Hey guyz,

I currently have Hedman shorty's, Hedman ypipe and a Borla cat-back exhaust and as u can imagine its not gonna cut it anymore

My 383 laid down approx. 625hp (crank HP). Car is setup for drag racing and street use, only driven about 50miles per week if that. Aslo i am using a th400 and a Sphon Xmember with Torque arm (I know they will get in my way). And i am not at all concerned with emissions, with that said:

First: I am intending on using the Hooker SuperComp 1 3/4" Headers (although i learned there is a company that makes 1 7/8"? suggestions?)

Second: Y-pipe? I was thinking about using the Muffles till i read TRAXION's write up and he said its gotta be all cut up to make it work.

Thrid: Cat-Back or True Dual? I prefer a Cat Back only because i hate when the exhaust hangs too low, so annoying and ugly however i have seen some nice true dual setups. I love the sound of my Borla (nice deep loud tone, IROCthe5.7L can attest to my exhaust sound pretty loud) however i fear that the 3" system will be too restricting for me now.

So.... Please put yourself in my shoes and let me know exactly how you'd go about putting together a complete exhaust system for my car, from headers to muffler.. Thanks a ton guyz!

Mike

 

id say the longtubes are a must. 1 7/8 just seems like overkill on any sbc to me, but thats just me

i dont really think the 3" pipe will hurt you as long as its a nice smooth mandrel bend. but upgrading it wouldnt hurt.

a better flowing, non crossflow type muffler will also help

 

What cylinder heads are you running?

 

1 3/4" long tubes and dual 3" exhaust. You will choke the motor if you run any form of single exhaust, even 4" single will be restrictive. If you get a good shop to do the work you'll have pretty decent ground clearance

 

Cylinder Heads = AFR 210cc, full competition port, 64cc chambers

88IROC350TPI: You really think i should do anything less than a Dual 3"? I thought i could get away with the Mufflex 4" system. Honestly i'd rather have a true dual setup that dumps b4 the rear axle.

Any other suggestions?
Thanks, Mike

 

1st- Hooker #2210s should work fine, Ive seen lots of 10-11 sec cars running them. I am almost positive 1 7/8" headers require a special adaptor plate for sbc's

2nd- Y what? Y are you even thinking of single exhaust?? 3" duals will work IMO. Exactly what I'd do: Dual 3" into and X-pipeand dump it under the the rear end. Electrocic cut-outs to open the headers anytime. (take out the X pipe and cutouts to save a lot of $$)

3rd- See #2, bless us with some specs, pics, and dyno graphs of your beast! :hail: :hail:

 

1 7/8" primary tube headers will require an adapter plate because the primary tubes will overlap the factory bolt holes in the cylinder heads.

 

Thanks for the reply SweetS10v8, i'm really glad i posted this cuz i did a search b4 hand and everybody keeps saying the Mufflex 4" is over kill and u'll lose torque, i guess i'm in a whole nother bracket. I will look further into the 3" true dual, there is a local muffler shop that i hear is pretty good, i'm gonna print out some pix and go talk to the guyz to get a feel for what they can do.

You can count on seeing pix of my car and the build-up, i've got some pix of the heads, rotating assembly and all, i'll scan them and post them soon, i just gotta finish the roll of film so i can get them developed.

Anybody got any pix of a true dual 3" exhaust??
I'll try doing a search on that..

Thanks again, Mike
Any other comments, please post!

 

Ok, i've been thinking about this, particuarly how to make a 3" dual system work and what mufflers to do. Generally (it seems) the thing that kills the clearance under these cars is the mufflers right? Well i LOVE the sound of chambered mufflers and since there round and not as tall as a normal muffler do you think it would tuck up a bit better. Another little advantage i have is that i am running a 28" tall tire on the rear so it sits like 88IROC350TPI's car.

Figure Hooker SuperComps, 3" S-extensions (custom made), 2-chambered mufflers, and turndowns. How does that sound, think it would be too loud? I was running the Borla catback on my stock 305 with the cutout open and i never had any problems with the cops however with this huge solid roller cam i have in the 383 and mating that to the chambered mufflers might be too loud, or do u think it would sound like ******* car?

 

F body dual exhausts

 

It will be loud with 3" duals, My father has 86 Z28 with a 355 12.5:1 with a solid roller 264/272 @.050 and .624\.667 lift on a 106LCA, and it set off car alarms whe you drive by parked cars.

