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What is "A.I.R"????????

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Old 06-14-2001, 11:31 AM
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Car: 1992 Camaro Z28 Convertible Z03
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What is "A.I.R"????????

2 questions...what is "A.I.R", should I get the SLP headers with A.I.R or not.

2nd question is whats is the difference between exhaust manifolds and headers. Untill the other day I didnt even know there was two diff. things....sorry for the dumb question.

------------------
1986 Trans Am, T-Top, 305 TPI, Flowmaster 80 series. Much more to come in July.
[*]Sound System: Dual 12" Ground Zero Nuclear Series 900 watt RMS subs in custom box made to fit the rear well, Only 500 watts running them though, Pioneer Head Unit and Rockford Fosgate wiring.


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Old 06-14-2001, 02:27 PM
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Car: 91 Camaro RS Convertible
Engine: 385ci LT1 cnc ported heads big cam
Transmission: 4L60E automatic
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Zexel posi 7.5" rear
AIR is the smog pump crap on our cars. So it depends on where you live as whether you "need" the AIR or not. I got the AIR on my headers because they do smog tests in NC just not where I live yet. I did remove my pump and hoses. But I carefully placed that stuff away incase I have to use it again.

Brian

------------------
91 Camaro RS 5.0L Black Convertible 700R4
** Added so far **
*GM Wonderbar
*Alston SFC's
*Turbo City Inj Spacer
*Dual Snorker Air Filter
*March Performance Pulleys
*GM 3.42 Gears with OEM Zexel
*Edelbrock headers
*3" High Flow Cat
*3" Dynomax Exhaust
*Walbro 255 lph Fuel Pump
Old 06-14-2001, 03:07 PM
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Car: 92 RS - Fully Restored w/Custom Int
Engine: LO3 with some mods
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Richmond
Other than physical design, headers and exhaust manifolds perform the same function.....headers just do it better.

------------------
92 Camaro RS, LO3, 5-spd, T-tops

Performance:
K&N Open Air Filter, Edelbrock performer TBI intake, Fastchip Prom, Timing +4 degrees, Centerforce clutch, Xact 8mm wires, SLP 1 3/4" Headers (coated), Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, Z28 Grille w/aftmkt fog lamps, MacEwen white-face guages
Electronics:
Alpine 8030 Alarm System, Valentine One Radar Detector (How did I ever drive without one?), Pioneer DEH 7450 Head Unit w/6-pack CD changer, Pioneer DEQ 7600 Sound Processor, 2 Kenwood KAC-846 Amps powering 2 12" Pro Red subs, 2 Pioneer 6x9 and 2 MTX 4x6 speakers.
NEXT UP: TBI mods, 3.42 gears w/Torsen posi
Old 06-15-2001, 12:04 AM
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Hey man,

There is no such thing as "a dumb question."

You don't know the answer to a question, so you bring it to a forum like this. Then the folks who know will fill you in.

If anyone tells you your questions are dumb, ask them how it is that they were born with the sum of all knowledge?

A decently run forum will always ban the trolls out there who try to make someone feel foolish for asking.

But I think you are safe here and the knowledge of the average answerer is very high.
Old 06-15-2001, 01:10 AM
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Just to expand on Sitting's comments: There ain't no dumb questions,... just dumb mistakes that could've been avoided if more questions had been asked(Been there, Done that, Got the t-shirts to prove it).

Exhaust manifolds are the cast-iron logs the factory attaches to your exhaust ports. They are usually under-sized, mismatched to the exhaust ports and inhibit good exhaust flow, create very little scavenging(essential to good cylinder filling) and add a lot of weight. On the plus side, they are real cheap to make and retain a lot of heat in the exhaust stream(essential for maintaining exhaust velocity).

