Haven't posted ina while so I thought I'd throw this up here because I'm finalizing some small upgrades over the winter months.
First was I sent out my miniram to Brent Scott at Blitz Cylinder Heads. Mine was untouched out of the box with just a 1206 port match. Usually these flow between 285 and 300cfm. He did some work and it picked up a bit of cfm. Attached screen shot of numbers:




Next up is I had some issues with leaking I thought read main. It was actually leaking at the lip of the rear seal. When I got the pan off I noticI'd one of my oil pump ears had a hairline crack. So I replaced it with a 10552ST which is the Shark tooth melling pump. Bigger pickup tube as well. 3/4 vs 5/8.

I had a catch can Mighty mouse unit inline with my pcv setup and was still getting oil in my intake. They redesigned the can and I need to pay even more to upgrade the inside of it which I may not do. Not happy with them as when I purchased they said it would be what I need. A few month after I purchased it they redesigned the can. Oh well. I have a bit more blowby then most because of the .028 ring gap for nitrous. So I have installed a GZ vacume pump. It was mind racking trying to get this into the factory serpentine belt setup, but I got it done. ASP underdrive crank at 5.5 inches and the GZ vacume pump at 7.5 inches puts me at 4700rpm , under the recommended 5k max. Had to make custom brackets and put it into the old ac spot.





Just waiting on the intake to install then everything goes back in.

 

Thats awesome. My buddy has that GZ pump on his 434 and it works good. I know its big money but it does what you need to do. I had explored an electric vacuum pump and have had mixed results. Most everyone recommends a setup like your GZ pump with a catch can . I think put in that same exact Melling pump last winter actually. I still have some oil drips at the rear main seal and front lower timing cover area. I know my crankcase pressure is also problematic, rings are also opened up a bit for nitrous and I do go through a fair amount of nitrous on the track and street. Vac pump setup still intrigues me.

 

When I reached out to Bill at GZ he really didn't have any insight to putting this pump into the stock serpintine brackets. I was just looking into trying to get the rpm of the pump under its max. With their pulley and with my under drive crank I get it there. The other was making aluminum brackets. Just regular aluminum bar stock from Ace hardware and a torch and a vice and a grinder. It works. I'm probably in the same boat as you with the gapped rings and blowby. I have that dam lip seal leak I fixed but I dont trust it without the pump.Since its street I'm only going to run a low vacume number. Biggest hurdle is getting in the belt drive. Other than that I did 2 other mods I forgot to mention. I used morosos equalizing plate on the fuel pump plate. Used a 12AN orb to 10 AN there. You have to use the motion raceworks fitting for this. They make them. Only reason is I tried numerous other brand fittings and returned many ( Thanks Amazon)because the thread part 12AN orb the threads hit the block because they are too long. Motion raceworks makes a short thread 12 an orb to 10 and which is what I have. Its to equalize the bottom sump to the valve cover in terms of vacume. Hose from equalizing plate to pass valve cover. Pump draws off drivers side.

 

Thats pretty interesting actually. I've seen the fuel pump plate before but never knew its true purpose (more accurate readings), now I know, cool