Dueling73s

iTrader: (4)

Yes, they said they havent had any reports of issues and wanted a pic. I sent them the attached pic of the #8 cyl exhaust port today. All the bolts are in the header flange except the 2 for the #8 Cyl. The outer hole is shown in the pic. You can see the misalignment and to the right of the hole can just see the exhaust port.

HawkZ28

iTrader: (2)

That almost looks like a warped flange- I had a set of headers like that once, but they were pretty trashed from the PO. With all the material removed from the flanges could have happened when they welded up the primaries (?).

What did they say- are they going to take care of you? Who was the vendor if you don't mind me asking- racingpartsdepot?

Dueling73s

iTrader: (4)

Flange warpage might have something to do with it, it is hard to tell. The gasket side is completely flat since it was ground after welding. When I put a straight edge on the opposite side of the flange it is evident that it was bowed in the middle which would have brought the outer tubes inward. Just not sure if that is the whole reason. Most of the holes were already slotted some when I got the headers so they must have known something was going in in the manufacturing process.

You are correct about the vendor. I havent heard anything from them though since I sent the pics. They probably are waiting for some response from OBX would be my guess.

Firebat

iTrader: (7)

What size are the primaries?
Edit: Nevermind, answer found: 1.75"

Dueling73s

iTrader: (4)

Update. Last response from vendor was Friday. Wanted more pics to send to OBX. I sent a number of pics comparing the OBX header to a set of Hooker 2210s I have. Holes in OBX didnt line up with Hooker header and I think showed that the tube placemnt was a little off. No response since then. I guess I am starting to get a little impatient!

HawkZ28

iTrader: (2)

Hopefully OBX isn't a "we can do no wrong" type MFR. I represent a couple like that- it makes it a royal PITA to get an end user credit and/or taken care of. Makes it hard on guys like the vendor too- they're the Ahole because of OBX's stance. Either way, you need to be taken care of.

If worse comes to worst, you could always cut the flanges. I know it doesn't sound appealing, but at least then you won't be stuck with a $400 set of stainless garage art. That would allow the bolt holes and primaries to line up and make them usable.

Hope you get good news from them today!

Dueling73s

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the encouragement Hawk. I have been fairly easy on the vendor to date, assuming he was not getting much response from the mfr. But did express my my desire to get this resolved. What I dont have much patience for is getting no response from the vendor even after I sent him the 2nd set of pics so I dont know what is going on.

Regarding cutting the flange, I had thoughts of that as well and hope it doesnt come to that. I didnt want to touch them at this point. I already hacked up the Y pipe they sent since I am planning on duals so I know I wont get all my money back even if they give in to a refund. But I did tell them I liked the headers and just wanted another set if they could insure me of fitment.

HawkZ28

iTrader: (2)

Any new news?

Dueling73s

iTrader: (4)

Sorry for the delay, just getting back from a business trip. RPD negotiated with OBX for $100 refund for me to keep the headers and get them repaired or return them for full refund. Suprising OBX did not offer to send new headers and didnt give any info on what went wrong. I checked out with a couple of shops just over the phone without them seeing the headers what I thought could be done to fix them. They said probably would work but not sure until they could see them. The most expereinced place wanted $125 do do the work. I was traveling so didnt have a chance to get more assurance from the shops but decided to take a chance and went to RPD and said if they would give me $125 back I would keep them. OBX wouldnt give more than $100 but RPD chipped in the extra $25 so now I just have to stay home long enough to get the headers to the shop. RPD did right and worked for a resolution, dont have alot of confidence in OBX though that they have the issue resolved. Perhaps this is just a one of incident since I havent heard anyone else with the same problem.

HawkZ28

iTrader: (2)

So much for standing behind the product. Too bad RDP didn't offer to ship you a new set with return shipping for the old- at least they're trying to help.

Bittersweet news. I'm nervous about when I get mine now. Guess it's a crap shoot.

chas0218

I think tonight I will order a set and match them up to my stockers when they come in. If the problem is solved I will let you guys know otherwise I will send them back and spend the extra $150 on super comps.

EDIT: Hawk let us know what you find out. I hit the reply button shortly after you. haha

EDIT 2: I sent the e-bay store an e-mail asking if its a on going problem or if it has been fixed...no reponse yet.

ymenic

iTrader: (1)

I order mine on monday, just got them on wednesday. I took about 10 pics...upload them now. I'll post pics of ground clearance or any problems. These look bad ***....well worth the money.


