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Old Sep 2, 2001 | 05:24 PM
  #1  
JoeIROC's Avatar
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From: Jacksonville, FL
General Header question

Which *good* headers will fit my car (305 TPI)? Recommendations, please...

Also, is it necessary to raise the engine out of the car to install them? I have a standard set of hand tools, ramps, and a jack. Is that enough?

Joe


------------------
86 IROC TPI 305
700-R4 with Trans-go shift kit
K&N Air filters
Dyno-Max cat-back
Summit tranny cooler
CEI throttle enhancer chip
Gutted MAF
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Old Sep 3, 2001 | 11:58 AM
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From: Tx
Car: 92 Z, 91 Formula, 04 CTS, 01 Tahoe
Engine: 355 forged 4 bolt, SuperRam, 58mm t
Transmission: T5, looking for t-56
I have the hooker super comps.I had to raise the motor some,along with the car,and install them from underneath.PITA.Shorties would be much easier.
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Old Sep 3, 2001 | 03:30 PM
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From: cary,nc,usa
I belive that slp headers will install from the tio using hand tools. You shouldn't have to raise the engine either.

------------------
'86 IROC 5-speed
305 LG4
edelbrock performer rpm intake
edelbrock 600 cfm carb
msd pro billet hei distributer
'95 3.23 rearend
hotchkis rear suspension
PST front polygraphite suspension
"speed kills. buy a f@&d, live forever."
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Old Sep 4, 2001 | 12:44 AM
  #4  
RSpeed's Avatar
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From: Tx
Car: 92 Z, 91 Formula, 04 CTS, 01 Tahoe
Engine: 355 forged 4 bolt, SuperRam, 58mm t
Transmission: T5, looking for t-56
A guy in our 3rd gen club installed Edelbrock headers without raising the motor in about 6 hrs.
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Old Sep 4, 2001 | 10:49 AM
  #5  
Kevin91Z's Avatar
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From: Orange, SoCal
Car: 1990 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 355 TPI siamesed runners
Transmission: Tremec T56
Axle/Gears: 12-Bolt 3.73
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by RSpeed:
A guy in our 3rd gen club installed Edelbrock headers without raising the motor in about 6 hrs.</font>
But he asked for *good* headers.

Since you live in Florida with no smog checks, just about anything made for 82-92 f-bodies will work. SLP, Dynomax, Hooker, Hedman, etc



------------------
1991 Camaro Z28
5.7L 5-Speed (originally 305)
317 RWHP, 418 RWTQ
13.23 @ 107.62 MPH
Southern California
Member: SoCal 3rd Gen F-Bodies
Member: SoCal F-Bodies
-=ICON Motorsports=-
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Old Sep 4, 2001 | 06:06 PM
  #6  
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From: Jacksonville, FL
yeah, but can all those headers be installed with the tools I mentioned above?

Joe
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Old Sep 4, 2001 | 07:43 PM
  #7  
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From: Lincoln, Nebraska
Car: 1988 Firebird, 2000 GTP
Engine: 327
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9" posi, 4.11
Yes, headers can be installed with hand tools, a jack, and 2 jack-stands. Even if you have to lift the engine slightly. Just take out one side of the motor mounts, and jack up the engine slightly on that side. I just got done installing my Dynomax headers on my 305 TBI Firebird. It took me forever becuase of rusted bolts and such. Be sure to have a deep 15mm socket for the manifold/Y-Pipe bolts. Those were a PITA.
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Old Sep 4, 2001 | 08:45 PM
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JoeIROC's Avatar
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From: Jacksonville, FL
Somehow I just didn't think that unbolting one of the mtor mounts was enough...

I was thinking you would need to remove all the accessories, etc... What about the emissions tubes and what-not?

Joe


------------------
86 IROC TPI 305
700-R4 with Trans-go shift kit
K&N Air filters
Dyno-Max cat-back
Summit tranny cooler
CEI throttle enhancer chip
Gutted MAF
Reply
Old Sep 5, 2001 | 06:29 PM
  #9  
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From: Lincoln, Nebraska
Car: 1988 Firebird, 2000 GTP
Engine: 327
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9" posi, 4.11
First, I removed the A.I.R. tubes from the manifolds. PITA I ended up cutting half of them off with some giant tin snips. I also removed the A.I.R. valves from the pump.
Second, I took off all the accessory brackets and unbolted the exhaust manifolds. Like I said before, the Y-Pipe bolts were alos a PITA.
Third, I unbolted the Y-Pipe from the CAT-back and took the CAT out also. I had to cut the line for that.
Fourth, I put the headers in. The drivers side went in with the removal of 1 spark plug. The passengers side, I had to remove the motor mount bolt from that side and jack the engine up on that side. Just enough to squeeze the header up in there. With Dynomax, there was no other way, I tried. After rebolting the motor mount, I bolted up the headers and had to make custom spacers for the accessory brackets. I went to a local hardware store and bought some thick walled pipe that had a inside big enough to slip the stock manifold bolts through. I cut these to the size of the stock manifolds, subtracting a little to make up for the header thickness. This way, I could remount the brackets. With that done, I replaced the A.I.R. valves, and plugged the one that went to the manifolds, but left the one going to the CAT.
Fifth, I had to get new wires. The "cut it yourself" kind are good since you can run them where you want and still have extra.

That is about all I can think of. Sorry if that is too much info. I know many people in here have put on headers.

One other thing, enjoy the open headers while you can. I had just got back from a NASCAR race when I put mine on, so it was like being in one of those cars, only slower.
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Old Sep 6, 2001 | 01:19 AM
  #10  
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From: Orange, SoCal
Car: 1990 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 355 TPI siamesed runners
Transmission: Tremec T56
Axle/Gears: 12-Bolt 3.73
You shouldnt have to remove your accessories to put on headers. I never have, and neither has my dad.

It helps if you remove the smog trees first, but thats just as much as a pain in the *** as removing the manifolds. Be sure you use lots of oil on the bolts before you remove them.

------------------
1991 Camaro Z28
5.7L 5-Speed (originally 305)
317 RWHP, 418 RWTQ
13.23 @ 107.62 MPH
Southern California
Member: SoCal 3rd Gen F-Bodies
Member: SoCal F-Bodies
-=ICON Motorsports=-
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Old Sep 6, 2001 | 09:54 AM
  #11  
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From: Dayton, O.
Car: 91 Camaro Z28
Engine: LS7
Transmission: M12/T56
Axle/Gears: 3.79
Stock up on the pb blaster

------------------
Chuck Kulchar
1991 RS
Open Element w/K&N
3" cat and Force II cat-back
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