Mine arrived yesterday. At a glance, they look pretty nice. Decent welds and the collector and y-pipe merges look better than some of the previous pics I've seen of these. I do wish the y-pipe merge was a little more gradual but doesn't look too bad. Looking forward to installing soon. Just moved but the nice 3-car garage is still filled with "stuff"! Hoping to have most of it out this weekend so I can park my car inside.

 

I got mine yesterday also. They look like a nice header. They had to have lost money at $88. Especially with free shipping.

 

My second set showed up today in a "dna motorsports" box (previous set was OBX).

Good stuff, especially when you consider people spend more than $500 for home made headers on the forum that are not even stainless.

-- Joe

 

They're back up to $248 now... 😖😖

 

bahh! I missed it!

 

It really seems odd that the same seller I bought them from still has them listed @ $248. Id bet that he made a mistake. I mean, why else would it have been $88? It doesnt make sense unless they changed models.

FWIW,

Mine came in a DNA box as well, and the Y is quite clean. Not like the earlier pic .

All in all. I am happy.

 

Mine came in a DNA box also.

 

Same here.

I am running dual 2.5 in pipe with dynomax bullets off of my Hedman Lt's. I would like to quiet it down a bit but not kill power. Any ideas on a semi-quiet cat back. I am currently dumping before the rear. I am wanting to make the car more streetable.

 

I have mine into a flowmaster merge (ditched the y-pipe that came with it), and a hooker aerochamber catback. 600+ hp and it's not toooo loud.

-- Joe

 

I do like the sound of the areochamber. I thought about a Magnaflow also. I just was never into the flowmaster.

The 4th gen catbacks do fit our cars?

 

No idea, never tried.

-- Joe

 

It was a mistake. Same seller had an auction listed starting at $88. Probably accidentally put the starting bid in the buy it now field and didn't notice until a pile of orders had already been placed.

4th gen mufflers and tail pipes fit. Most of the stock style intermediate pipes fit, except 4th gens use the slip-fit joint behind the cat like 1992 dual cat cars. Biggest difference is some of the hangers are slightly different.

 

I was contemplating bullets into dumps when I install these LT's. Running Flowmaster system now and not a fan.

Had the Aerochamber system on my old Iron with SLP headers, loved how it sounded.

well, I'm glad a bunch of us were able to benefit from it!

 

I received mine in a DNA box also. The welding looks good, I also would rather have a better collector and Y-pipe merge. I keep a spare set of felpro 1405 header gaskets laying around and the Header's cylinder head flange lined up to the gasket just fine. Immediately after the cylinder head flange the primary tubes are necked down more than the Hooker long tubes but it's smooth and if most of the exhaust flow really is in the middle it shouldn't matter for our moderate horsepower levels.

 

Got these in about a week ago and finally got around to working with them. Got drivers side on with little problem, but passenger side is giving me hell, anyone else have any success? I read the forum, and I'd rather not notch out the control arm mount to fit them.

 

Where do they hit? Mine fell in.

Maybe motor mounts?

-- Joe

 

Do you have the front end jacked up high enough that you can put these 90* from straight up so they move up and turn forward into place? Have you tried it with the starter out?

 

DON'T CUT THE A-ARM MOUNT! YOU WILL REGRET IT!

(<---after a "hit n run" involving a fire hydrant)

 

Loosen up that sides engine mount bolt and Jack the engine up a little bit by the pan. Put a block of wood in the jack area so you don't damage it and then they should slide in I'm assuming. I'll buy one these off from you guys! Haha $100 anyone?? 😂😂

 

I put a catback SLP loudmouth in from my friend's 4th gen. Had an exhaust shop do it since he had it welded in and needed it cut out.

for some reason the quotes didnt go in, but its in reference to the question above about the 4th gen catbacks

 

I'm thinking about picking up a set of these, did you guys need to get a mini starter for them? or will it work with the stock large starter?

 

Stock starter fits just fine. In fact a mini starter with a billet mounting block may need grinding.

 

168 tooth mini starter



The billet block style ones might hit.

-- Joe

 

I am running a c4 vette LT1 Denso starter. I hope it fits with these also.
It is close to my LT Hedman. I actually had to dimple the hedman set.

