Pro vs Cons LS or L98, LT1
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Car: 1992 Chevrolet Camaro Iroc-z
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Pro vs Cons LS or L98, LT1
I have no clue where to start... So any of you guys out there feel like sharing what you like and dislike about your set ups?
Last edited by RicerEater; Feb 14, 2015 at 12:39 AM. Reason: Timelime
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From: Pittsburgh PA
Car: 89 Iroc-z
Engine: 555 BBC Turbo
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Re: Pro vs Cons LS or LB9
Ls motor vs 305 lb9?
I dont see any pros to keepin the 305 unless you want an all original numbers matching car.
I dont see any pros to keepin the 305 unless you want an all original numbers matching car.
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Car: 1992 Chevrolet Camaro Iroc-z
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Re: Pro vs Cons LS, L98, LS1 or older SBC 350
5.7... lb9...*cough* the boat anchor still haunts me... um I mean L98, LT1 so forth
Last edited by RicerEater; Feb 13, 2015 at 12:31 PM.
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Re: Pro vs Cons LS or LB9
Can't think of ANY "pro" features of LB9 except pure unadulterated unvarnished LAZINESS.
Now if that describes YOU, .... then, ... I'm NOT sorry.
If on the other hand you have more of a bit of the spark that sets higher life forms apart from ... other .... things ... like amoebae and paramecia and bacteria, then, .... we can talk about it.
Now if that describes YOU, .... then, ... I'm NOT sorry.
If on the other hand you have more of a bit of the spark that sets higher life forms apart from ... other .... things ... like amoebae and paramecia and bacteria, then, .... we can talk about it.
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From: Charlotte NC
Car: 1992 Chevrolet Camaro Iroc-z
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T5 T56 needs rebuild
Axle/Gears: 2.77 POSI with Disc brakes 9 bolt
Re: Pro vs Cons LS or L98, LT1
Time is money I have no real goals except getting a T56 and something not a 305 in it.
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From: Milwaukee
Car: 92 Firebird, 77 Trans Am SE, 86 Z28
Engine: 5.7 HSR, T/A 6.6, empty
Transmission: T-5, TH350, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 posi, 3.23 posi, 3.23
Why do any changes without a goal? If money isn't a big factor, just find a hot gen 4 with a t56. No point in thinking about a gen 1 in that case.
Pros to a L98, lotsa low speed power. Easier to swap in.
Cons to a L98, every LS is going to be faster with the proper drive train.
The only real cons to a LS are cost and not direct drop in. But these days every part is available to swap one in.
Pros to a L98, lotsa low speed power. Easier to swap in.
Cons to a L98, every LS is going to be faster with the proper drive train.
The only real cons to a LS are cost and not direct drop in. But these days every part is available to swap one in.
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LT1 Pro
- Bolts in the same as a Gen I SBC (mounts, exhaust)
LT1 Con
- Must use a T56 from an LT1 (related only to your T56 remark)
- vs. an LS1, same level of effort to wire in, hook up (cooling, etc.)
- Bolts in the same as a Gen I SBC (mounts, exhaust)
LT1 Con
- Must use a T56 from an LT1 (related only to your T56 remark)
- vs. an LS1, same level of effort to wire in, hook up (cooling, etc.)
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Re: Pro vs Cons LS or L98, LT1
Imo go ls, I went with a gen I the first time and I just wasn't happy. As far as the swap goes it's pretty straight forward and more than enough help on the swap board.
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Car: 1992 Chevrolet Camaro Iroc-z
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Re: Pro vs Cons LS or L98, LT1
I see people really like there LS's
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From: Milwaukee
Car: 92 Firebird, 77 Trans Am SE, 86 Z28
Engine: 5.7 HSR, T/A 6.6, empty
Transmission: T-5, TH350, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 posi, 3.23 posi, 3.23
Don't get me wrong, my tpi is great and is an excellent low rpm freeway cruiser. I have zero plans to change that. Plus my LT1 is my all time favorite engine. But my bone stock, weenie cammed 5.3 in my 2wd Sierra will keep up with both. A hot cammed 6.0 would make a fantastic all around thirdgen with little effort.
