hung up on the drivers side of this install, i have the engine oil cooler lines disconnected and out of the way. However the block that they plug into (the oil sending unit??) is in the way of the header sliding in.

i already have the motor jacked up, but the piece highlighted in the picture needs to come out.

does it just thread out because if it does im screwed, theres no way i can spin that 360 degrees without unbolting hte transmission.

 

i dont have the factory oil cooler, but with the one that im using, the piep nipple in the center of the adapter, hold the adapter to the block. there should be a hex on it right above the threads, grab it with a wrench or socket and unscrew it, then the adapter should crop right off

having fun yet? I just had to cut my SLP y pipe all apart to make it work with my new motor.

no boot on the clutch fork eh?

 

lol why is there supposed to be a boot covering the slave cylinder and the clutch fork? i wouldnt know any better.

ya i double posted this and got that tip already, theres not much to grab on to and cracked it loose but was damaging it with an adjustable wrench, ill go grab the proper size socket or wrench tommorow.

what kind of oil cooler are you running? people say you cant use the factory oil cooler with these LT's, im sure i could make it work but if theres a better way i might invest a couple bucks.

i am actually having fun now, now that i know i can unbolt that tommorow and HOPEFULLY have the headers bolted up in about 15 minutes tops, thats when the fun of putting everything back together starts tho lol

 

you need the boot that goes on the fork and seals up the belhousing, or else you can get crape in the bellhousing and on your clutch.

Im just using a sandwich adapter with 1/2 ports and AN hose to a big oil cooler i have up front. the adapter is about the same diameter as the oil filter, dont know if that will clear the headers or not, will have to see your pics of the headers in the car to tell.

 

so firstly i messed up the starter somehow, took it apart a little bit and now the motor wont crank lol

Now most importantly, here are the pics of the oil cooler, the back of the header flange still needs to come down a hair there is a break line in the way, but you can see how the tube is right infront of one of the coolant lines, some people say they got around this, i would be interested to see how.



Now for all the **** i broke, i crushed in the oil pan because the block of wood on it slipped on the jack, its not as bad as it seemed when i was initially freaking out about it, but still sucks.



Not even sure what this is, apparently if you jack up the motor the valve cover hits here, didnt realize till it was too late. Luckily it just broke the cover so i just need to grab one of those and figure out how it installs properly

 

Wiper Motor.

Man that sucks, arn't LT's fun?

 

lol i never planned on installing lt's thats the issue

hah ya didnt know what that was for, thats good tho not critically important

theres an awful lot of wires and **** to make your freakin wipers move back and forth

 

okay having more issues now, seems the number 4 tube on the passenger side is hitting the k-member, and i cant get the top of the flange at the head to come flush with the heads. Not sure what to do now, this is stupid if the tube was just bent a little bit more and theres tons of room for it to be, it would clear no problem.