I'm running some SLP 1 3/4" headers right now into a custom y I made. With minor grinding they cover the d-port AFR flange without creating a wall anywhere around the port.

I'll probably put a gauge in the collector at one point and see what the backpressure is like under boost.

-- Joe

 

headers arrived today. look good so far.

 

Would you be willing to take inside diameter and outside diameter measurements for the primaries? It doesn't make sense that they used to offer these with 1.75" primaries before and have now switched to 1.5". Unless they got caught with false advertising.

 

If you look at the picture closely those ports dont look very small especially when you look at them in relation to the bolt holes. They also look to be sqaure port. I have 1 3/4 hookers but thats only top to bottom, side to side is less than 1 1/2 and they wont cover my 195's.

 

I'm confused. The exhaust ports on the 195s are 1.5x1.5 (felpro 1404).

My afr 210s are 1.63 (felpro 1406).

I emailed Jerami for the exhaust side technical drawings (I only have the intake side) but he's out of the office this week. I'm curious about the exact port location in relation to the bolt holes.

-- Joe

 

I took my calipers to the ports yesterday and got 1.5 top-bottom and 1.57 side-side on the heads. The 2210s were somewhere in the 1.4 range, there's not enough meat to take out either.

 

Hrmm.. As far as I know, the 2210s and stainless works are identical in size and shape.

You really can't weld a little bit to the side of the ports and grind the inside?

These ebay headers are probably 1.5". I don't understand why the guy who bought them can't just measure them for us. These things appear to be like unicorns. Everyone talks about them but I've yet to meet someone that has a set in their hands.

-- Joe

 

I'm not sure, i'll take some pics when I get home.

 

The outside of the wholes are 1.75 by 1.75, but you can tell that it has been grinded to make it that way. There no welds on the sides so I might have mine welded some to give some more meat to the side. The measurement on the inside of the tubing is just under that, about 1 11/16

 

How large are the primary tubes? Not the opening but the tubes themselves., own from the flange?

 

Is it just me or does that header look like it has about .025" sealing surface on the sides!?

-- Joe

 

Yes, especially next to the bolt hole. A little tig welding will fix that. Makes me think the primaries are a lot larger than 1.5, you would have broken through the wall with that (crappy) porting.

 

So I messaged one of the sellers of those headers on ebay and asked what size the ports were. What I got for a response was "1.5" O.D. and 1.25" I.D. approximately" Interesting.

 

Yeah, even the best quality header gaskets are going to have sealing issues there. I hope that's not the case for those who have bought them. I would add a little meat on them for peace of mind.

 

They probably bell the primary at the flange and weld it.

I'd love to see a set with a dial caliper...

-- Joe

 

Yeah so im pretty much out on these lol. I still need to get that pic of the 2210s.

 

so does anybody have an actual mesurement of the primaries of these new OBX headers? I really dont want to drop 1200$ on a set of stainless works plus shipping to Canada....... yeah I know they are awesome but I have a hard time explaining that price to myself.

 

Primaries are ~45mm -> 1 3/4 and y-pipe looks better from inside (post #83)

 

have you installed them yet to see the fit? and could you get a picture of the ypipe to see for ourselves?

 

Y-pipe



http://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/10...96561388552818

 

Guys, yay or nay. Looking to make the switch from shorties to LTs.

 

Well I just bought a set.

I will measure the actual interior dimensions like everyone is asking.

I don't doubt I will need to "adjust" these headers a little but even then I have a good inexpensive template to work with.

$425 shipped to my door including SS y pipe....I'm not complaining....yet

 

Anyone have the EBAY listing for these headers and y-pipe and also pictures of them installed on the engine in the car?THANKS

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181110719531...84.m1423.l2649

 

How do you get the obx header to fit on the passenger side? I took off the starter and i removed an engine mount bolt. When i lifted the motor, the header gets stuck on the heater core box.

 

For future reference to those who install these, I was able to get the passenger side header in by slightly hammering in the outmost pipe about 1/8 of an inch in, then I greased up the a-arm mount the header kept on hitting. After that, the header slid right in with a few taps. If anyone would like a picture of the completed installation, reply to this thread.

 

Definitely want to see pics of these installed. Hopefully a ground clearance shot anywhere it's tight and if you could a drivers side collector shot to see if they clear a t56

 

Could anyone with these installed give a height reference to the oil pan? How far past the bottom of the pan do they hang. Ground clearance is at a premium, and it'd be a help!

 

Typical internet pics...

 

Those are not the OBX headers... And the supplier is not of much help on this one.

