Fabbing the side exhaust with plenty of clearance (aka NASCAR Boom Tubes)
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Fabbing the side exhaust with plenty of clearance (aka NASCAR Boom Tubes)
Here's a few pics snapped while fabbing the side exhaust (the morning I was leaving for the NFME event at Indy Raceway Park last May). It took about 3 hours...
http://www.skulte.com/gallery/view_album.p...AR-Side-Exhaust
I started with a take-off NASCAR exhaust from Muscle Motorparts in Huntersville, NC.
Next I raised the exhaust to the floorboards with the motorcycle jack, and clamped it in place
There was a lot of cutting involved, but I wanted to save as many good pieces as possible. Measure twice, cut once!
Tack welding the cut sections together. I clamped it to a bar, to ensure the parts were aligned.
I'd tack on one section, test fit, and then cut the next section.
Completed exhaust. It's not too obnoxious without a muffler, since the turbos quiet things down very well, but is loud for the street (fiance covers her ears whenever I downshift, he he he). Over the winter, I'll remove the 3.5" y-pipe, and run the drivers side to the other outlet, and probably run a pair of 3" mufflers. It was easier to leave the second exit in place for now, to keep the alignment.
Underside view. The ovalized piping really helps the ground clearance.
Side 1
Side 2
Plenty of ground clearance with the ovalized pipe.
http://www.skulte.com/gallery/view_album.p...AR-Side-Exhaust
I started with a take-off NASCAR exhaust from Muscle Motorparts in Huntersville, NC.
Next I raised the exhaust to the floorboards with the motorcycle jack, and clamped it in place
There was a lot of cutting involved, but I wanted to save as many good pieces as possible. Measure twice, cut once!
Tack welding the cut sections together. I clamped it to a bar, to ensure the parts were aligned.
I'd tack on one section, test fit, and then cut the next section.
Completed exhaust. It's not too obnoxious without a muffler, since the turbos quiet things down very well, but is loud for the street (fiance covers her ears whenever I downshift, he he he). Over the winter, I'll remove the 3.5" y-pipe, and run the drivers side to the other outlet, and probably run a pair of 3" mufflers. It was easier to leave the second exit in place for now, to keep the alignment.
Underside view. The ovalized piping really helps the ground clearance.
Side 1
Side 2
Plenty of ground clearance with the ovalized pipe.
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Two more pics (let me know if I should remove them, since it's 2 over the 10 limit. They're hosted on my site...)
Plenty of ground clearance.
Lime Rock Park had an 83 dBa sound rule, and I was concerned about passing it. Dave Zug and Mike Davis helped fab this baffle that was tack welded to the exhaust. It aimed the sound at the pavement, and it worked like a charm. Stuffing the exhaust with steel wool was our next temporary option, in case this didn't work.
Plenty of ground clearance.
Lime Rock Park had an 83 dBa sound rule, and I was concerned about passing it. Dave Zug and Mike Davis helped fab this baffle that was tack welded to the exhaust. It aimed the sound at the pavement, and it worked like a charm. Stuffing the exhaust with steel wool was our next temporary option, in case this didn't work.
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Andris, that's sick!! Nice job. Now that I'm back in CT I'll have to look you up to see if that's something that will work for my combo. Can I ask how you plan on tackling the good ol emissions test CT has?
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I like it but i think it'll look kinda wierd without exhaust on the other side that thing must be insanely loud
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I'm not sure on the ride height - it's got 175 lb springs in the back and 950's up front with Ground Control weight adjustable spring perches. I'd say it's similar to the Eibach Pro-kits, as far as ride height, and not as low as the Sportlines. Rear tires are 315 35 R 17's or 275 40 R 17's depending which set of wheels is on there (street or race tires). I'll get some video & sound clips when I get some more dyno testing finished throughout this winter. I'm sure I'll need a good aux mic, as the video camera's microphone will probably start clipping with something this loud. I've got more pics at www.skulte.com/gallery (Z28tt and Misc) as well as some at my new blog page (www.skulte.com/z28tt).
