I cut up the y-pipe thing. I'm using a flowmaster merge, and I had to change the angle of the pipes as one side was hitting my Th350 pan.

I cut them off right after the crossmember, and turned the angle for more ground clearance. Now I just need a few bends to finish it off.

-- Joe

 

The 400hp suggestion is for their 2.5" Cobra pack side pipe units. The sidepipe mufflers end up very close(about 18-24" I would guess on the Cobra) to the header collector. Physics would dictate that the closer the muffler is to the header, the hotter the exhaust gas will be passing through the muffler. Hotter gas means more volume. I would think that dual 2.5" chambered mufflers, in the stock location on a 3rd gen, would support upwards of 450hp before they become a restriction, because there is alot of pipe between the headers and the stock muffler location, the gases will have cooled and decreased in volume quite a bit. The issue would then be how the system is set up closer to the headers. Just my thoughts on the subject.

I like the 3" ID chambers myself. They would be the least restrictive, even if a bit loud.

 

Did another set of these, just took a high speed cutter to the bolt holes so they all lign up. Fits with no issues

 

Finished mine. I'm happy with the end result.

Hey, did you use the provided 02 bung location for the wideband or ?

I can't get my 02 sensor in that location as it touches the floor/kickpanel.

-- Joe

 

Setup looks great!! My innovate wideband fits fine on mine. Is your motor sitting higher solid mounts and maybe raised port heads?

 

Yeah, I have raised port AFR heads and poly mounts.

I just can't get the sensor straight enough to thread in. Plus the left side of the motor is the side that would lift on launch, so even if it threaded in it would probably hit the floor hard.

-- Joe

 

That sucks.. Guess you'll be welding a new bung somewhere else. If you saw that other thread about smashing the tubes maybe a nice hard launch would fix it lol..

 

Mine threads in, but just. There's not a whole lot of room. I would plug that hole and weld in a new bung in a more accessible location.

 

Which vendor did you guys use? So far the best price I can find is $425 shipped. A bit more expensive than the last time I looked (I think they were $299 several months ago).

Thanks,
Mike

 

I paid $319 plus $45 shipping. The same seller is getting $379 now plus $45 shipping. Not sure why the price increase, but it's still 1/3 of the S/w headers.

-- Joe

 

That's also the one I've found. But you're right, still a way better deal.

Is everyone doing a custom exhaust using these, or is there anything off the shelf that's close enough with some fab work? I may just fab something up anyways as I'm thinking about going larger than 3".

Thanks!
Mike

 

What do you mean ? TwinTurbo left a set as-is with the y-pipe supplied. I did my own y-merge. You can do 3" duals as well if you get the bends right, and do a upper panhard relocation bracket.

-- Joe

 

Sorry, I meant for an intermediary pipe and such.

Unfortunately I don't have anyone in the area that can do mandrel bends, so I'm stuck with either a prefabricated off the shelf kit or buying bends online and trying to make it work.

Just trying to weight my options and see what everyone else was doing behind the Y-pipe.

Thanks,
Mike

 

I just buy bends and cut 'em up and weld 'em together.

-- Joe

 

Can you weld? If you can weld and can figure out how to fit the pipes where you need them, you can build your own exhaust just the way you want it. You need a decent wire feed welder and a pipe saw. Summit Racing, for one, has good deals on mandrel bent pipe.

EDIT: While I like the look of those headers and may go with them in the future, I don't really care for the merge of their Y-pipe. I would hook those headers up with dual exhaust.

 

Have you modified collector?I testfitted mine ,and passenger side collector is very close to transmission(th700) oil pan,few millimeters gap.

 

Can you show us a few pictures?

-- Joe

 

Passenger side:

 

That's probably a hair closer than twin_turbo's, and about as close as mine.

If you are really concerned, do a pie cut on the collector extension and re-weld it to move the angle closer to the inside frame.

-- Joe

 

Stick a long pipe in it and bend outward. These are thin walled and can easily be massaged that way

 

Not worried about warping the flange to the head and causing a leak?

-- Joe

 

Bolt them down good first. Then carefully start pulling. It only needs a little. These things are flimsy when compared to a srt of sw or kooks. You will be amazed how easy it is to get them to give a little. It's not like you are bending inches.

 

Maybe have two bars, one between the primaries and the frame, and another inside. Makes sense.

-- Joe

 

It needs only go 2cm to frame side,and then collector is at middle.
Otherwise when we dropped engine to car last sunday with my friend,we were both surprised how easy they go to place from under side.

 

Just tested how middle pipes and y fit,they fit nice.Trans cross member needed minor grinding.I tried bend passenger side header with middle pipe,it won't bend.
Seems that when I fit middle pipe to collector,middle pipe goes so that it gives best ground clearance.
I'm not sure rest of exhaust,it will be 1x3.5" or 2x2.5".Duals sounds definately better.

 

What converter dust covers do you use (th700+168 tooth flexplate).I have plastic one which fits,but it is very close to primary pipe.

 

I have a metal one, and I also have a TH350.

An aluminum 700R4 cover (C4) would probably work well.

-- Joe

 

Fits just fine with some trimming

 

Is it plastic ,153 or 168 tooth flexplate?If plastic, doesn't it melt?

