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Install Guide for Hooker 2210 LT's for Aftermarket heads.

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Old May 4, 2003 | 10:02 PM
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Install Guide for Hooker 2210 LT's for Aftermarket heads.

Well since theres a writeup for Stock heads, I am installing them on my A/M Heads. It seems like everything hits, I am not totally finished but will edit this and update after completion. Off the Bat the I lifted the engine and slipped the pass in, did not fit at all. The A arm was hitting the 8 like said before and I was having a problem with the 4 or 6 tube, I will check later hitting the Brake line and part of the the Member assembly, also the knock sensor hits which should be moved to the other side.

The only picks I have right now is how I cut the A arm cover with a Saw zaw, it was quit easy and Im sure will save alot of time for that little process. It also looks that there is adiqate space for a stock starter. Like I said I wanted to get this up now so I dont forget!DOH!!! The instal will be complete tomorrow and I will have a ton of pics. I will just edit this post so it is all at the top.


The first pic is a view of the Driver side A arm facing the front. You will notice how I took it all off when you compare it to the 2nd pic of the Passenger side Top View. On the Pass side only half was necessary but I will be removing it all for more access.
Attached Thumbnails Install Guide for Hooker 2210 LT's for Aftermarket heads.-dsc00576.jpg  
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Old May 4, 2003 | 10:03 PM
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2nd pass. side notice where the brakeline had to be unbolted from the mount and bent foward, I also had to grind the crossmember alittle.
Attached Thumbnails Install Guide for Hooker 2210 LT's for Aftermarket heads.-dsc00575-copy.jpg  

Last edited by JucinGTA; May 4, 2003 at 10:10 PM.
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Old May 5, 2003 | 07:15 AM
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From: Lower Salford, PA
Car: 1987 Camaro Z-28
Engine: 6.3L Victor EFI
Transmission: Tremec TKO 600
Axle/Gears: Moser 9"/4.11 Trac-Lok
I had very little interference on the driver’s side. Most of my considerable cutting, grinding & welding was on the passenger side. With the age of our cars, the unibody construction, accidents & abuse, no two cars will be dimensionally the same. Then add various aftermarket parts with reengineered designs; you can imagine the combinations that can be had. There is going to be no set installation guide, you will have to improvise.
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Old May 5, 2003 | 11:21 AM
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From: Maryland
Car: 2005 Subaru STI
Engine: 153ci of Turbo Power!
Transmission: 6-Speed
The writeup that I did (sticky) is for aftermarket heads. It is not for stock heads. They are AFR190cc heads. You said that you are using A/M heads. What is that?

Tim
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Old May 5, 2003 | 03:52 PM
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From: north plainfield, nj
Car: 05' GTO
Engine: 6.0L
Transmission: A4
yea so far this is no right up for stock heads. when ever i get the time to install mine i think ill take the time and do a right up for stock heads
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Old May 5, 2003 | 09:24 PM
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From: Maryland
Car: 2005 Subaru STI
Engine: 153ci of Turbo Power!
Transmission: 6-Speed
Originally posted by Timz2882
yea so far this is no right up for stock heads. when ever i get the time to install mine i think ill take the time and do a right up for stock heads
There really isn't any point. Aftermarket heads that are 'bolt on' for L98 applications and stock heads are so similar that the differences would be small. The only differences would be plug clearance with various plug angles which I've already covered and the placement of the exhaust ports which should be in the same location if it's a standard small block chevy head. I'm really curious as to the heads that JucinGTA is Running because that is a HUGE difference as compared to BOTH stock and standard SBC aftermarket heads. I know several people running long tubes with standard SBC aftermarket heads and everything is about the same as mine with regard to the install. Stock heads will be no different.

Tim
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Old May 5, 2003 | 10:14 PM
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From: north plainfield, nj
Car: 05' GTO
Engine: 6.0L
Transmission: A4
oh okay then
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Old May 6, 2003 | 09:57 AM
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Sportman 2s
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Old May 6, 2003 | 11:15 AM
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From: Maryland
Car: 2005 Subaru STI
Engine: 153ci of Turbo Power!
Transmission: 6-Speed
Originally posted by JucinGTA
Sportman 2s
WTF. Are you sure there isn't a problem with your car? Is your frame bent or are your engine mounts sagging way too much? There's no way you should have to do that much modification for World Products Sportsman II's ... no way.

Tim
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Old May 6, 2003 | 04:46 PM
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Well I guess I didnt have to do that much but I dont "Halfa$$" my stuff(No offense to you) I predicted what could happen. With the Member somewhat grinded, I would have minimum clearence needed. Well I have a 400 with a T brake that I plan on leaving off of, that would equal a **** load of twisting. I could let this happen and let it dent a tube and have it be done with, but I dont want that to happen.
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Old May 6, 2003 | 06:30 PM
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From: Maryland
Car: 2005 Subaru STI
Engine: 153ci of Turbo Power!
Transmission: 6-Speed
No offense taken. I don't halfa$$ my stuff. To me halfa$$ing would be not taking the time to clearance only what is necessary. You want to keep the integrity of the structure. I just don't see a need to chop up the car that much ... especially given the DIRECTION the motor is going to twist. It's twisting toward the passenger side which means that is twisting away from the passenger side of the k member (since the tubes will be pushing down on that side). I did the same type of analysis on my car and found no reason to chop the frame up. Poly or solid mounts will also help the situation.

Tim

Last edited by TRAXION; May 6, 2003 at 06:35 PM.
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Old May 7, 2003 | 11:46 AM
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I figure that its only a cover for the A arm Bolt and bushing, so it couldnt hurt. I plan on ordering a Roadtech K member with in the next few months. Life will be so much easier with that.
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