I just finished a 305tbi to 350 carb swap in my 88 ttop sc. After finally getting it fired up I noticed it had a loud tapping noise coming from driver side valve cover I shut it off and took of valve cover and noticed a rocker arm stud pulled out a little and I could take rocker of push rod it was that loose. Ok is this bad news that the motor is no good it's a 5.7 350 out a 92 Silverado stock far as I know but I did notice some push rods have been replaced some rockers were loose that a friend I had helping me with swap tighten down and adjusted them what could be going wrong I have pulled the rocker stud out already can this be an easy fix or should I **** can the motor . Edelbrock 600 carb dual intake pro former 65k hei dizzy

 

Well...just heads, what are the numbers on them?...They may be worth saving, might be door stops...but easy enough to put screw in studs, but I've never done it with heads on the engine...afraid of metal shavings, you know?

Have an idea on the milage of the engine?

 

Not sure of the mileage my guess is around 150000 I never got around to doing a compression test other than when I got a reading on #1 cyclinder 127 and I quit after battery died and never tested it agine. 14102193

 

Toss'em...find a set of usable decent heads. them swirl port heads are not worth putting money or time into.

 

I wouldn't say the engine is a waste. If it's just a rocker stud, pushrods that's cheap and easy to repair.

I would not recommend trying to fix the stud with heads on engine. Too much risk for metal to get into your engine.

Pull the head off and if you want just the 1 stud replaced a machine shop will do that for $25-35 bucks easy. They will drill and tap head on that one stud boss and install a shoulderless screw in stud.

No stock or mild cam will cause studs to pull out. You are safe to at least .470" lift before even worrying about that. So I don't think it's the cam causing the pulled stud. I have seen stock heads where 1 or 2 studs breaks or just works loose over time.

Now next question is.. Do you fix that head or do you just upgrade heads to something that will make more power?

Also keep in mind some of the rockers will be loose and some will be tight. That's how the engine works.

Do not over tighten the rockers. Over tightening will cause your valves to hang open, can lead to bend pushrods, lifter damage, cam damage, rocker stud damage, etc

Here's a really good valve adjustment how to http://www.centuryperformance.com/va...procedure.html

 

+1

IMO the only time you should put into them is the time it takes to pull them off for replacement.

 

I done some digging and found a set of rebuilt 93 350 heads for 275 dollars ok will it be cheaper to fix the stud or just replace both heads with the new and what would be an estimate a shop will charge to do the work or can I do it with out pulling the engine This is my daily driver so I'm pretty much up against a wall far as cash goes lol

 

Here's the deal...if you've never changed heads, my guess is you've never adjusted the valves either...so...even if you were to pull the head, you'd need a shop to set it up for you...back to basics...what is the casting number on the heads you are looking at?

And no, the engine does not need to be pulled...

The intake (and everything above it) as well as the exhaust, needs to come off..well, exhaust just remove bolts to be able to pull the heads.

 

As far as an estimate, I'd suggest you just call around...a carb'ed or TBI car...I'd venture 6-7 hours...add 4-6 hours for a TPI car

 

Now...I'll tell you the "back yard" way to do it...

Get a helper who can hold a shop vac...not a vacuum cleaner, but a good shop vac..

Get a stud remover tool, and pull the old stud...oe get creative with a stack of washers and a non-rocker nut...just a regular nut, and pull the stud.

Now go get the next size drill and tap needed...might be 3/8th and a 3/8the tap.

Grease the drill bit...(yes I know, counter productive) and slowly feed the bit with low RPMs...probaby use a good 1/2 drill motor.

While you are doing that, have your shopvac buddy be vacuuming all around the edges where you'r drill...after a 1/4inch or so...pull the bit up and out, wipe the shavings off on a rag, re grease the bit...and start again...

With your new stud handy, measure how far the threaded portion is...wrap some tape a tad higher, maybe 1/8th inch or so...to allow a decent hole.

Now, get the tap out...grease the tap...yep, to hold the threads being cut...turn in about 3/4 of a turn...back it out...clean, re grease, stat again...repeat the process till you have fully threaded the hole...IF you hit the end, or notiv\ce that when you put the new stud in it does not fully go down, then you'll have to get a bottoming tap...start the greasing the tap thing...note though,..you won't stat cutting threads until you're an inch or dso into the hole, where a starting tap leaves it taper...then stat with e the 3/4 turn...clean, grease, repeat thing.

Do I advocate this?

No.

Have I done similar things like this to save time and money.

Yes.