 

What the HELL IS UP WITH THE COMPANIES THAT CARRY OBX HEADERS. Are these companies legitimate? I have email and Faxed OBX racing but get no response. All I want to know is if the headers are in stock so I can order them.

Ridiculous

 

Have a set I bought last year I will sell. Going turbo. They were never installed if your interested.

 

Ahh fella's any metal, regardless of coating will eventually corrode or rust eventually.

Cheaper materials in certain aspects of that nature is a given, I myself wouldn't ever spend 700+ for a set of headers or exhaust knowing it was just going to rust.

Some people do, I just couldn't see myself doing it though.

 

These look like they're 1 3/4 primary, to a 2.5 coll..
I'm going to reread this whole thread, but I plan to buy these for my
305 tpi t56. It is rebuilt with forged internals, ported and polished heads, bigger cam. I plan to upgrade to a 355 eventually. I want to run a true dual exhaust and dump at the rear end. Will this be overkill until i get to the 355? It will be aways down the road.
Thank you for any replies.

http://www.racingpartdepot.com/servl...maro-SB/Detail

edit: These are supposed to be here tomorrow! woooh. I'll check the flanges to see if they have the problems that a few other people's had!

 

well. I'll take some pictures tomorrow but i'm having a little problem of all the holes lining up. They're off probably less than 1/8. I'll try again tomorrow when I get some bolts that aren't 3-4" long.. Maybe try something with a smaller head too. Otherwise they look pretty good. I need to trim a little ear off the starter but other than that it doesn't touch anywhere!
I should be able to deal with the clearance issues with just a little persuasion and a drill press.

 

Long Tubes for LIFE.

 

When did you order these headers? Where they in stock?

I've been trying for 3 weeks to get in touch with Racing Parts Depot and OBX to check stock but no luck. They don't answer the phone, fax or emails.

 

Still am curious if these have more ground clearance than my hooker super comps, which i've now un-dented and welded skid plates on.

Considered switching to OBX to clear an afr195 exhaust port, and what appears to be more ground clearance, though I would scrap that 2.5" collector for 3" on hotter setups.

Never did get anyone to post a bottom/header to bottom/pan picture & measurement for reference. If your bored, just sayin...

 

I wont have the engine and trans in the car till saturday. But i could get a picture of the headers/oil pan differencw

 

ignore the massive dent in the oil pan

 

Yes I'm going to triple post. deal with it If anyone has any other questions that I can answer while everything is out of the car let me know.
Pictures 1-3 are of header flange problems/ installation
Pictures 4-5 are t56 clearance
Key:
Yellow circle = Header needs dented more to ease installation, or deal with bolt turning against header and smashing your fingers on said headers.
Red circle = ****'s not even close.
1.25" bolts are to long by approx 1/8 of an inch. So invest in either 1.125" bolts or 1" bolts. I'll be going to ACE, AGAIN to get the correct length.

 

Thanks for posting those pics. Looks like ground clearance is better than hooker 2210s, but those hole alignment problems are scary! Try anything with a smaller head for additional clearance? I've used allen heads, or arp header bolts with the small head.

That #2 primary not so promising. Maybe cut that pipe side flush to the flange / bring the pipe in and open the hole up / have it re-tigged from the inside?

 

The port and pipe are lined up perfectly. They just did a poor job when they drilled this hole. A drill press or even a dremel could take care of it.

 

Forget all this. I'm a idiot. Just remove the AC housing and it will slide right in when you pull the engine up a bit. Literally. They just fall in now.. Now to adjust that #2 primary..

 

I know lots of guys may disagree but I always hack off the flanges on my headers. It helps when aligning the bolt holes since the tubes are free to move as I need them to and it looks cleaner when installed. I've installed four sets like this over the years with no issues. I read about it one time in Car Craft magazine.

 

Shitty ground clearance picture. Light outside threw it off, it's about lined up with the torque boxes. The pieces that come off the headers are garbage though and custom exhaust could be routed better.

 

What Do you guys think of that clearance from the Slave on t-56, is it enough???

The Slave is plastic no? Maybe a Heat shield or header wrap?

 

I just got my set of these and they look fn sweet!!! I will be matching up the flange holes on motor that is not in a car to test fit. Also what flowmaster Y are you guys using? How does it match up? Took some measurements and added pics for those wondering.

Primary


Collector


Y pipe outlet

 

Headers look good, do you have any ground clearence pictures with the car on the floor?

 

Bump...

So I read through the whole thread trying to figure out weather or not this is a good deal to buy.
also read through that some minor fabin (sorta) will be needed. And do they work with a t-5? I see people with t-56s so it should work or are the slave cyclinders different enough that it matters? What are some opinions!!!!!