 

yes, LT1 starter fits just fine

 

im hitting against the tranny and control arm mount.

 

i believe it is jacked up enough for that just won't fit. did take the starter off already.

 

i need to get me some headers for my camaro just dont know what to go with!!! 86 irock z with a 383

 

Good deal! Thanks.

 

I had to cut a bit off the trans.. that tab down by the converter shield had to go. I installed these on a couple cars. On one I had to tweak the header to clear the subframe lca mount

 

I'm curious if this new batch of OBX Racer headers still have issues mounting to AFR heads? Anyone?

I have my engine in the garage and got the new headers in a DNA box as well for $88. Yay, lucky me. I grinded the hell out of my original $400 set. I'm not going to use those, even with copper gaskets...

I should have pics tomorrow of fitment to my AFR210's after 'splitting' the header flanges, as opposed to elongating the bolt/stud holes which I did the first time 'round. I know Joe had pointed out that this mismatch 'may' be an AFR issue. I aim to resolve this and indeed see if this is the case.

 

I have a set of the "OBX headers" ATM on my engine for break in and just quick driving around between outside and the shop. I bought mine off Speed Daddy.

I have a set of Assault Racing cylinder heads (AFR knock offs) with angle plugs in my Camaro ATM with no major issues. Mine is a V6 to V8 swap too but my passenger side slipt in fine with no issues. Had to jack the motor up on the backside and raise the car up to fit the driver side in.

Only issue is the driver side 2nd cyindler spark plug (cylinder #3) doesn't fit without unbolting the header and rotating it to get it to thread. Outside of that, plenty of clearance on my part. (Don't mind the exhaust having no gasket, only held in with two bolts right now until I clearance the brake lines and setup the fuel system.)





With 90 degree spark plug boots and heat insulators, they'll be fine. Only major issue is the brake lines which ether need bent back, or new brake lines and the one spark plug on the driver side (which just requires the headers be moved/rotated to thread into the hole). My engine is different being the accessories and stuff but the general fitment should be the same. Ground clearance is excellent with the engine tilted about where it should be (no transmission ATM). After I get my TH400 rebuilt and in, in the next two weeks I can give a better report. I'm running a 383 SBC with a mini starter and 168 tooth flywheel so you know.

 

very nice!

 

nice!

 

I can post pictures later but the headers bolted up without the obvious issues of misalignment that were brought up a few pages back. I have the pre-eliminator AFR 190 competition heads, UMI K member, no air conditioning and a T56 and the only two alterations I had to make were shaving a small amount off of the side of the T56's slave cylinder housing and to relocate the O2 sensor to the passenger side. Had I kept it on the driver's side I would have had to make some specialty wrench to be able to install and remove the sensor. I didn't have to modify the UMI K member. I would suggest that if you are having trouble installing the cylinder head flange bolts that you need to go ahead dimple the primary tubes at the header flange there. The hooker headers come dimpled and the bolts go in and out super easy. These bolts are a bit harder but do go in if you install all of them with the header loose. As was brought up, I'm not thrilled with the clearance of the spark plug boot to primary tube either. I had to header wrap my hooker long tubes to keep from burning boots and I fear I will have to buy the boot protectors for these. Another issue I found was that the pipes would not install on the drivers side because I have a crossmember mounted torque arm. The pipe wants to bend around right where the TA mount is. I have to remake the transmission crossmember as it is so I will change it. The tubing is 0.050" thick which for stainless comes out to 18 gauge. !8 gauge makes for very light tubing but I question it's ability to hold in heat, I wouldn't be surprised if my floor pan temps increase now.

All of the above being said I do believe that even at ~$300 (let alone $88!) these are still a good deal. New Hooker headers or Dyno Don headers are around $500 new. The name brand stainless header is a few hundred over the Hooker's. So you're saving at least $200 if you are willing to do or pay someone for the small amount of work that has been cataloged well in this thread. My original plan was to cut up this set to make a set of mid or shorty headers but these fit well enough that I think I will leave them. I may in the future buy a set to cut up as intended since even at sub $300 it's still cheaper than buying a stainless header flange and tubing!

