So everything was just going too easy...

So I purchased an already modified k-member from someone on this site let's say 2017ish. I never even pulled it out of the box until this week. So it looks great, bolts up fine and then I attempt to put on my a-arms. It appears that my a-arm hit the a/c notch!

Has this ever happened to anyone? They never ground down the welds so it was a mess. I did clean it up a bit but it still hits. My grinder wouldn't fit in there anymore so I guess I'll try a power file next.

So I'm trying to figure out a path forward. I'm pretty sure tubular a-arms would clear and I'm leaning that way at the moment if the file doesn't work.

 

Do you have a picture? An AC notch is removing material, how is it interfering with the stock A Arms?

 

It hits on the inside when it articulates. It won't travel all the way up or down.

 

It is hitting that part in the square. That is why I think tubular would work without an issue.

 

Ahhh, I see now. It has encroached into the arm mount.

 

where exactly is it contacting? can you shine a flashlight into the opening and retake that picture?

 

It seems to be hitting in the middle where you can still see some of the grinding I performed. (Red Box) There is still maybe an eighth of an inch I could shave off. What I can't tell is if it is hitting anywhere else. I won't know until after it moves past the crap weld. That red arrow is what I hoping will not hit.

 

interesting - it looks like you could remove some material from the a-arm itself to get some more clearance, just not too much so that it compromises strength... other than that you probably have the two harder/more expensive options, either cutting out and re-welding the a/c notch to sit higher up, or it looks like the tubular style a-arms would not interfere there as you noted.

 

I pulled the arm out and the only scoring or scratching at this point is what you see in the picture. They will install all the way up or all the way down Then only move like 6 inches...

So tomorrow I'll file down that weld a bit more and maybe shave a little off the a-arm where it is hitting. Hopfully that solves the issue...

 

It looks like I would have to cut-off quite a bit to make these fit. Maybe an inch or so...Not sure I'm comfortable cuutting that much off.

 

That is quite a bit of material. if you can weld I would make the cut, and then just weld in a brace that sits lower towards the bushing. or you could "persuade" it with a ball peen hammer to be concave in the middle where the interference is, instead of convex. Just have to make sure it stays square by clamping it

 

I decided to try and grind it down to match the radius that clears. It looks like there will still be metal left. I'm using calipers to measure the distance and I'm almost there. It's getting too late to be outside grinding so I'll pick it up tomorrow.

At this point, that a-arm is a loss if it doesn't work anyway so why not try a few things first?

 

I do like the just cut it and weld in a piece further down. If there is not enough metal after I'm done grinding, I might just do that.

 

Someone sure cut it a little close to that bend at the center. I was afraid mine would flex too much cutting it like that. I left about 1/2 of material and welded a brace inside the x-member. With tubular arms there's definitely more room though. I also wanted to retain the triangular brace originally in that spot...most of if anyway.

 

I has able to just grind it down a bit to get clearance. I'll keep an eye on it but I'm happy for now.

 

Should be good to go. Are those rubber bushings?

 

Yes...The car is a weekend cruiser so trying to use as much rubber for comfort purposes.

 

Just wondering, cause rubber deflection could cause rubbing issues.

 

True...It was really only hitting in the middle when you were going from completely up to completely hanging. I would hope by a-arm was never hanging that low. In the normal running position, it has plenty of clearance.