anyone who tells you the "seat of the pants" dyno is huge,is full of it.

 

The LT4 Hotcam was designed for 1.6:1 rockers.

Last time I checked, LS6 retainers and keepers won't work on L31 Vortec valves. But, it's been a couple of years, so my memory may be faulty.

3 years, actually...

 

Not sure about those plugs. I've used (and am still using) AC Delco R44LTS. Never had a problem with those and the Vortecs.
A decent dual exhaust is always a good idea. I've got drag strip data that shows the difference between running with a single 40 series Flowmaster (in the stock location) vs uncapping the exhaust just before the muffler.
An HEI is never a bad choice. Make sure you run a quality module and don't forget the vacuum advance. Pay attention to your spark curve.
The 7516 Edelbrock is probably the best manifold going for your build. There may be some problems with hood clearence though.

 

Same with the cam I'm running. Designed to be used with 1.6 rockers.
That said, sometimes it's just the way the build goes. There's a given cam available and for whatever reason, moving up to a higher ratio rocker makes the fit that much better. It seems to be popular among the Vortec crowd too as they (we) compensate for the poor exhaust port (when compared to the intake). Of course in a perfect world, you could order exactly the cam you want and not have to deal with the higher ratio rtocker and the problems they might cause.

 

That one I can't comment on. I went straight to the Comp 26918 Beehive springs, retainers and keepers.

 

Comp's website list 3 different titanium and 5 different steel retainers for their 26918 springs.

 

For the record:
761 Chrysler
774 GM Gen III
783 for larger spring (1.215" vs 1.055"). No idea why it's listed for a 26918.
787 Non Gen III applications (Bingo!)
795 10 degree locks
1787 tool steel ($$$)

I've excluded the Ti parts.

 

Not a idealist.Find it hard to believe you can't find a shelf cam.Maybe it's just a matter of a limited search.But I'll play along and tell you there are more cam companies than you can count who would do a grind to whatever you need.

 

I may be wrong, but I don't think the OP wasn't asking for a cam recommendation. He already has the cam and stuff, and is asking what kind of power the combo will make.

My point is if his list is what he has, it won't all work together.

And, I wouldn't go 1.5:1 on the intakes - once again, the Hot Cam was intended for use with 1.6:1 on both sides.

 

I'm kinda taking a chance on the plugs I wanna see if there actually a good plug I was originally gonna go with those delcos though lol and I need good advice on a module.

 

We'll I've seen a few builds where people said they had no problems running 1.5 on intake I guess I kind of just jumped on that one. And I haven't purchased all the parts this is just my shopping list. Please feel free too give advice on things that might not word or things I'm missing.

 

I stand corrected.That being the case,I suggest what 57 said is the way to go.Thanks for that.

 

Okay, sounds like I was wrong.

If that is your shopping list, do you have any of it yet?

 

I can tell you what it takes to make about 400 hp (judging by a 12.7 second time slip in a 3700 car). This was my old engine spec.
670 Holley vac sec carb.
RPM Air Gap intake.
Vortec heads modified for screw-in studs, guide plates, push rod holes enlarged. No porting or polishing.
Comp XR276HR cam (installed straight up).
Comp 1.6 full roller rockers.
.030" over 350 block with cast crank (polished), stock rods with ARP bolts, Speed-Pro hypereutectic flat top pistons.
Static compression ratio, 10:1. Dynamic compression ratio, 8.1:1.
1 5/8" mid length headers w/ 3" collector into a single 3" cat-back exhaust.
Mallory distributor w/MSD 6AL ignition box.
Timing: 16 initial, 18 mechanical. All in by 3000 rpm. Vacuum advance.
That 86 IROC ran 12.7 @ 107 (all day, any day) with a 700R4, 10" converter and a 3.27 rear gear and DOT slicks. Got well over 20 mpg hiway too.
There are as many options for building a Vortec 350 as there are people offering advice.
Pay attention, do your reasearch, ask questions and you shouldn't have any trouble repeating what I've done.