 

George Baxter (the guy in Spohn's ad above) runs a 4" Mufflex system on his 4thgen and it runs bottom nines. Unless he has changed it since?

 

Mike, id definitely go with the true duals to squeeze every bit of power out of your new motor. It does suck that you’re going to have to throw the borla away though, it did sound really nice

I don't think you will have to much trouble with the po po as long as you stay out of Amherst.

Can't wait to see the big orange machine come spring! :hail:

 

What does it run out of curiosity?

 

And I bet he'd go faster with bigger exhaust. I've seen a crapload of cars running deep into the 10's on single 3" exhaust but just because they run good doesn't mean its not hurting them.

 

:hail: been saying that forever. Just because they are doing it doesnt mean they couldnt go faster with better exhaust.

 

How do u guys feel about cutouts? Are they just for sound or do that actually give you that open header power?

 

It doesn't mean that they will either. Have talked to 2 people who did not go faster after converting to a Mufflex 4" after running a Borla wide open. They were running very low 12's and had long tubes. Keep in mind that the Mufflex 4" system is also extremely heavy as compared to a 3" system. The first time I held one I was like WHOA! - this thing is a monster!

Tim

 

First of all, you dont HAVE TO run dual exhaust for 600 horse power!

MTI (Motor Sport Technologies Inc.) builds 427 ci stroker LS-1 's that dyno at over 550 at the wheels. Which means that the motor is making well over 600 hp at the crank.

With that said, they are making that kind of power with 1 3/4 longtubes and a y-pipe into a 3 inch Borla / Corsa / SLP, etc.... catback.

Thats right, 600 + hp with regular longtubes and 3 in. cat back.

Believe it......

 

I have seen that too 1bad91z, i've looked through all of my old GMHTP mags and seen alot of guyz still running the 3" borla, i actually see more guyz running the 3" borla than the 4" mufflex. Which is what brought me to this original question, what do i do??

Maybe i'll just stick with my stock borla for now and see how it goes, maybe alittle down the road i'll upgrade to the 4" or something else. ???? Besides i really could use that money elsewhere right now.

Well i guess it comes down to this, how much power do u think i'll loose by sticking with the 3" as opposed to the 4" ?

Lots of really good points in here guyz, thanks for the reply's.. However i'm still up in the air with my descion

 

Just keep this in mind..............

The idea is to have ZERO back pressure !!!!!

Bigger pipe has the "potential" to flow more volume. However, if the motor cant push out that volume at 100% velocity, then the pipe is too big.

The big 4" mufflex system CAN flow ALOT of volume, but the more velocity you start killing, the more back pressure you create.

With that said, the 4" systems WILL hurt exhaust velocity on most N/A applications (Even a 427 MTI stroker LS-6 ) !!

I've personally seen an MTI customer having his stroker car dyno'd. It made 12 RWHP LESS with the 4" mufflex than it did with the 3" Corsa cat-back.

Why? Because he killed some velocity which created more back pressure, thus hurting performance.

A good system to use for a motor with Longtube headers is the 3.5" mufflex cat-back with Flow race or Spintech muffler (Single in, single out system). ALot of people that I know are going or have gone to the 3.5" system. That's also the one I'm going with too!

Just my 2 pennies.

Mike

 

I didnt read everybodys post so Ill just say this..


If you have 600hp, chances are you are not street legal and are probably not even close. 600hp out of a small block or big block is a lot, and I say 2 inch pimaries into 3 1/2 collectors in a form of LT's and then dump that crap off to the side.

 

werd, 4inch belongs on a diesel truck!(mmm 11 sec diesel trucks...ahhhh)
At that point it would just be better and cooler to go duals. Id say you would have to be deep into 12's and 11's to see much restriction out of the 3 inch exhaust. Think of how many 4th gens are running 12's and 11's on there 3 inch loud mouths?

 

Well, heres my .02.

I bought my whole exhaust system used:

Hooker coated 2210s
3" y-pipe
Mufflex/Spintech 3.5 system after y-pipe

The previous owner of this system put down 560rwhp with a blower on a 350 motor.

Well there you go, maybe it means something or maybe it doesnt, but it is facts.

 

I didnt know there were legalitys of how much HP you can have??
No emission checks here, Ive seen some pretty crazy alky BB cars driving the streets...

