Im trying to install my new headers (2055) on my 305 and have a few questions.

1. how do you reuse the alternator support
2. what is the sensor under the passenger side header (on the block)? it seems to be broken

thanks in advance

 

need a little more information. what kind of headers? what kind of block - engine. headers with air injection. a little help here.

 

sorry i was in a rush they are hooker 2055 and its a 305. with air injection

 

for the alt. & A/C support i used stock bolts for the brackets , along with a stack of 3/8" washers . next day picked up some 3/8" id s/s tube , cut to length , replaced washers , looks good . good luck .

 

thanks for the quick response but when i try to put the stock bolt in on the alt side the header gets in the way. i was thinking of shortening it a bit maybe

 

forgot you asked about broken sensor . if it's between the 2 rear plugs it's the fan switch . you should have a single lead wire hanging some place below . easy/cheap to replace . good luck .

 

Just wondering if that part has a lever attached to it? Wondering what it is and if I will need when i put my headers in. Sorry to interrupt the conversation

Thanks

 

ok good to know what it is. so i assume the fans wont turn on without it? and i was also wondering what cheaper plug wires would work?
sorry lots of questions

 

coolant temp sensor if you mean in the back (at least on my tbi) and I could not reuse my support.

 

Hey fellow Minnesotan! Reading the thread "those with hooker 2055s come on in" should help greatly. Here's what i did for my install. (of 2055s)

Once i got all the old junk off, including the dipstick, i shoved paper towels in the exhaust ports. then i took some 400 grit sandpaper and smoothed the heads real nice. BE SURE TO CLEAN ALL THREADS VERY GOOD!!! the old manifold on the pass side uses a different bolt hole then the headers, so the hole that the header bolt goes into was full of crap. Once you got everything cleaned up go ahead and put your headers in and bolt them tight going from the center to the out side. I did not use the alternator support nor the a/c compressor support. I really dont see how the alt. or a/c will move without the extra brackets. The sensor on the pass side head is for your fans, the one on the drivers side is the temp gauge (IIRC). Just read through that thread i told you about, most all your questions will be answered

 

thaks sooo much. love to see minnesotans on here! i was thinking of ditching the alt brace. only problem i have now it getting a plug wrench on the plugs twords the rear. any tips?

 

Of course theres a tip for that! I learned this on here aswell, soo much info on this site its crazy.

Take your common spark plug socket, and cut about a 1" x .5" slot down the side of it. This modified socket allows you to put it on the plug sideways to clear the header, then you just slide it on the rest of the way and tighten.

 

wow good idea. well i have everything bolted up just need to get the cat off the old y pipe . this should be fun haha

 

if you have any other ?'s just ask. for plug wires i would say at least 8mm and make sure they are all 90* boots. as long as you keep them out of the way you should be fine.

 

If the sensor is in the head, its for the fans....if its the one in the blockthan its the knock sensor. A bad fan switch should run the fans all the time when the key is on. The purpose of the braces are to take stress off the main brackets....without them you will probably at sometime have bolts and/or brackets breaking. Very common on the pickups, very similar serp belt setups.

 

The heads should come with a bag of hardware including the sleeves to reuse the braces. These reused the factory manifold bolts

Drivers is hard to see


Clear view of the spacers on the pass side


For plugs, get some Accel header plugs, they are about 1/2" shorter

Tool, hacksaw 1/2" off a cheap sparkplug socket and use a wrench on the back of it. You shouldnt have to slot it, but it wont hurt if you do

Wires: 90 Chevy 1500 truck wires. If you get the premium set they are 8mm
One wire will be a few inches too long, just tuck it behind the distributor. All others are perfect length and 90* boots

 

ok great thanks guys. i got all the braces back on. i feel much better now that they are. also got new plug wires with 90* boots. i now have (kinda have always) a small rough idle. anything that i could look at to smooth it out.

 

Make sure your wires are all on right. When i put my headers on and cured the coating i used a laser thermometer and 2 cylinders where only 80* lol. switched the wires and it was 500*

 

took them off one at a time so i should be alright. hopefully