I just got around to coating my Hooker headers that I got about 2 weeks ago (not that anyone knows or cares...) but so far, here's the progress.

 

I used Cermakrome ($20 6oz.. supposed to do 4-6 pair of shorty headers IIRC). This is about 30-40 mins of scotch-brite & polishing. What I wouldn't give for a huge sonic polisher...

 

You paint it white with that stuff and then polish it?

 

Wet, it starts out a light olive green color then actually cures to the greyish-white color you see on the one header above. After that, you can leave them unpolished or scuff/polish them to your satisfaction of shine.
Cermakrome is a ceramic coating similar (if not the same) to JetHot except, it's $180 cheaper (at least for the headers I have it is).

 

How many beers did it take to coat that header.

 

LOL. he's got the good stuff too, guess you're not in college.

 

Looks good

 

You must be a "Milwaukee's Best" guy huh? Not me... I'm a Busch Light guy.

Actually, now that I live in a cheap *** house... I drink Corona. Far from Ordinary.

That stuff looks pretty good. I'm somewhat surprised for how cheap it is. Let us know how it holds up to the temp. of the headers, OK? We'll let you be the guinea pig.

Thanks, and bottoms up...
AJ

 

Haha guys..

No Mark.. no college here but.. I'll cut corners elsewhere before I skimp on my favorite frostys

AJ.. I've actually already guinea pigged myself. I coated my Edelbrocks (now sold) when I first got them 4 or so years ago and they never had any problems or complaints which is why I decided to use Cermakrome once again but actually polish it out this time. The coating will not discolor or peel unless extreme heat is put to it (i.e. mapp gas torch).

One drawback to it is it does have to be heat cured in a oven for an hour. Sandblasting is recommended but, the 1st time I coated my Edelbrocks I cleaned the black paint off with laqure thinner and used a scotch-brite pad to suff the metal.

Thanks for the compliments guys

 

Busch lite, yuck. but it's cheap.

 

I had a GF that used to drink my year old busch lite when that's all I had because she was such a beer drinker. She was a keeper, but i let her go . Guess you don't know you love someone till there gone. WAIT...She drove a mustang . Now I remember why!!

 

corona aint bad..gotta be almost frozen to enjoy it

 

Yak! Mexican ****.

 

Yippie! They're in.. now all I need to do is make the rest of the exhaust...

Install ease... I give a 4-6 out of 10 depending on tolerance for stupid shyt.. bolt to head ease.. 8, plug access ease.. 7-8. The missing a.i.r. tubes is the biggest plus over the Edelbrocks I previously had.

 

Are those the regular hooker comp headers without the y pipe? If so where you getting the y pipe? I need a good y pipe BAD. I have those headers but may be getting rid of them soon for edelbrocks because I need the y pipe.

 

You are correct.. they are the ones w/o a y-pipe.
My plans are to make dual exhaust. I had the Edelbrock
headers previously. Good headers (IMO) but I really didn't
like how the drivers side pipe almost touches the oil pan.
If my dual exhaust idea fails.. I will just make a y-pipe that
doesn't run in front of the oil pan into a single 3" exhaust.

 

did the edelbrocks slip right in? I had alot of trouble getting the pass side hooker in there. Ended up having to remove all kinds of crap to get it to finally slide down in. Let me know how the dual exhaust goes...if its fairly easy i may go that route.

 

you engine looks awesome!!! great job..

 

TBI.. the Edelbrocks are somewhat easier to install in the engine bay but, the y-pipe is also somewhat a b-tch to put in due to the 'wonderful' donut gasket/flange setup. That would probably be my biggest complaint about them. The AIR tubes on the pass side make it extremely difficult to tighten the last bolt at the back of the head as well.
From the looks of things.. I may end up having to modify the trans x-member to run the exhaust the way I want.. I haven't decided exactly what I want to do just yet but I have a general idea.. I just need to lay under the car a little longer I guess..

Thanks Md.. good thing you can't see how dirty it really is from paint dust & crap though..

 

Well if I get the edelbrocks the first thing Im doing is snapping the A.I.R tubes off and welding them up. I don't have to worry about the last bolt anyways because my head is stripped....

 

How long is that crap supposed to last? I bought some $40 ceramic crap from summit that managed to last about as long as bbq grill paint.

Did you use a regular spray gun or something else to apply it?

 

Well Jim.. I had a nice little thing typed out for you but, since the board apparently logs you out after a certain amount of 'idle' time.. all of what I typed is gone & I don't feel like typing it again so I'll 'Cliff Note' it for you

Cermakrome quotably lasts a long time. Companies certified to apply it give up to a 3 year warrenty on it.
TechLine claims that is can give a "virtual lifetime of protection agains rust" and, I can say that one year of daily driving and monthly engine washes seemed to not phase it even though the first time I ever used it, I didn't apply it worth a damm.

It's well more worth it than some rattle can junk that claims 60,000º protection (yes I'm exagerating).

It has to be applied by airbrush or paint gun and cured in an oven or something similar that reaches 450-500º.
It does stink somewhat while curing even though Techline says different.
It also polishes out similar to aluminum w/o having to use 60 different grits of sandpaper.

 

Yeah but he smokes Winstons. Eugh.. Rather smoke oak leaves rolled up in a paper towel.

 

You know.. I'd actually pay money to see that
See how bad a Winston is after that....

On another note.. I've ordered my tubing but, I don't see it getting here by the weekend. I have checked things out and I will have to modify my x-member to run the dual exhaust I want but other than that.. I see no real setbacks or clearance problems.