Last edited by askulte; 12-03-2006 at 04:57 PM. Reason: Added more info
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I stripped the sound out of the dyno videos. Enjoy!
1.3 meg mp3, right click, save-as: http://www.skulte.com/video/bristoldyno_sound.mp3
1.3 meg mp3, right click, save-as: http://www.skulte.com/video/bristoldyno_sound.mp3
Last edited by askulte; 03-08-2007 at 03:14 AM.
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I'd love to hear it, but none of my players will play it, and the Muscle Motorparts page shows nothing at all, on it's NASCAR parts page.
Imagine your car WITHOUT the turbos, acting as "mufflers"! If its loud now....
Imagine your car WITHOUT the turbos, acting as "mufflers"! If its loud now....
Last edited by Stephen; 03-08-2007 at 02:32 AM.
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Works great now. Thanks! Sounds great! You should do a drive-by video of it. For some reason, a video seems to have more "impact". Maybe it's just an audio/video thing.
I found the .drf dyno runs, but no idea what opens a .drf file, nor did a search reveal what could open a .drf file.
I found the .drf dyno runs, but no idea what opens a .drf file, nor did a search reveal what could open a .drf file.
Last edited by Stephen; 03-08-2007 at 03:24 AM.
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The dynojet viewer opens the .drf (dynojet run file). I'll edit the post to mention that.
It's the same 399 cubed AFR210 headed 236/230 on 113 cammed smallblock. Much of the sound clip was during the steady state tuning of the fuel map (you can hear the dyno load the engine near the end of the clip), so it's not the usual 4 second blasts on the dyno. I built it to have some street manners (some Dynomax Ultraflows will be added as well), so the cam/heads aren't too wild (AFR 210's & 236/230 cam). Power peaks around 5700 rpm, and on 4 psi, has over 400 ft-lbs from when the dyno run started at 2500 to 6000 rpm (drops to 300 ft-lbs at 6500). More boost will fix that.
It's the same 399 cubed AFR210 headed 236/230 on 113 cammed smallblock. Much of the sound clip was during the steady state tuning of the fuel map (you can hear the dyno load the engine near the end of the clip), so it's not the usual 4 second blasts on the dyno. I built it to have some street manners (some Dynomax Ultraflows will be added as well), so the cam/heads aren't too wild (AFR 210's & 236/230 cam). Power peaks around 5700 rpm, and on 4 psi, has over 400 ft-lbs from when the dyno run started at 2500 to 6000 rpm (drops to 300 ft-lbs at 6500). More boost will fix that.
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Spent 4 hours cutting down 20 minutes of footage to 4 minutes last night.
Here's the end result:
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...46413965&hl=en
This is just the first run and some steady state tuning off the street... I'll get the other runs done tonight, but it'll give a better idea of what the car sounds like.
Andris
Here's the end result:
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...46413965&hl=en
This is just the first run and some steady state tuning off the street... I'll get the other runs done tonight, but it'll give a better idea of what the car sounds like.
Andris
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Here's one place... Dr. Gas Pretty cool tips, round to oval transitions, etc.
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Yea Andris, that’s exactly my point… very tame sounding for that much cam, and nothing much to quiet it down. I would expect more of a lope to the idle.
Interesting. Do you think that the fairly short power band is the result of the low boost and the engine will wind up higher with more boost or do you think something else is going on? I’ve been noticing that some turbocharged engines tend to make power at a lower rpm then you would otherwise expect, and I haven’t quite figured out a pattern to why some do and some don’t.
Interesting. Do you think that the fairly short power band is the result of the low boost and the engine will wind up higher with more boost or do you think something else is going on? I’ve been noticing that some turbocharged engines tend to make power at a lower rpm then you would otherwise expect, and I haven’t quite figured out a pattern to why some do and some don’t.
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Yea Andris, that’s exactly my point… very tame sounding for that much cam, and nothing much to quiet it down. I would expect more of a lope to the idle.