 

Be sure to watch starter clearance. If you have one of the longer bodied ministarters you will need to dimple the #4 primary and shave some off the front block of the starter.

Right now I'm using the supplied intermediate pipes and will be getting all of that fixed shortly.

Sent from my electronic leash.

 

I thought I had the starter bolted in and no issue, maybe not. Ill check tonight. I have a powermaster 9000 mini starter and I'd be surprised if it gave me any fitment issues.

 

i had a smaller (possibly re badged power master) mini starter and it had no clearance issues then it went south. i realized too late on the current starter, it was against one of the primaries and cooked a bearing. it un seated the flange and caused a leak there. had it fixed and clearanced the primary.

hope yours clears, i REALLY hated to dimple the header like that.

as for the Kmem, i had to shave off some of the area behind the control arm on the pas and dr side. dr side goes in from under like a champ and the pass drops in from the top less starter.

 

My memory was wrong and the starter wasn't in yet. To get the starter in I had to totally unbolt the header (but leave it in place) and then install the starter. The body of the starter has no issues rather it's the mounting block. It just barely touches without a gasket and with a gasket there is the slightest gap. I'll still pull the starter and just power sand the corners a little bit. I'm surprised nobody else has the same stater issue with the mounting block. The block on mine isn't bigger than it needs to be, I don't have an extra bolt hole outside the mounting bolts.

 

is there an updated link to these headers? the original is dead

 

It's eBay so the link would die every week or two. Just do a search for stainless camaro headers 82-92.

 

I can't even get a spark plug boot on cylinder number 3 and if I did it would be squeezed between the header and plug. I have standard AC Delco plugs that AFR calls for. The heads are AFR pre eliminator competition series with angled plugs. I have 0.050 clearance between the plug and header.... Anybody have ideas for what to do? The number 3 primary goes under the other headers so I'm thinking the tube couldn't be heated and bent.

 

I have the Pre elimantor AFR190's also with the L98 angle plugs. I dont know it they are the same as yours. I have not had a chance to try them yet. I know the plug boot for #3 is close on my Hedman Lt's in the same spot.

 

It doesn't look like Tibo has the AFR's with the angled plugs. I believe Joe (anesthes) is running AFR210's (me too) and the spark plugs are angled. Also, the exhaust ports are raised about 1/4" I believe.

I'm getting back into my engine build real soon, then I can add more concrete information.

 

I said in my post that I have the angled plug heads. It is insulting to think I can't tell the difference between a straight and angled plug head.

 

Take it as an insult if you want, I was commenting based on YOUR pics compared to the other AFR knock off pics.. Yours don't look quite as angled...Jeezus, chill

 

These are copies of the stainless works headers. On that tube its close on mine but the tube is underneath the plug. With the boot on you have about .5 to .75 inch boot to header pipe

 

I've looked at it every which way and I have now discovered that the same problem exists on the passenger side with primary tubes #2 and #4. I made sure the spark plug was fully seated and the header was torqued down with a gasket. It just appears that the pre-eliminator AFR heads that I have must use a different angle on the spark plugs than the later eliminator style. I've looked at all the pictures listed in this thread of the headers and the primary tube placement hasn't changed, maybe they are just being bent at different angles though... At any rate these headers in their pure stock form will not work with my heads so my plan is to make the cut the primary tube for 1 and 3 and have them swap tubes. It's hard to explain, the tube for #1 goes inboard of the tube for #3 so if I cut the tubes where they are side by side and just swap their position it should afford me with at least 1/2" of clearance where I need it. I'm just nervous of TIG welding 18 gauge for fear of warping or blowing through.

Twin_Turbo (or anybody that's welded on these), I saw you had cut, moved and rewelded your tubes on the Camaro you did for a guy, any advice on welding these? Did you use a 1/16 tungsten and 0.045 filler rod?

 

Everyone who has those heads has the same problem with various headers. AFR re-designed them properly for the eliminator series.

Dent the tube I guess?

-- Joe

 

Just cut and tack weld it. Then bring it to a professional. If im unsure I just let someone who does it for a living give an honest opinion on the outcome.