Hey I have done some reading and searching on this, and it seems like it will fit what I want to do. But I am only 17, and was wondering how hard it is to put this kit together and put back on the car??

I have had some experience welding with a mig welder. And I am pretty mechanically inclined (father was a mechanic for several years also). I am also trying to get my car done for spring break.

So if any one has done this and can tell a difficulty level, and if it is a plug and play kind of thing, (just put on ground and weld). I would also like to use dyno max's bullet mufflers, how hard would it be to put those on with it???

Just your opinions or advice.

Thanks Chris

 

Any one, anything??????????????

 

my buddy has one. im prettyr sure he just assembled it piece by piece in the car front to back. said it wasnt too bad to do

 

I'm working on installing it on my Camaro right now. So far I have gotten it all in place back to the over-the-axle pipes only to find out my passenger front wheel is hitting the front pipe before it gets to full lock when the wheel is turned to the right. I had to do some creative cutting and welding to re-bend the pipe so it clears the tire. I plan on getting some pics posted up at some point on the install. I just haven't gotten far enough with it yet to justify starting the thread. Hopefully tonight and tomorrow night I can get a lot of progress made.

As for the Dynomax bullets, there should be plenty of room in the back behind the rear axle with some minor modifications to the kit. I was planning on installing some glasspacks(Thrush probably) in the pipes as they run back the transmission tunnel if they will fit.

I don't recommend assembling it off the car and welding it up then installing it. I am having to do a lot of test fitting and playing around to keep as much ground clearance as possible. Also, the way the kit is designed, some of the exhaust clamps double as mounts for the hangers so you would need to factor that into the assembly as well. If you want to assemble it on the car and get everything right, then take it off to weld it up it shouldn't be a problem though.

Another thing to consider is whether you have/want subframe connectors. This kit will not fit well with most if not all aftermarket subframe connector kits. I had already planned on making my own so that wasn't an issue for me.

 

shouldent be too bad...id just get a welder if u can get one but do not weld it before you put it on b/c it has to go over the rear axle if i remember right....

 

Thank you, that is exactly what i was looking for. When installing it, could you just put the headers on, then start tacking it place. then once it is all tacked and put together take it off and then do some good welds?? I only have two jack stands and a set of ramps so i wont be able to do to much under the car.

 

Here is my experience so far installing this kit:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...l-exhaust.html

 

If you don't wrap the pipe, and want to avoid a potential rattle, install a steel wool cushion between the shield and the down pipe.

 

Actually, the shield and the down pipe don't make any noise. The only rattles I get from the system are where the pipes go over the rear axle. I had to position them so one is slightly lower than than the other one and when I go over potholes and speed bumps the axle comes up and hits the lower pipe. Its hit it so hard the pipe is now an oval shape. I am planning on pulling the rear end this winter to swap in a 4th gen disc rear so I'm going to try and rework the routing somewhat.

The steel wool is something I thought of to cushion the blow and eliminate the noise, but I want to eliminate the cause of the problem.

 

Just remember before you put dual exhaust on a 3rd gen....

If it is a street car, a true dual exhaust qualifies as tampering with Federal Emissions & your car should not pass State Inspection, unless you know a way to get a sticker illegally or your local inspection people are just plain lazy or ignorant & don't care about paying fines or keeping their jobs.

What state are you in?

 

Or you carefully read your state's inspection laws and know the loopholes.

For example:

1 - cars registered as classics are exempt from Emissions Inspections in my state. That includes both visual and tailpipe.

2 - Cars registered normally(non-classic/non-antique) are not required to pass an Emissions Inspection if they are driven less than 5k miles annually and have been registered in the current owner's name for at least 1 year. This is what I did/am doing.

To answer your question though, I'm in PA.

About half of the counties in PA do not have any form of Emissions Inspection. Most of the rest have a visual and "gas-cap" test only(that's me!). The remainder do have tailpipe testing, but those areas only include Philly and parts of Pittsburgh.

 

Yeah...You can register a car as a Classic to get out of Emissions Testing BUT.....

Texas is the same way. Only certain counties requires testing. But the parts still have to be there, to pass the VISUAL portion. In Visual, they still look for the catalytic converter/smog pump/EGR/etc. No cat/missing any of those parts = no pass/no sticker.

And Classic Registration also limits you on the number of miles you can drive the car & when/where you can drive the car. Like not to & from work/grocery shopping/weekend date, etc.

My wife was the head Supervisor at the Texas Department of Public Safety, for the division that watched over all the Inspection stations in Texas. I'm very aware of the all the loopholes. I'm also very aware of how limited they are.

Only way to get legal true duals on a 3rd gen here in Texas, would be a dual cat. with dual cat-back pipes. But both cats would still have to be located in the OEM location, not 1 per side.


Good luck!

 

I didn't like the limitaions on classic registration that's why I didn't go that route. I DD the car all summer long. In PA however, both cases I mentioned exempt you from all emissions testing. That includes visual.

You could do a dual cat setup with this exhaust system as it follows the stock routing, but it would be real tight. The actual fabrication of it wouldn't be difficult, but I would think you would lose some ground clearance in the process. And subframe connectors would be impossible. As it on my car, I'm going to have to custom-fab the connectors(which I was gonna do regardless) and I'll have to use rectangular tube instead of square to get it to tuck between the exhaust and floorboard so I don't lose any ground clearance. I have to go over some pretty big humps at the end of my street. They aren't technically speed bumps, but that's only cause they aren't painted yellow with warning signs.

 

Hi topher1316. Can you input some photos here so that we can see how hard to install it in your car.