Interesting. Do you think that the fairly short power band is the result of the low boost and the engine will wind up higher with more boost or do you think something else is going on? I’ve been noticing that some turbocharged engines tend to make power at a lower rpm then you would otherwise expect, and I haven’t quite figured out a pattern to why some do and some don’t.
Interesting. Do you think that the fairly short power band is the result of the low boost and the engine will wind up higher with more boost or do you think something else is going on? I’ve been noticing that some turbocharged engines tend to make power at a lower rpm then you would otherwise expect, and I haven’t quite figured out a pattern to why some do and some don’t.
I think in my case, the power starts dropping off significantly by 6000 rpms, but the torque is within 50 ft-lbs from 3500-5500 rpms, which to me is a pretty broad powerband (but just doesn't have the top end of an NA racing engine), and much easier to drive for autox/road racing. I think a bigger cam, solid lifters, bigger heads, tubular turbo manifolds, and bigger turbo would extend the usable power from a 6200 rpm shift point to another 1000 more rpms. The reason I didn't go that way is that the stress on the rotating assembly from a 6500 to 7500 redline is a huge increase, and I didn't want to go to lightweight pistons/rods/wristpins, which might not like the huge cylinder pressures from big boost. I thought a 6200 rpm big boost engine would be more reliable than a 7500 low boost engine that needs a valvetrain refresh every year, to make the same power (although, the appeal of a heads/cam LS1 & 200 lb weight savings on the nose is tough to resist!). If you have Engine Analyzer, try modeling a 500 hp NA engine, and then sticking a restrictive exhaust on it to see how the power curve changes - I bet most of the change will be at over 5000 rpm...
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Re: Fabbing the side exhaust with plenty of clearance (aka NASCAR Boom Tubes)
Man, that's bad a%%! Finally, someone used boom tubes & posted pics & vids! Awesome job man. Quick question, off topic though....what's the name of the song at the end of the vid on google? Thanks!
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Re: Fabbing the side exhaust with plenty of clearance (aka NASCAR Boom Tubes)
Thanks - The song is Pedal to the Metal, by Kazzer.
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Re: Fabbing the side exhaust with plenty of clearance (aka NASCAR Boom Tubes)
Sick...absolutely sick. Did I notice NY plates on the car? Curios on the street legalness (if that's a word) in CT? I'm going to have to stop by to check that car out.
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Re: Fabbing the side exhaust with plenty of clearance (aka NASCAR Boom Tubes)
Dr. Gas for those boom tubes. They even have boom tubes as mufflers built-in. Hope your wallet is deep though, for those!
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Re: Fabbing the side exhaust with plenty of clearance (aka NASCAR Boom Tubes)
thats the best sounding/looking side exhaust i've seen/heard!!
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Re: Fabbing the side exhaust with plenty of clearance (aka NASCAR Boom Tubes)
Nice work....I fab'd something remotely similiar to that for a buddies 8 second pro street nova. Fabricated the oval piping and used a little different idea as to how you switch from the round outlet of the muffler to oval. I can't freekin load them as they are bitmap pics.....ahhhhhhhhhhhh
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Re: Fabbing the side exhaust with plenty of clearance (aka NASCAR Boom Tubes)
Open them up in MSPaint, then do a "Save As", and choose jpeg as the file type. Easy. Then you can post them if you want.
If you have trouble, feel free to send them to me, and I can whip it up for you.
If you have trouble, feel free to send them to me, and I can whip it up for you.
Last edited by Stephen; 03-31-2007 at 12:27 PM.
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Re: Fabbing the side exhaust with plenty of clearance (aka NASCAR Boom Tubes)
I'm on it! Thanks
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Re: Fabbing the side exhaust with plenty of clearance (aka NASCAR Boom Tubes)
I like the side tips, but not the price.
