V6 to 326 . . . T5 to Turbo 350.
V6 to 326 . . . T5 to Turbo 350.
I just got my 326 today (thanks Dave, you seriously rock) and transmission belived to be a 350 turbo. I know about the motor mounts etc. . .But what about the T5 to automatic? Do I need a new crossmember or could I just make my own mounts or seomthing. Thanks.
-if the T5 is the same length as a 700R4 you will need a different driveshaft, one out of an 82 Camaro/Firebird with a THM200 is the correct length driveshaft for a turbo 350 unless you have a 9 inch tailshaft thm350.
-if the crossmember is the same (T5 and 700R4) then it can be "worked" by elongating the holes on the crossmember. You have to buy the kit from jegs(or summit?) for the turbo 350 into a thirdgen so your torque arm bolts up, I had bad experiences with the hurst kit, you might try the B&M.
-Larger Radiator for an auto
-fuel lines will be on driver side where fuel pump on a pontiac is
-starter wires and battery need moved to driverside
-exhaust probaly will not bolt up(plan for this, but it might work?)
-need console(?) and shifter out of automatic, a 700R4 shifter might work(?)
-remove clutch pedals and give to me along with linkage(grin)
I can't think of anything else.
:hail: :lala:
that cracks me up.
-if the crossmember is the same (T5 and 700R4) then it can be "worked" by elongating the holes on the crossmember. You have to buy the kit from jegs(or summit?) for the turbo 350 into a thirdgen so your torque arm bolts up, I had bad experiences with the hurst kit, you might try the B&M.
-Larger Radiator for an auto
-fuel lines will be on driver side where fuel pump on a pontiac is
-starter wires and battery need moved to driverside
-exhaust probaly will not bolt up(plan for this, but it might work?)
-need console(?) and shifter out of automatic, a 700R4 shifter might work(?)
-remove clutch pedals and give to me along with linkage(grin)
I can't think of anything else.
:hail: :lala:
that cracks me up.
Thanks. I'm a little confused though about the shift linkage. What do I need? Also, what do you mean by enlongating the crossmember holes? I just want to know what I'm getting into before I do it next summer or so. Actually, It may even be this summer. (Anyone in Indiana need a 2.8?
or a V6 T5?
I called the junk yard and a V8 auto radiator is 75 bucks.
I've never done this before so. . . It's a complete engine so It doesn't sound that difficult compared to if it was a complete dissassembly and rebuild etc. . .
Also, how you can tell where the new mounts should go? Does it matter if it's 6 inches away from the raditator or afoot? Do I put a drive shaft in there and line it all up? Also, what kind of drill bit are we talking about here?
or a V6 T5?I called the junk yard and a V8 auto radiator is 75 bucks.
I've never done this before so. . . It's a complete engine so It doesn't sound that difficult compared to if it was a complete dissassembly and rebuild etc. . .
Also, how you can tell where the new mounts should go? Does it matter if it's 6 inches away from the raditator or afoot? Do I put a drive shaft in there and line it all up? Also, what kind of drill bit are we talking about here?
you should rebuild it. thats my opinion on that.
elongate means to make the holes/slots longer and bigger, kinda making it adjustable...
for the shift linkage you need a shifter and the cable and a bracket that bolts to the transmission to hold the shifter cable. i guess there really isnt any linkage there...thats on a column shift car or a manual tranny for the clutch.
i dont really know about the mounts....i took a guess on mine when I installed the chevy 350 into my cutlass...I got lucky.
elongate means to make the holes/slots longer and bigger, kinda making it adjustable...
for the shift linkage you need a shifter and the cable and a bracket that bolts to the transmission to hold the shifter cable. i guess there really isnt any linkage there...thats on a column shift car or a manual tranny for the clutch.
i dont really know about the mounts....i took a guess on mine when I installed the chevy 350 into my cutlass...I got lucky.
Does anyone know the correct distance for the engine when bolting on new motor mounts? Should I just Hook up the driveshaft and do it from there? Also, do I just get the AUTOMATIC shift linkages from a junked car and bolt it onto mine? Is it me or am I just stressing over this part? Is it really that big of deal?
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Ok, here's what you need to do. If you have the long tail shaft TH350 the driveline will work. The T5 crossmember has one hole for the tranny to bolt up. It's a joke and it won't line up with the TH350 anyway. My car was a V6 and I use my tranny cross member but I welded a piece of angleiron to the edge of it and drilled 2 holes for the tranny mount. Your gonna need a shifter out of any auto 82-92 thirdgen and make sure you get the lever that goes to the 700R4 POS tranny and put it on the TH350. You could also buy a B&M shifter. If you use the stock shifter, the bracket that bolts to the bottom of the tranny pan won't quite fit. There's 2 bolt holes and one end of that bracket will rest on top of one of the tranny bolts. That will work, I did it that way for a while then I finally cut it and welded in a small piece of metal so both holes lined up. But if you buy the B&M shifter it will come with everything. You will also need the cable out of the donor car if you go that way. Just take everything that has to do with the shifter and tranny. Cable, brackets, shifter lever on tranny etc.
Then you need the torquearm adapter kit which you can get from Summit. I made mine. The battery doesn't need to be moved. And just get a a tranny cooler. If you have any more questions just e-mail me.
Brad...
Then you need the torquearm adapter kit which you can get from Summit. I made mine. The battery doesn't need to be moved. And just get a a tranny cooler. If you have any more questions just e-mail me.
Brad...
Last edited by bhaas; Feb 11, 2002 at 10:53 AM.
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