 

I was worried about my shifter cable sheeth melting since it's like 1" away from the tube also, but it doesn't get very hot back there. The primarys read about 500 degrees with the gun right at the head, but by the time you reach the collector it's like 200 degrees.

-- Joe

 

153 teeth and yes plastic.

No foesn't melt and being supercharged the headers get tremendously hot

 

I twisted shifter cable bracket down to get little more space to collector.I try how that plastic cover will survive.

Twin_turbo,is that 153 tooth flex plate cover same size as 168 tooth flex plate cover?

Edit:seems that plastic flex plate cover will survive even it is close to primary pipes.Modification made to headers are enlarging mounting holes(flange-head)welding little more metal to gasket sealing surface and trimming passenger side header collector angle and mid pipe angle+modifying trans cross member.
I think these are well worth of money.

 

Has anyone installed these eBay stainless headers with a T56 swap and the Hawks crossmember?

 

hmmm....i am really considering these. i have some hooker shorty headers which are somewhat rusted and not loud enough. I dont really want to get a mini starter or different starter though, just bought a brand new one. these are really nice though! almost just need someone to sell me on them........

 

Most people upgrade the headers + exhaust for more flow and power, to support a higher output engine, prevent exhaust valves/seats from overheating, etc.

Not sure that "loud enough" has ever been a factor for me. Heck, I'd like to make 600+ hp and be quiet.

-- Joe

 

I like more power. Which is why i upgraded the motor the best i could (in my sig). but also in my sig you'll see i have a SLP loudmouth kit. I have a borla muffler on there right now cuz thats how i bought it. I have the loudmouth muffler but heard its just obnoxiously loud so i want to do the longtubes before i put the loudmouth on.
I want more power, and i'm curious how much more i'd get vs my hooker shorty headers. I could feel a good pull with the shorties vs stock manifolds but i'm not sure how much more i'd get out of longtubes.
Longtubes werent going to be a plan until these shorties were totally shot, but i'm considering getting rid of the shorties just cuz of the manifold and collector to y-pipe leaks i'm always having.

 

Not much if anything. Might even go slower.

That's a small computer controlled cam.

I ran shorty headers for years making 550hp.

-- Joe

 

$293 shipped

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SS-LONG-TUBE...RV1mxk&vxp=mtr

 

Damn that's cheap.



-- Joe

 

how about smaller diameter tubed longtube headers?

 

Larger diameter shorter length would work better.

SLP 1 3/4, chinese 1 3/4, etc.

Just don't overpay for some home made mild steel junk sold on the forum.

-- Joe

 

Lol DONt hold back

 

well guess you sold me on just sticking with my hooker shortys then lol.

 

Just found this thread. I've had these cheapo SS longtubes, purchased from Ebay, almost a year now. I paid the $400... Found them being talked about from another review thread here on the forum. Seemed a WAY better deal than $1400. But...

Now that my 383 engine build is almost complete (still on the engine stand), I went to fit these to my AFR210's a few months ago and to my great disappointment, the flange bolt holes did not line up either. I started grinding the flange holes wider and wider. I never even thought to cut the flange! This gives me new hope as I had stopped elongating the holes because it's extremely close to the exhaust port on a few cylinders. Maybe 1mm...

I am choosing copper exhaust gaskets to help seal.

This forum has always been a great help!

 

I have these too, only did a mockup but they fit my heads great. Looking the change to afr heads so something to keep in mind.

 

just got mine today, and i yanked set of our angle plug heads off the shelf to size things up and word must have gotten back to the mfgr about he tight bolt holes. everything lined up and i only have 1 plug that "might" "sorta" give me any hassle.

did a try test fit in the car tonight and the eng will have to be lifted. as for cost, $278 shipped.

 

Why would you have to lift the engine? Something unique about your combo?

I removed the starter to get the passenger side in. That's really it. They almost fell in place.

-- Joe

 

On the pas side the rearward control arm mount is stopping it on the bottom primary and the oil filter area on the block is stopping it on the dr side.

The starter is out. I'll mess with it further tonight, I was just tinkering last night.

Sent from my electronic leash.

 

Last weekend I worked on getting the headers in. The pas side wouldn't go in from the top or bottom but the dr side went in from the bottom effortlessly. Once in the pass side had no clearance issues.

As for the dr side it was a good thing it could be pulled so easily. I had to cut the rear A arm mount back and I'll get it re boxed back in so it will retain its integrity.

I also had to trim the bell housing where the fork is. Once I put the header gasket on there was a comfortable amount of distance. I did a dry fit of the Y pipes So I could cut the intermediate pipe. I used a pipe expander to open it to slip fit the Y, lemme tell ya, your a baaaaaaad man if you get this to work with a breaker bar. I used my impact and that barely worked.

With all the parts together everything lined up nicely and junctioned perfectly into the intermediate pipe. This was with a T-56, the ad said for automatics but being a 56 is narrower it worked nicely and tucked cleanly.

For the cost it cat be beat, esp since it saves me a trip to the exhaust shop.

Sent from my electronic leash.

 

This is encouraging-what crossmember are you running and any picks of the a-arm bracket you had to trim?