Not sure which route to go, The screw is stripped on the EGR piping side not sure if I should get a new one or just JB Weld it. Suggestions?

 

Is that a ground wire to a valve cover bolt?

 

1 of 5, Had an electrical gremlin and wasn't putting up with his ****

 

That is the AIR injection system, not EGR. JB weld may burn off from the heat of the manifold, if it is stripped you really should get a thread repair in the hole. You really just don't want a leak there or your O2 readings could be off. So the JB weld may hold you over for the time being

 

See that what I was thinking but the threads are fine on the manifold side so thread repair isn't necessary. I know it's the air injection I just get funny looks when I don't call it a EGR component LOL! And I don't want a leak that's why I am scratching my head on the High Temp JB Weld or just get a new part. Wouldn't JB weld be just a permanent fix as a new tube fitting?

 

Oh, if it is the tube nut, you're kind of hosed. You COULD replace it, and re-flare the tube once you put on another one, but it looks like the bend would prevent you from getting the tool on again to flare it. I think you'll need to look for another AIR injection setup for that side, and if you get a nice one, put anti-seize on the tube nut threads, and between the tube and the nut so the nut cannot seize on the tube.

You can try the JB weld and rig it, but it may not hold up long term. Getting another air injection setup shouldn't be too hard though

 

No it's not hard. I was just wondering if this is one of those rare unicorn habitats that I could get away with dealing with it the lazy way

 

JB has been used on parts far more critical than that.

I don't think you can HURT anything by trying JB.

That said, a tubing bender and flare tool are not that expensive, and not hard to use. Google "splicing brake lines." The lessons there will serve you well in working on the obsolete AIR system.

Has nobody suggested you "drop an LS in it" yet?

I take extreme measures on electrical gremlins too.

 

JB weld did not hold for me on the exhaust manifold when I broke off the nut as I was removing the air pipes. I ended up going to headers but manifolds are available. You will have direct hot exhaust coming out that hole so be careful what you do.

 

LS is in the works that's why I'm being lazy.

 

Pull the AIR manifold, plug with inverted flare plugs, call it good.

Alternately, cut off the tubes and weld em closed.

 

Put a plug in that one place, and crimp the tube so the exhaust does not leak from the other 3 tubes.

 

Zackly....

When I deleted that mess I just chased out the holes with a 1/4" NPT tap and put brass pipe plugs in them with Loctite 545 hydraulic/pneumatic sealant. That was about a year ago and now I'm in the middle of swapping on some Dyno Don headers so my old manifolds will be for sale. AIR system already deleted..... if you are interested

GD

 

I just put a new exhaust manifold in, Tryna invest as little in this engine as possible for the up coming LS swap. Though the rusted exhaust bolts where a real joy to get out. Though Plugging and crimping is an option because I do have plugs that came with the new manifold... So there's an idea. I am just tryna pass inspection without an exhaust leak!

 

Plugging and crimping would have been much easier. For that matter just delete the whole AIR system - swapping a manifold is WAY more work. And if, as you say, an LS is the future - why are you bothering to make the AIR system work? It will be deleted with the LS.

GD

 

Because apparently I can not pass the inspection without the Air injection system... That and there is currently an exhaust leak. No clue when the LS will be finished either why not abuse the hell outta it while I can. That and I need to rebuild the rear end to support the power I wanna make.... Slow slow progress but getting there

 

Another possibility for sealing is silver solder.

Silver solder melts at 1100 degrees.

You don't need a bond, as much as you need to FILL the gaps around the stripped threads, to plug the exhaust leak there.

If you can get a lot of silver-solder flux into the threads, you need at least a MAPP torch, preferably two MAPP torches to get the manifold hot enough to melt the silver solder. The solder will follow the flux. Needs to be CHERRY RED hot to melt the silver solder.

You will probably never get the surfaces clean enough for the silver solder to actually stick. So, you will be just filling gaps, and the whole mess will probably still unscrew when you are ready to disassemble - if unscrewing the AIR from the manifold is even anything you care about by the time you get around to taking it apart the next time.

 

If he were able to get it cherry red, then he could just unscrew the tube nut.
But as long as it is still attached to the manifold, which is attached to the head, with that large of a heat sink I find it very doubtful that even oxy-acetylene can get it hot enough.
But you never know until you try it.

 

Welp I figure it out, I used high temp thread locker and traced out the screw groves with a o ring pick then dremeled it down. Also made a makeshift tap n die thingy with the dremel from the plug that went with the new manifold... Then I noticed a small exhaust leak and went to tighten the flange from the Y pipe to the manifold and SNAP the manifold stud broke off.... This car man why??? Now I am at the cross road between split flange or welder and I think Imma go welder and just weld the y pipe to the manifold

 

Thread chaser. Good for you.


Just make a good tack weld. You are not holding up a bridge.