The other night I'm just driving along when my voltmeter starts to violently bounce. The whole electrical system seems to be going haywire. I pull over and find my positive battery cable arcing to my passenger side header. Apparently a small strand poked out of the cable's insulation and bent up toward the header #2 primary and arced. The arcing created a small hole on the underside of the primary tube. Must I take off the header and weld it or is there some quick or relatively simple fix?

 

You can tack weld that hole. It will look a little funny but it is the only way to fix it.

 

holly crap!!!

i was pouring coolant in tank and spilled some the next thing i know i start to hear a noise and smoke coming up in the area of the headers / oil tube, i start to get a cloth and start to mop up the water.

apparently the heat from the header casued that wire insulation to melt away and the wire must of been so close that when the coolant was added into the equation bad things started to happen, i dont think i had a hole made in the tube but i better check for that plus my car wasnt on and i zip tied the wire away from the header now, thats what i get for rushing through the job and not paying attention to a wire that important.

 

man, that sucks, but atleast you are ok. Now you have a good excuse to get some hooker 2055's.

 

Why would he get hooker 2055's if he has SLP's? I'd only get 2055's if I need AIR. Plus I have had hooker headers on my car before..I don't like the way the flanges at the Y pipes are. Donut gaskets work better than flange gaskets I think.

OH BTW I love that blue/silver...I like blue cars. I wish I had your color scheme instead of red/silver...

 

Wanna trade!?! Of course I'll throw in bank if needed. And my unpainted 3'' cervini cowl

 

Because the hookers are simply better period! BTW, you obviously have never owned a set of the hooker 2055's because they have no gasket to fiddle with at all at the collector. They are self sealing. You might wanna check out the recent thread showing the differences between most of the headers available and you would change your mind very quickly. I have the 2055's and the SLP's are second rate compared to them. Anyways, I once grounded a ratchet to the body of a car while changing the battery and it literally melted the ratchet. It was scary and I learned my lesson then. It's a good thing you didn't get hurt.

 

Easy there.... Your OPINION is that the Hookers are better.... IMO they are not because they are smaller. And I haven't had any of the problems with my 1 3/4" SLPs that everybody else has. I did have to send my left side header back because the flange was bent, but that was just a warranty issue with a bad part - happens to all manufacturers - even Hooker. I will agree that their customer service is still in need of some help.... I had to go around with them about covering shipping but it all got figured out and I am happy with the situation. But that has nothing to do with the actual part which does what it is designed and intended to do perfectly.

Ok, back on topic again . Probably going to have to weld it and the best way would be with the header off so you can clean up after yourself. Kind of depends on how involved you want to get.... A quick tack weld might do the job with much less time/effort.

 

I had a set of hookers but not the 2055's. I got the ones that had no Y-pipe. I figured the 2055's were those headers + a y-pipe but I guess im wrong.

I consider 2055's if you could get them without AIR...I had to butcher my edelbrocks before I ever even installed them. Damn AIR.

 

I agree about the SLP being the better design, especially with the "firecone" type collector. That is why I bought them That and the $200 asking price... I will eventually open the collectors up to at least a true 2.5", but they do just fine now.

I know they will have to be welded to correctly fix the hole. But what I'm asking is for a temporary solution. Something that will quiet down the noise for a week or two until I can find a few hours to remove the header. Anything ?

 

As far as 1 5/8 go, slp's use 17g stainless, hooker 2055 uses 18g mild. So the hooker 1 5/8 will be a larger ID tube than the SLP.

Hooker doesn't make a short 1 3/4, but the long 1 3/4 also has a larger ID size than the SLP for the same reason.

Your right its his opinion. I don't like either headers really. I think they're both grossly overpriced, but I've taken it up the *** enough from SLP over the years and I think anyone who spends money on new 1 3/4 slp headers, with all the install crap needs their head examined.

-- Joe

 

Show me a way to use the 2210s with a T56 and S&W SFCs and I am there! In all seriousness I really wanted to go LT but can't at this point as I will probably have to notch the subframes to do it right and don't have the time/money/skill to tackle that job right now. Ground clearance is at a premium on my car and I can't afford to lose anymore than I already have.

I agree... I bought just the headers and did it on a GP... The rest of the stuff to install them can be had from other sources for much better pricing and will be better quality ta-boot .

 

I had my head examined, i am fine; but i still would buy the slp headers