I voted duals up top, although a system designed specifically for the car that bolts in would be awesome, even if you lost 15hp!

 

2" primaries is insane for an N/A small block. Not to mention a custom set of headers would run ya like $2000

 

You can get a set of 1 7/8" or 2" stahl headers tacked together (you have to finish welding) for most applications for not much more $$$ than a set of hooker super comps.

 

If you said:
The motor made 560rwhp with single 3" and made the same power with single 4" or dual 3", it would mean something.

Swapping to dual 3" might be worth 20 rwhp on a motor making that much power.

 

Oh no not this clown again: What is it with you and dumb comments? How do you dream this stuff up?

I am very certain that my post meant something to somebody so take a hike pal!

 

Before another dual vs single arguement starts I'm gonna have to say 95% of the time duals will produce more power than single exhaust on a decent HP car BUT there are always a few combos out there that will seem to work better with smaller exhaust. There is so many variables and whatnot so if single 3" works for you then so be it, that doesnt mean it'll work good for the next guy.

Go to a race track and check out what all the 10 second cars are running ...I would bet the bank they're all running duals.

 

You cannot prove anything if you do not have a control in your experiment.

 

Lets not jump to assumptions here, my motor specs are on my web page go check them out.. The exact same motor is in two other cars in my area, my friend Kirk (66 Nova, 10.40 1/4mile) and my cousin (73 Nova, 10.53 1/4mile w/ 10.25:1 compression being the only difference). I was in disbelieve as well that a carb'd SBC with 11:1 could put down mid 10's and 600+hp but its proven now 3 times here in my area, all street driven (170-180* temps all the time, VERY good manners), and all 3 motor combo's were designed by Mike Janis (also a professional IHRA Pro Modified Champion, i'm dating his neice ) at Jan-Cen Automotive, see the link, or the one in my sig.

With that out of the way, I may just stick with my 3" Borla for now, when my cars all done and put together i'm going to have it put on the chassis dyno just for kicks, i'll see what kinda power it puts down and if i see a huge loss from my engine dyno results to my chassis dyno results i will switch the exhaust to a bigger one Hows that sound..

 

I am running a zz4 style motor,(zz4 cam roller rockers, 64cc camel humps, with a mildly modded tpi with the flowtech 1 1/2 primaries, i have a single 3 inch pipe to the 80 series flowmaster. I love the sound of my flowmaster, but I want a little more tone, or maybe just deeper sound. would running 2.5 duals help?

 

I think this is a good idea. If you have other areas of your car you could still beef up, i think you should do them first. Your borla (open) shouldnt hurt you too much, and this would let you focus on other aspects that could be helped. Idk what you have for suspension, but looking at your pic in your sig i think slicks would help

cool car though, cant wait for my 383 stroker (couple years away though)

-chuck

 

That sig pic was taken when the car was bone stock.. Right now i have Eibach Drag Launch springs in the front and stock springs in the rear w/ airbags, QA1 shocks all around, Ford 9", Spohn torgue arm, lakewood LCAs And M/T ET Streets will be on the car soon after i get the motor in and running

 

if you serch for BADDEST305 he has a 434 ci sbc N/A running i think mid 10's with 2'' primary long tube headers ( i think there made by Stahl) he has 646 hp@ 6300rpm and 595 lbs of ft torque at the crank.

 

Here is my situation. I have hedmam long tubes that are 1-5/8" primarys. A custom 2-1/4" Y-pipe with cutouts going into a single 3" over the rear axle into a flowmaster muffler with dual outlets.

My car went 8.51 through the exhaust and uncapped it went 8.06 in the 1/8. The 8.51 even had a better 60' time. I talked to mufflex today and told them this. He recommended 2210's with there y-pipe and the 4" system. He told me of a car that went 10.40's through there exhaust and then they took the exhaust off for testing and it went 1/100 of a second faster and the mph stayed the same. He thinks the 1/100 came from the reduced weight.

I have a 406 that I intend to spray a 175 hp shot on and I want as close to open headers as possible. The 4" would give me the closest to that.

Also, for the dual setup...I was also thinking of this. Since ground clearance is an issue I was going to make my own set of duals using the spintech oval tubing. They have all different sizes. Also, burnsstainlees.com has oval tubing. It's all 2-1/4" tall I think.