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From: Charlotte NC
Car: 1992 Chevrolet Camaro Iroc-z
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Transmission: T5 T56 needs rebuild
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Re: Pro vs Cons LS or L98, LT1
Ok so been skimming through old forums and such and I see a lot about power this and so forth. And its a DD. What about drive ability I mean weight difference with Iron block and stock K member and aluminum block. I am sure that changes the drivability extremely. So what about things like the noise is it quieter with LS style exhaust? What are some major difference's with handling. Carbed, uncarbed. Any engine can make power and mine will for sure. LSX is just over kill to me. I am not looking for a 8 second car but I would love to get close to it.
Re: Pro vs Cons LS or L98, LT1
All LSx conversions drastically reduce the front end weight. Ride height will have to be adjusted and the front suspension realigned. Not all LSx conversions are fire-breathing monsters, although they can be
Sound is comparable to SBCs and LT1s with a similar size cam. LSx have a different firing order so the sound is a bit different
Sound is comparable to SBCs and LT1s with a similar size cam. LSx have a different firing order so the sound is a bit different
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Car: 92 Firebird, 77 Trans Am SE, 86 Z28
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Transmission: T-5, TH350, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 posi, 3.23 posi, 3.23
Re: Pro vs Cons LS or L98, LT1

Not exactly sure what your questions are aiming for. You want a daily driver that "will make power". Well, define your interpretation of daily driver...many people will want a streetable everyday driver then want a choppy idle because it sounds cool. OR have manul steering but drive it every day...get my notion?
Block material doesn't change drivability. Yes, aluminum is lighter, just put in correct springs to make up for that. Read some of the LS swaps on the boards and you'll see.
The exhaust noise is dependant on the exhaust you choose. Not the engine. Loud or quiet can be had with all engines.
Differences in handling. LSx will typically be the same or better with an aluminum block. Again. Put in the correct springs for the weight of the car with engine and trans in the car. The swaps that were already done and other members can help advise you on good springs.
If you want drivability, why would you carb a previously fuel injected engine? I see no reason to carb a LS in the first place. Injection is not that hard.
What makes a LS "overkill" to you? You want 300hp? A 5.3 already does that stock. Want 600hp? Add boost. Drivable...yep 600hp, still drivable. Not looking for an 8 second car...good news...you already have two goals.
Now this doesn't mean you "NEED TO GO LSx OR THE ZOMBIES WILL GET YOU!" But it does mean you need to make goals, budget, knowledge on what people have done, what sounds good to you, and the know how if you're going to do the work yourself. If you can't do it and don't have the money to have someone good do it then do not do it. Get busy learning. The More You Know, and Knowledge is Power and all that old Saturday morning commercials stuff.
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Re: Pro vs Cons LS or L98, LT1
In todays world, the LSx based swaps make sense for just about EVERY situation you can think of.
About the only reason not to LSx swap is because you Want that old school motor, or you are heavily invested in performance parts for the old stuff.
The very reason I don't have a LSx in my car instead of the LT1 is that when the LT1 started knocking, I already had a ton of money in parts bought for an upgrade, so it was cheaper to just rebuild the shortblock than to dump the LT1 and go to a LS1, also my T56 isn't cost effective to switch to a LS1 style and its freshly rebuilt too. Also, I refuse to make the jump unless I'm going to an all aluminum engine. Which means LS1,2,3, or one of the 5.3L aluminum variants and that adds a cost over the iron 5.3L variants.
Daily driver? Iron block 5.3L swap. Cheap to find. Run the stock manifolds, buy the swap mounts. Convert the harness. Pickup a 4L60E or 80E. You now have a fairly cheap swap that will produce a solid 80-100hp more than the L98, get better fuel economy and sacrifice zero drivability.
About the only reason not to LSx swap is because you Want that old school motor, or you are heavily invested in performance parts for the old stuff.
The very reason I don't have a LSx in my car instead of the LT1 is that when the LT1 started knocking, I already had a ton of money in parts bought for an upgrade, so it was cheaper to just rebuild the shortblock than to dump the LT1 and go to a LS1, also my T56 isn't cost effective to switch to a LS1 style and its freshly rebuilt too. Also, I refuse to make the jump unless I'm going to an all aluminum engine. Which means LS1,2,3, or one of the 5.3L aluminum variants and that adds a cost over the iron 5.3L variants.
Daily driver? Iron block 5.3L swap. Cheap to find. Run the stock manifolds, buy the swap mounts. Convert the harness. Pickup a 4L60E or 80E. You now have a fairly cheap swap that will produce a solid 80-100hp more than the L98, get better fuel economy and sacrifice zero drivability.
Last edited by Thirdgen89GTA; Feb 18, 2015 at 10:12 PM.
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