Maybe I could take a piece of tubing, split it down the center into twp pieces, then use two pieces of flat steel to create an oval tip, to the width I wanted...Hmmmm....A 45 degree nend should get it out to the side pretty good, if I position it right.
Maybe I could take a piece of tubing, split it down the center into twp pieces, then use two pieces of flat steel to create an oval tip, to the width I wanted...Hmmmm....A 45 degree nend should get it out to the side pretty good, if I position it right.
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Re: Fabbing the side exhaust with plenty of clearance (aka NASCAR Boom Tubes)
Steve...your a star! The reason I did this is that the 4" exhaust couldn't go over the rear suspension and because of how low the car is, it couldn't come out the side. The solution was to cut off the outlet ends of the mufflers and weld on a new outlet that was 2 1/2" high X 7" wide and offset to the bottom of the muffler to clear the frame rails and rocker panels.Here's how I did an oval exhaust. I am a toolmaker (that helps alot) and ran my own Midas shop for 14 years so if you combine the two......... I took some 2 1/2" mandrel J bends and wire edm'd them in half. This gave me the two halves I needed for my oval pipe. I them cut the back end right off of the 4" flowmaster and used our water jet cutter to make some flanges the exhact same shape as the muffler. So now the outlet on the muffler is 2 1/2" high X 7" wide instead of 4" round. I welded one half of my waterjet flange (with tapped holes in it) to the end of the muffler I cut off. The other flange has clearnce holes for the tapped holes on the muffler. I then cut and tacked together the outside (rounded) shapes of the tailpipes. After the outline was correct I then cut pieces of 16 gauge flatstock to fit in between the two outside (rounded) shapes of the tailpipes. Four hours of tig welding later and some soft pad grinding wheels voila! Total about 18 hours of work between altering the mufflers and fab'ing and welding the tails. Out for ceramic coating and BAM....off to Cobo hall for the autorama! Yes I know not everyone has access to this type off machinery (the water jet is slick!) but if your in the Windsor Ontario Canada area and need an exhaust...look me up. Hope you like.
Last edited by Rob Wade; 03-31-2007 at 12:52 PM.
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Re: Fabbing the side exhaust with plenty of clearance (aka NASCAR Boom Tubes)
More nova oval pipes
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Re: Fabbing the side exhaust with plenty of clearance (aka NASCAR Boom Tubes)
Glad I could help! Feel free to ship me one for my GTA for "Photo Services Rendered", and we'll call it even.
They look slick. Did you cut off the end plate of the muffler, or just attach the oval pipe, to the existing end of the muffler?
They look slick. Did you cut off the end plate of the muffler, or just attach the oval pipe, to the existing end of the muffler?
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Re: Fabbing the side exhaust with plenty of clearance (aka NASCAR Boom Tubes)
LOL! That sounds fair! Yes I did cut the end plate right off. By cutting the end plates off I was able to make that cut on an angle so that when I welded on the new endcap it was alreading starting the "turn" towards the outside of the car. The flanges (4) I made are the exact same shape (4 1/4 x 8 if I remember right) as the muffler if your looking from the end. Its just a matter of sawing off the hole end cap, then welding on the "new and improved" end cap. If you look at the pic of the muffler/tailpipe assembled on the pick-up tailgate look to the right and you see a bit of what the ends of the muffler look like now. I made 4 flanges.....one gets welded to the muffler and one gets welded to the tailpipe. The muffler one has tapped holes so you can bolt the tailpipe on. This new hole in the endcap gives you your starting point for the oval pipe instead of having to transition from round to oval.
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Re: Fabbing the side exhaust with plenty of clearance (aka NASCAR Boom Tubes)
Since I have the Texas Speed & Performance Rumbler LS1 cat back, I'd hafta trabsition from the bullet-style muffler, to a wider oval. I could keep my muffler, no problem, just the transition would be harder.
