Dose anyone know of a good set of headers or extractors that will fit a RHD 84 Trans-Am with little or no modifications. i want to get more out of my system without having to take the engine apart.

in advance to anyone that can help me.

Just thought id add my Cat has a 3" in 2.5" out so the headers need to have a 3" end to connect to the cat

You might note the stickies at the top of the page for more exhaust info. Many members on this site believe that the Hooker 2055 headers are the best bang for the buck.

JamesC

yeah but im just wondering if the Hooker 2055 headers will fit in to an engine bay that has been converted to right hand drive (RHD) because alot don't fit.

I doubt you'll find any designed for right hand drive. It's either gonna end up that you'll have to make a custom set, or just settle for a 3" catback ....

yeah that is a thought but i was quoted $1,300 AUD for a good set of custom stainles headers.
Thats a little out of my price range, but the mild steel was only $750 AUD.
so i duno if it is worth it when i can get a set of block huggers with 2 1/2 in. collector tubes, 1 1/2 in. primaries, and 3/16 in. flanges (will fit RHD) for $390 AUD. dose anyone know how good these block huggers are because im thinking that there my best bet atm.

Got any underhood pictures? It'll get everyone a much better idea of what's going on.

Its a lill messy coz i got a leaking rocker cover sad thing is it has new gaskets and the face of the covers are not twisted just wrong shape. (Getting alloy ones soon)

and yes the plug leads do hit the steering colum, im looking for angled plug caps for it.

Which way does the exhaust route under the car? On our LHD cars, the right side floor is higher to accomodate the catalytic converter, which is right under your seat on that side of the car. If yours routes the same way, then the 2055's should fit. If not, then you're looking at a custom y-pipe at the very least. They should clear the steering shaft.

Yeah the cat is on the right side under my seat,
So how mutch is a set of 2055's gona cost me and is it an engine out job to fit them? Because i got to do the engine mounts any way im allso looking at fitting a 300HP 327 i got sitting in my shed it came out of a mates vet showcar with over $8,000 in recepts, he put a all alloy EFI 454 in it and didn't want the 327 coz he was moving to a different city so i offerd him $500 and he took it. the only reason it is not already in my T.A is because i drive it every day and can't afford to have it off the road for a month or so, pluss i work 6 days a week @ 10+ hours per day and i got a fiance so there goes all my spare time

You can put them in while the engine is in, but you'll most likely have to lift the engine up to do it. If the engine is coming out, then I found it a simple matter to bolt them up to the engine first (without the y-pipe), then install the engine, then install the y-pipe. You might run into issues doing that with right hand drive, but it's worth a shot. When I put poly mounts in I found the right side collector flange hit the suspension A-arm, which required trimming before final fit (I'm sure Hooker had a 3rd gen with sagging rubber mounts when they prototyped the 2055's).

Got a picture of the cockpit? Never seen what a RHD 3rd gen looks like.

I wanted to replace the engine mounts earler but the right one under the steering colum behind the fuel pump in front of the starter and above the suspension arm is realy hard to get to, it allmost looks like an engine out job for the mount on its own and there is almost no rubber left on it.
The guy that had the car before me didn't do it and i haven't had a chance to but i got a new set of em sitting in my room (with a new gearbox mount).

How do these things come out anyway it looks hard? and yeah ill get you some pics.

in the 8 months i have had this car i have had a fue large bills and only got to drive it for like 4 months. have a look at my Blog ( http://84transam.blogspot.com ) go right to the bottom to see the problems. the guy that had it before me didn't look after this car.

Replacing the chassis engine mounts is one of the dreaded parts of the 3rd gen hobby. A search will back that up.

How's that for encouragement?

I FEEL HEAPS MOTIVATED!!!! (to drive it down to the mechanics).

well i guess it will be one of the jobs i will have over the 3 weeks i got off work, im taking the heads off to do the valve stem seals so i guess its gona be a fun holiday.

got a nother question for ya, the part of the exhaust that goes from the LHS to the RHS is crushed into a D shape (it was like it when i got the car) will this be killing power from to mutch restriction it is almost 1/3 of the pipes diamiter that is crushed and about 7 inchs long.

Hey These are the pics of the cab
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...7/Image009.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...7/Image005.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...7/Image004.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...7/Image000.jpg

also a warning to all reading this as i learnt today DON'T watch youre tach when driving past a cop.... i got a $280 fine for doing 82K in a 60K zone, I just wanted the little red light to come on! (speco tach coz my OEM one is stuffed)

Venom,
Let me know if you still need header info. I just got the pontiworld.com.au headers (made by Summit Racing in the states, same as Flowtech i believe). Apparantly these fit 95% of the time. They are about $90USD but the freight is pretty expensivre so i got em from Pontiworld. I'm fitting em in a couple of weeks...

Yeah, let us know how well they work and if you needed to do anything to them.
Id like to upgrade my current set.

Thanks!

Hears a solution......get a set of block huggers..make sure they fit...then cut off the collectors and extend them down until your collector flange is a the same location as a set of long tubes. Its much easier to fasten your exhaust when the flange isn't half way up the side of the block. I did a set for my TPI powered jag. Pics on this thread.... Gear Drive with TPI and Who is running an L69 with TPI ?