 

Only the springs seals and I'm about to get welded pushrods next week. I just now put my parts list together before I started the thread. I have the motor apart and I'm cleaning it getting ready to port and polish. I'm gonna clean and reuse the valves. I wanted second opinion on my thoughts. Haven't decided the lift on the cam the hotcams I've came across come in .525 and .496 I want the .525 obviously but I wanna make sure I don't run in to bind issues

 

Thank you very much it seems like mostly everyone here wants to just shut me down lol but I'm not gonna bore or stroke it at all I'm just doing headwork and exhaust. After I get comfortable with my setup I'm gonna try to opt for some nice pistons and maybe an 8pack but I'm gonna keep the original bore and stroke and see where that gets me. As for the trans Im planning on a th350 with a shift kit and possibly a hammer shifter depending on how broke I am when that time comes lol but I have not decided on a torque converter I've heard good things about a stock s10 converter but that might be one of those things I'll actually spend money on, a nice torque converter with around a 2500 stall.

 

Plenty of builds have been around a "junkyard" L31 with satisfying results.
I'm sure you'll be fine provided you don't make any fundamental errors with the components you're selecting or the actual assembly.
Be advised, if you're contemplating doing the head work yourself, that is, the porting and polishing, it's very easy to ruin a Vortec head. I suppose the same can be said for any head however the Vortec intake is pretty good all on it's own. The exhaust, maybe not so much. It's a decent performer right out of the box and about the only thing that needs to be addressed are the valve springs and the pressed in studs. Examine the self guiding rockers vs guide plates. It's a toss up but you'll have to make the choice and select components or get machining done accordingly.You could go for the full porting deal but paying someone to really work them over is probably a 2nd choice compared to investing in heads that are better already.
Think over your cam selection. Determine your compression ratio and work your cam choice around that. If you're fixed on a cam already, have your compression to match what the cam wants. Here's a link to an excellent paper on what you should be trying to do.
http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html
The LT4 cam is quite dated and for the same duration numbers, you can get a modern profile with "more area under the curve" for a given lift. Be advised that the OEM roller lifters are RPM limited to around 6000. Past that they start to distort and bleed off pressure and the results can be messy. The LT4 cam, or those similar, have peak HP in or around the 5500 rpm range so a 6000 rpm red-line will be OK.
Make sure the exhaust breathes. Either duals or a high flowing single muffler will make a difference.
If you're at all interested in fuel economy, you may want to consider a 700R4 with it's over-drive and lock-up converter. From purely a drag racing perspective, it's wide split between 1st and 2nd gear doesn't make for the best 1/4 mile times but that extra low 1st gear helps with the launch and lets you keep a highway friendly rear gear. Between the OD, lock-up converter and the lower rear gear, it's all in the MPG.

 

Ok the reason for the th350 for me is that it's vacuum not electronic but how do I actually wire in a 700r4 or is is it a straight plug in since I already have one but it's on my 2.8

 

The V6 700R's are not the same as A V8.The V8 700R's have tougher clutches for one thing and I'm sure if the 60 degree V6's don't have the same bolt pattern as the V8's.

 

That's why I said can I just swap a new one straight in and plug it in to the existing wiring..

 

The short answer is...possibly.
The question is: was this engine already installed and running in this chassis at some point? If it wasn't, then there are a few wiring issues to work through and the transmission TCC is one of them.

 

No it has never been in the vehicle by 700r4 I mean my preexisting One but it's a v6 so I will have to wire in a new 700 but I'm most likely go with a th350 and it will be better cause I can find them for a little cheaper an in abundance where I am. Like I said it's my first build I'm gonna keep it simple and clean.

 

Going to a TH350 will present it's own challenges. You'll need to source a torque arm mount. Either one of the aftermarket parts or move the mount from the transmission tailshaft to the crossmember. A new driveshaft will be needed too as the TH350 is shorter than the 700. That's not as much of a issue really considering you'll need a driveshaft anyway going from the V6 to a V8.
If you decide to keep the 700, the wiring is relatively simple. No computer needed. Just a few switches (vacuum and brake light) and a couple of connections.

 

Wow I thought it would be a little more thAn that I might just use a 700 but as for the driveshafts I was looking for a forth gen aluminum is it worth it? Will it fit maybe

 

850cfm is too much carb, I would recomeend no more than a 680 Vacuum Secondary. Providing someone did a good job with the heads and it is properly tuned I would say 400 HP and 425 TQ to the flywheel.

 

Wow really? Thank you lol