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Re: Fabbing the side exhaust with plenty of clearance (aka NASCAR Boom Tubes)
Or what you could do is find a shop with a pipe bender and someone with some skills to operate it, then open up the outlet of that muffler (you would be surpised how far it will stretch) and squish it to get your "oval" shape. It would take a little messing around with some test pieces to see how much you need to open it to get the oval shape (just cut off little pieces of 2 1/2" pipe...that is the muffler size correct......and practice with those) you want but it can defenately be done. Once you have your oval starting point you can buy/fabricate your oval piping as you need it.
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Re: Fabbing the side exhaust with plenty of clearance (aka NASCAR Boom Tubes)
I'd probably just spli some tubing in half, then use 2 triangular pieces to transision for round to wide oval. Make sense?
Chances are I'll never do it, but who knows? If I have it figured out ahead of time, I might.
Chances are I'll never do it, but who knows? If I have it figured out ahead of time, I might.
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Re: Fabbing the side exhaust with plenty of clearance (aka NASCAR Boom Tubes)
sweet thats all I can say
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Re: Fabbing the side exhaust with plenty of clearance (aka NASCAR Boom Tubes)
Killer work there Rob.
I’ve played with exactly the same idea, basically splitting a 3rd gen 3” intermediate pipe lengthwise and then adding a 2” section in the middle, but haven’t tried it because I just don’t see how I will keep things straight in 3 dimensions (your setup is basically flat)
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Re: Fabbing the side exhaust with plenty of clearance (aka NASCAR Boom Tubes)
Thanks guys. Crossfire you are right. Once you start adding in the 3rd dimension it gets pretty complicated. I think in the case of the 3rd gen suspension you would be farther ahead to lower the mounting point for the panhard bar at the frame and just fab up a rear pipe out of 4". As I look at Stephens Texas Speed rear, since it is in multiple pieces you could probably split each piece one at a time but the final assembly would be tricky.
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Re: Fabbing the side exhaust with plenty of clearance (aka NASCAR Boom Tubes)
i got a little hard watching the video , man one sick bitch
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Re: Fabbing the side exhaust with plenty of clearance (aka NASCAR Boom Tubes)
#45
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Re: Fabbing the side exhaust with plenty of clearance (aka NASCAR Boom Tubes)
Nicer prices, but for a reason too...
"Note: All divided pipe and Boom Tubes are tac-welded only and require finish welding."
Fine for those of us that own our own welders, and can do it themselves. Others would still hafta incur more $$$ to take them somewhere, and have them finish welded. Either before, or during installation. Either way, more $$$.
But definately more reasonable.
"Note: All divided pipe and Boom Tubes are tac-welded only and require finish welding."
Fine for those of us that own our own welders, and can do it themselves. Others would still hafta incur more $$$ to take them somewhere, and have them finish welded. Either before, or during installation. Either way, more $$$.
But definately more reasonable.
#46
Re: Fabbing the side exhaust with plenty of clearance (aka NASCAR Boom Tubes)
yeah i figured since you have to get it welded together anyway, you might as well go with the one that needs finish welding, but for those without a welder, the drgas ones would probly be the way to go.
Last edited by RMerritts; 04-03-2007 at 06:19 PM.
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Re: Fabbing the side exhaust with plenty of clearance (aka NASCAR Boom Tubes)
Rob - That's gorgeous work! I love the overkill in making them (EDM'ing them in half! Geez!) It's one of the tools I miss when I was at Mallory.
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Re: Fabbing the side exhaust with plenty of clearance (aka NASCAR Boom Tubes)
Judgung by your pics, I guess only one of the outlets is functional, and the other tip is just there to provide looks?
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Re: Fabbing the side exhaust with plenty of clearance (aka NASCAR Boom Tubes)
Originally Posted by Andris
Over the winter, I'll remove the 3.5" y-pipe, and run the drivers side to the other outlet, and probably run a pair of 3" mufflers. It was easier to leave the second exit in place for now, to keep the alignment.
It's embarrassing having a "fake" tip on there, but for now, makes sense. I could cut it off, and then have to weld it back on again a few months later. I might, just to save a few lbs weight for now...