I seen a car on here before that had the frame rails notched for the pipes anyone have the pictures or a link?

 

One of the cars on here does, because of Sphoon torque arm....

http://mysite.verizon.net/vze84hud/duals/

 

Hmm i tried to goto that site said it was locked.

 

Whoops, didnt try it myself. That sux....

 

Did anyone ever get information about this? I have the spohn cm and want to run true duals but I have a feeling I am going to need to notch the fram and I want to see how other people have done it in the past.
Thanks

 

Some advice, I work at a collision repair shop. Technically, our cars really don't have a frame persay, its mostly a few lays of thin steel and half formed rails of thin steel spot welded together with crumple zones placed in specific areas for the purposes of trying to save you in a collision. You cant just climb under there and start "notching your frame" so you can get something to fit under the car that it was not designed for. Whatever strength and rigidity you take out of the frame has to be put back in somehow and preferably to be able to still do what it was designed to do in a collision. You climb under your car and starting cutting and notching in the wrong spot and don't know what you are doing it could cost you your life if you should happen to wreck. Believe me, I've spent eight years building mine, I've spent the last two trying to figure out how to get true duals that fit nice with plenty of ground clearance. I have yet to do that. Just some advice, be careful about what you do underneath that car and don't just go off what someone tells you here, there are plenty of people on this site that seem to really know what they are talking about, and there are about the other 75 percent that I have read posts from who have no clue. If you feel that is your only option take it to a professional shop and talk to them first.

 

I knotched my sub frames for dual 3" exhaust... gave me alot of ground clearance. i wouldnt do it unless u have installed good subframe connectors (that attach infront of the knotch)

you could search my name and see my setup... either in here or in my suspension threads... think it started... super low and sexy as hell...or something bc i did lowering springs at the same time.

I actually just redid mine and ive posted pics recently

i posted here with 2 pics
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...-summit-x.html

pic i attached is where i knotched the frame... right infront of the trans cross member... whole thing sits higher than my deep trans pan. you can also kind of see the SFC i made that attaches farther forward (closer to the engine) so i didnt sacrifice the cars structure.

 

Notching your frame is not the way to go, as far as customblackbirds set up, with SFC support the body, but he has weakened the trans support and also his setup is totally illegal. If you want true dual exhaust, go to a custom exhaust shop and have it done.

Eric

 

Purpleformula. I dont know if you have ever seen a car with longtubes a tranny crossmember with the tq arm mounted to it... it doesnt matter who you bring it to, without notching the frame they will not be able to get you any ground clearance... notching the frame is the only way to do so. I was thinking about not notching it as much, and putting in a tube on top to reinforce the frame, which is why i am looking for pictures of setups that have done this already to give me an idea. Thanks blackbird

 

i agree with 1985WS6transam, have u ever gone to a custom fab exhaust shop and asked to do a true dual legal exhaust on a 3rd gen? they will laugh in your face. unless you put out some serious coin and go to a serious custom shop.

How exactly have a weakened the trans support? the frame that i knotched was 20 gauge steel and spot welded every 4inches to the car, wat i did when i knotched it was box the entire knotched area with 16 or 14 gauge steel and its fully welded. not to mention i threw a few tacks extra from the stock subframe to the body. if anything its stronger. and how much force does the tranny cross memeber need? im assuming not much since the metal it attaches to is 22 gauge steel, it only gets thicker about 6 inches from the tranny member and all they did was overlay 2 peices of steel and spot weld it together. also the trans doesnt use a stock tq arm, uses my new jegster tunnel mount and is bolted to the roll bar/sandwiched the tranny tunnel. trans also uses a poly bushing.

there is no issue with knotching the stock Sub frame at the front of the car as long as SFC are in place. knotching it and boxing it would actually prob make it stronger.

if i had the materials/ great welder i would have done things alil different but the car is solid and i can titer the car on 2 wheels. so weakend it MY A$$! id take my 300$ exhaust and raise u a 1000$ custom stock routed true dual exahust and it prob doesnt flow nearly as good as mine.

i say KNOTCH IT! and do something different

 

Anytime you notch something structural, it is weakened. Putting a lower plate over the notch would bring most of the rigidity back, but it will never be as strong as a complete rectangle

Thats true for any structural member, not necessarily 3rd gen related

Is is fine for your car? Debatable

I wouldnt suggest it as a sure-fire alternative to others though