Here a link to the pics...I can't get them to load.
http://img577.imageshack.us/g/dsc0419j.jpg/

HawkZ28

iTrader: (2)

Will do- my wife borrowed money from my tranny/header fund for my daughters bday party, so I should be ordering next week when she pays 'me' back.

I'll do the same- any clearancing and fitment issues will be posted.

chas0218

Do the bolt holes line up with the heads on the LT's?

ymenic

iTrader: (1)

The bolt holes didn't line up, I had to drill a little on the header to get to first and last bolt to fit. I just took the gasket and draw an outline for where I had to drill. I would say no more then 3/16 off. After I got the bolt holes lined up and fitting good, I now had to order a mini starter. I just order the mini start but the ground clearance on the headers are awesome. They stuck very nice, the header has to be no lower then my tranny pan. I'll post some more pics Tuesday when the starter gets here.

Dueling73s

iTrader: (4)

Well I am glad you got yours to fit. Did you double check to make sure that there is enough header to cover the port to seal it. Even if I would have tried to drill mine out one tube would have not sealed the exhaust port. What type of heads do you have?

ymenic

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, they primaries fit perfect. I lined it up with the gasket, it was just the bolt holes on 8th cylinder and the 4th cylinder. Yeah ur bolt hole is like 1/4 to 3/8 off. Mine was maybe 3/16 at the most.

HawkZ28

iTrader: (2)

Could you post a pic of your starter when you do the others- I want to see how mine compares for size so I can plan- I have a reman, but it's body is smaller than the one that was originally on my engine.

Looks like I may have to order one of these/'shamelessly promote' my local speedshop...

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Small-...440#tabcontent

ymenic

iTrader: (1)

Okay, I'll post some pic of the starter as well. I order this mini starter, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-B...Q5fAccessories.

chas0218

Looks like I will be ordering a set of these for my car even if the fiancee isn't happy about it.

ScottyRock

iTrader: (3)

Just ordered me a set

HawkZ28

iTrader: (2)

FYI- I contacted RDP via eBay in regards to the issue of bolt holes/primary alignment, and here's the response. Got the response on a Saturday, so I was impressed by that.

At the very least, we have a number to contact OBX. Between Dueling73s and ymenic we have an idea what to expect.

HawkZ28

iTrader: (2)

Spoke with someone at OBX today. Explained what was happening, and to compare the gaskets to the flanges on the headers. I was *told* they were going to pull a few sets, compare to the gaskets, and adjust the jig.

Honestly couldn't tell if he was genuine or if it was lip service. I directed them here. He did state that he did have a complaint from one vendor on that particular header- I'm not aware of anyone else selling them so we know that RPD is holding up their end.

ymenic

iTrader: (1)

I got my starter, there is two spots I had to clearance to get the starter to fit. I not feeling so good today, but I got to pull the header out and hit it with a hammer. I'll try and get some pics up today or 2morrow. My passenger side A-arm fit and slides in nice, but you'll have to take the motor mount bolt off on the driver side and lift the motor about 1-2 inches to get the header to slide down. I had to grind off about 1/8-1/4 off the bottom of the A-arm bracket to get the header to fit with no rubbing.

ymenic

iTrader: (1)

Here some pics.

Hiemarch

iTrader: (2)

ok.... that's seems to be a lot of clearancing for your starter, you might have killed a little bit of flow on that primary

ymenic

iTrader: (1)

Yeah probably but I started to get frustrated. The y-pipe that came with the headers won't fit with my 4 speed cross member.

JimmyDavidson

Thinking about getting a set of these. I'd be curious to see/hear how your headers fit near the spark plugs on the drivers side. Right now I have angled plug heads with hedman headers and number 3 spark plug is not in a good spot. Do you have angled plug heads? If so what's the clearance like?

ymenic

iTrader: (1)

I don't have angle plugs, but all my spark plug I can get with a socket but number 3 and and number 4, I have to use a 5/8 wrench. I would have no clue for angle plugs.

HawkZ28

iTrader: (2)

Ymenic- can't you clock/change the position of the starter to give you more clearance? What are those 3 holes for on the block mount?

Also, are you saying you can't even get the plug socket on them, or can't get use a ratchet on #'s 3 and 4 and have to resort to a wrench on the plug socket?

