I have a 1984 Pontiac Trans Am with the L69 engine-the High Output 305 with a 4bbl carb. It has a Hooker Cat-back exhaust. I was planning on getting headers. I am debating the removal of the AIR system. Passing emissions is not a problem. I am also planning on removing the Cat and replacing it with a straight pipe and a 3in cut-out.

First: will removing the AIR system involve driveabilty issues?
the car is my daily driver.im not worried about it being too loud or emissions.

Second: with all that in mind. what headers should i get if i remove all the AIR components?

if i keep them?

the car doesnt have a serpt belt setup so i am assuming this makes for a much more simple removal of the AIR system.

Has anyone removed the AIR with this year car or this engine? do you have any input or things to look out for?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

The AIR system can be totally removed without any driveability problems. I've done it on three GM vehicles so equipped. The plugs for the smog pump can all be unplugged and no trouble codes will be thrown.

Get a set of headers without AIR provisiosn and ditch your cat for the straight pipe.

The smog pump has its own belt. Just take it off and toss that paperweight in the trash.

There will probably be a crossover tube attached to the back of the block that will be hard to remove. It does nothing, so you can just leave it where it is if it's too big a hassle to remove.

I switched to a serpentine system and still don't have AIR. I gutted a smog pump and run it as an idler pulley. To the untrained eye it looks stock, minus the tubes into the headers obviously.

 

Thanks very much.

How do you like the serpt belt setup?

 

I totally love it. It's one of the best things I haev done to the car.

That being said it is a lot more involved than I thought it would be when I first started. I had to change the alternator, AC compressor, and power steering pump to make it work. I also had to drill and tap a hole in the right head. Obviously I had to swap to a reverse rotation water pump too.

The main brackets are all available new from GM, and they were no where near as expensive as I thought they would be (about $70 each for the main craddle brackets). The rest of the stuff came from NAPA.

It's involved, but well worth it in my opinion. The old multi-belt system was hard to adjust properly, especially the power steering belts. I feel that the car makes a little more power too.

 

I have also gotten rid of AIR on two vehicles without any problems at all. There is a debate on the exhust board here about some potential ill effects of removing it. I think the vertict is out on it still. In theory it could cause problems, however they are so minimal no one sees and proof.

 

which headers would you suggest...im looking for something that includes a y-pipe.

 

I like the SLP ones because they are stainless steel. I have Edelbrock headers on my car now, which were installd by a previous owner. I do not like them because they are just mild steel and are already covered with rust. The SLP headers cost just a little bit more than the Edelbrocks, but they will never rust.

 

Could you post pics and supply details on how and what parts to remove when eliminating the AIR pump.

Thanks in advance.

 

The biggest question about removing the AIR system is which style belt drive you have. If you have an '82-'85 v-belt system or an '86-'87 hybrid system it is really easy, because the AIR pump has it's own belt. All you have to do is remove the belt, the pump, the brackets, and the plumbing. If you have stock manifolds you can use plugs for the AIR ports. If you have headers without AIR ports you're set. If not you can just weld the holes closed.

If you have an '88-'92 serpentine system things get a little more complicated. If you remove the pump you will need a shorter belt. I can't say the length of the new belt, because I chose to handle the situation a little bit differently. I just opened up the AIR pump and gutted it, so that inside all it has is the main drum and the bearings. Then I put it back together and reinstalled it using the stock length belt. Now it works like an idler pulley. Also, if I ever need a belt in a pinch I'll be able to use a stock one instead of some other belt that might not be so easy to find.