Manifold removal suggestions?
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,408
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From: Western Maryland
Car: 82z28
Engine: 406
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Manifold removal suggestions?
Ok so im trying to put headers on my LG4.
I have all the bolts and studs attching the manifolds to the heads EXCEPT one stud. The problem is that the bolt part of the stud is too long to fit a standard depth socket on. But a deep socket wont fit on due to the proximity of the A/C-Heater Box.
What tool...or method will be the easiest to get this bolt off?
Would cutting a deepwell socket off give me enough room? Is it Easy to remove that plastic housing from the firewall? Is there a tool that will make this process easier?
Any tips or ideas you have would be greatly appreciated.
I have all the bolts and studs attching the manifolds to the heads EXCEPT one stud. The problem is that the bolt part of the stud is too long to fit a standard depth socket on. But a deep socket wont fit on due to the proximity of the A/C-Heater Box.
What tool...or method will be the easiest to get this bolt off?
Would cutting a deepwell socket off give me enough room? Is it Easy to remove that plastic housing from the firewall? Is there a tool that will make this process easier?
Any tips or ideas you have would be greatly appreciated.
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
soak it with PB blaster and then attack it with a socket. If you need to, cut or grind off the excess amount of the stud and gain more clearance that way. That's your best bet.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 13,758
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
I find it easiest to get that last bolt from under the car. As stated, PB blaster is your friend. I also found a more barbaric approach to breaking it loose. If you only have that one bolt left you can pull and and down on the manifold while spraying PB blaster on it. It will slowly loosen to the point where you won't have to strain your wrist turning the wrench in an uncomfortable posistion.
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Supreme Member

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,408
Likes: 2
From: Western Maryland
Car: 82z28
Engine: 406
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Thanks guys...its not the last bolt though...its the last stud...the second "bolt" from the back. the one thats really close to the big plastic box on the fire wall....i'll try from underneath
all of my bolts have unloosened rather easily..i havent needed the PB blaster i have..its just getting on the bolts thats giving me the problems.
all of my bolts have unloosened rather easily..i havent needed the PB blaster i have..its just getting on the bolts thats giving me the problems.
Last edited by blyth18md; Apr 11, 2005 at 06:51 PM.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
I'm trying to imagine what uses a stud back there. The only thing that comes to mind is the dipstick tube, which isn't the 2nd from the back bolt.
A cut-off deep well socket is probably the best bet.
A cut-off deep well socket is probably the best bet.
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,408
Likes: 2
From: Western Maryland
Car: 82z28
Engine: 406
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.23
...the braket the that holds the dipstick isnt also a manifold stud?
there was a nut..then the bracket..then another bolt?..or am i on the wrong bolt completely?
there was a nut..then the bracket..then another bolt?..or am i on the wrong bolt completely?
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
"Stud" is a bit of a misnomer. It's a bolt that has a stud sticking out of its head so you can bolt something else onto it.
The dipstick "bolt/stud" is indeed a manifold "bolt/stud". Remove the nut holding the dipstick tube, the next thing is the "bolt" that holds on the manifold. I'm just thinking it's not the 2nd from the back "bolt".
But, it's been a few years, my memory may be all wrong (like that's never happened before), and a '82 may be different than an '86 in that regard (I have no idea).
The dipstick "bolt/stud" is indeed a manifold "bolt/stud". Remove the nut holding the dipstick tube, the next thing is the "bolt" that holds on the manifold. I'm just thinking it's not the 2nd from the back "bolt".
But, it's been a few years, my memory may be all wrong (like that's never happened before), and a '82 may be different than an '86 in that regard (I have no idea).
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Which bolt is it from the front?
Chop saw, or cut-off wheel. I used the latter.
Chop saw, or cut-off wheel. I used the latter.
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Supreme Member

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,408
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From: Western Maryland
Car: 82z28
Engine: 406
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.23
its the fifth bolt front the front. Its the bolt/stud that the oil dipstick bracket mounts to. I took the first bolt off that retains the dipstick bracket and rotated the bracket off the bolt/stud.
The nut part of the stud/bolt that actually retains the manifold is what is tha Pain.
Midlength sockets at sears eh? sounds promising!
The nut part of the stud/bolt that actually retains the manifold is what is tha Pain.
Midlength sockets at sears eh? sounds promising!
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