4 speed crossmember......Is your crossmember from a 700r4?

ymenic

iTrader: (1)

I clocked it all the way over. I had problems with the back of the starter. I can use a socket on all plugs but 3 and 6 I have to use a manual wrench. It has a 4 speed manual tranny crossmember, but I switched over to a th350. I used the came crossmember, I'll post some pics when I grind off a little on the crossmember or I may need to get a new one made.

supamaro383

I have been doing my research before I buy , I live in oakland where obx is located and RPD is located to find out I think they are the same company. they have the same address, I live 7 miles away so tomorrow I'm going to verify . something smells fishy but if I buy these headers I want them to fit. just be cautious 2 other people who might buy
these headers . FYI

ScottyRock

iTrader: (3)

Just got mine, did anyone notice this?

HawkZ28

iTrader: (2)

Trim it with a dremel and cutoff wheel?

Mortorq

Is that the inside of their Y pipe, looking "upstream"?

ScottyRock

iTrader: (3)

Yes it is, I am going to use my Flowmaster Y-pipe, it looks like it will perform better, IDK I could be wrong, but I am getting a Magna Flow muffler 3" inlet/outlet the round style not the oval.

ymenic

iTrader: (1)

Thats what mine looks like, I never thought anything of it until now. I think I'm going to take it to work and get it trimmed.

Mortorq

Ymenic & ScottyRock,

What manufacturer will you gentlemen be using for the over the axle pipe?.......

A Texas Speed and Performance "Rumbler" style 3" in dual 2.5" Y pipe at the rear of the axle , so you have l & r side tips?

ymenic

iTrader: (1)

I was just going to put a 3" flow master 40 series at the end of the y pipe for right now.

HawkZ28

iTrader: (2)

What is the distance between the pipes on the Y pipe? Hoping my X will bolt right up in place of the Y.

Anyone finished their install yet?

ScottyRock

iTrader: (3)

3" in/out round Magna Flow muffler, dual 2.5" Magna Flow cats, and a old Flowmaster 3" cat back pipe over the axle and a 3.5" turn down "no show" style, strait out

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (33)

just a FYI,

ALL these stainless setups on ebay are made in china. OBX/RPD/ SS AUTO CHROME / ETC are all sellers. they dont manufacture then. So them saying "they will adjust the jigs" is hogwash

http://www.alibaba.com/products/cama...100006372.html

years ago I bought one of each turbo setup that poped up on the market to check the quality/fit finish etc.

its "ok" quality. its not gas purged on the inside when tig welded. So will be prone to crack eventually. easy fix no big deal.

its NOT a good stainless. it will rust eventually because of its high iron content. (take a magnet to the bends) its not gona stick to the straight parts but I bet it will on the bends. (did on everyone of my test pieces I had here)

yes.Id prob. run a set on my supercharged 383 being they are long tubes. Id prob. sell my slp headers & y pipe on my car.

Worth the price of a decet set of LTs and Y pipe. YES

just figured id toss my .02 in.

Mortorq

Anyone have any under-chassis pics looking back, showing the headers and the Y pipe placement alongside the driveshaft tunnel yet?

ymenic

iTrader: (1)

My y pipe didn't fit close at all with my cross-member. I'll be buying some pipes and making my own y pipe but I'll post some pics of that.

ymenic

iTrader: (1)

I just had to the trim the Crossmember a little to beable to get the y-pipes to fit. I'm going to take the car and have them put a flowmaster y-pipe and a 3" pipe all the way out the back.

ymenic

iTrader: (1)

Another Pic. I can also tell a big different in power switching from a hedman 1 5/8 to 1 7/8 and also 2" y pipe to a 2.5 y pipe flows alot better...just need some back pressure for some low end torque.

N.J.-SLICK-1

From what I've been reading, is it my understanding that these headers, can't be used on an older style large starter that came on my 400 smallblock with the 168 tooth externally balanced flex plate, So a mini starter must be used? And what exactly is the reason for this, a tube hit the starter or what?

(very mild 400 SBC, turbo 400 trans, spohn crossmember-torque arm-driveshaft loop combo, factory rear w/3.73 gears)

ymenic

iTrader: (1)

Yep, your right. You won't be able to use an older style starter with this header. I had to use a ministarter and still had to ding in a little on the header.

N.J.-SLICK-1

I think I may have found the solution within the pages of this Site, apparently the 1999 and up V8 trucks and 1996 4.3 V6 blazer/GMC use a smaller starter with the staggered bolt pattern so there is no need to drill the third starter hole, and no need for the Huge old school starter. see pic ~~~>

1bdbrd

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone installed these with a t56 yet? I am picture proof away from pulling my Dougs 2210 copies and buying these to use with my flowmaster merge..