Headers are made of thin wall tubing(mild steel or stainless steel). They create a stronger scavenging effect(due to the longer tubes), disturb the flow of exhaust gases less than manifolds(headers have smooth inside walls - cast iron manifolds have fairly rough walls), usually match the exhaust ports better and in most ways are an improvement over the factory manifolds. On the downside,... they are more expensive to make, on our cars they can be a pain to install, they retain less heat, and they are less durable than cast-iron manifolds. Bang for the buck($$$ per hp) they are second only to a good cat-back system(and you need a good cat-back before you should consider headers).

A.I.R. stands for Air Injection Reaction. The purpose of A.I.R. is two-fold:

1. When injected at the exhaust manifold or header, the air combines with any unburnt fuel and allows it to combust. This helps decrease the amount of hydrocarbon pollutants(especially at low engine speeds) and creates heat in the exiting exhaust gases(a good thing),
2. When injected at the catalytic converter, the platinum(or other rare earth metals) helps join free oxygen atoms with carbon monoxide molecules(a nasty pollutant), the end result being carbon dioxide(something all plant life needs to survive).

These explanations are meant to be a simplistic, to convey the general principles. You can find some very detailed explanations of these subjects by searching the archives(or surfing the S.A.E. website). But that's left up to your inclinations.
Old 06-15-2001, 11:31 AM
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I believe it also believe it halps prevent backfires caused by a lean condition in deceleration from destroying your cat. That's a good thing too. Of course, my AIR pump belt is "broken". I need every hp I can get

------------------
1987 Camaro Sport Coupe LG4
700R4 with 2.73 open rear
Hypertech chip, 180* stat
L69 Dual snorkel air cleaner with K&N air filter
CK rods with B hanger
Hooker catback
Pioneer DEH-P4000, Pioneer speakers front/back
Old 03-23-2002, 11:14 PM
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Originally posted by Sitting Bull
Hey man,There is no such thing as "a dumb question."
That's right: "There are no stupid questions, just stupid people." -- Mr. Garrison
Old 03-24-2002, 01:03 AM
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heed sitting bulls words.





LoL, sorry had to,
Old 03-24-2002, 01:38 PM
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Car: RS
Engine: 305
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.42
for those without inspection

AIR = removable equipment

don't worry I've asked way worse questions, you learn something new everyday, today you learned about manifolds and headers, this morning I learned I need to count drinks better
Old 03-24-2002, 02:13 PM
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700R4 3500 stall, TransGo shift kit
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 4.11:1
Vic: I noticed you're from IL. Have you taken your car to emissions yet since removing the AIR junk? If so, how did it do?
Old 03-24-2002, 04:45 PM
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Good question, MetalliCamaroRS. I always hear the only reason you need the AIR is to pass emissions when the car is cold. (The secondary combustion and consequent extra heat in the exhaust system helps warm up a cold cat that needs to be hot to do its job.) So you only really need AIR if you have a visual inspection. When you take it out, you only pollute the air when you first start your car. As soon as its warm, your no worse than anyone else. (In fact, someone correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the computer stop AIR flow into the manifolds and send it all to the cat after the car's warm anyway?) Just remember to take the car around the block a few times before you have it tested. So vic, how'd the car actually do?
Old 03-25-2002, 05:51 PM
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well guys in Il. there are lonely a few places that have emissions testsing, around chicago and springfield. I don't have anything, but I will eventaully put a cat on if need be. I plan on a lo5 swap (no air pump). hey MetalliCamaroRS, I know you have the sniffer (my buddy lives by chicago), but do you have visuals too?
Old 03-25-2002, 11:23 PM
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700R4 3500 stall, TransGo shift kit
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 4.11:1
Originally posted by vicV8rs91
well guys in Il. there are lonely a few places that have emissions testsing, around chicago and springfield. I don't have anything, but I will eventaully put a cat on if need be. I plan on a lo5 swap (no air pump). hey MetalliCamaroRS, I know you have the sniffer (my buddy lives by chicago), but do you have visuals too?
Nope, no visuals. All they do is a sniffer and a gas cap check.
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