What does this bushing do and where does it go? Is it for drilling out the o2 sensor?

 

Maybe a spacer if eliminating ac bracket on driver side? If its threaded then probably o2 bung.

 

It's a spacer for reusing one of the factory studs that the various accessories bolt onto. Did you try looking in the instructions?

https://static.summitracing.com/glob...ok-2460hkr.pdf

Left side, step #4

 

thanks it didn’t say anything on the page that came with it sorry about that

 

Thank you 82Firebird5.0 for bringing up this spacer. My 2460-2HKR set came with no instructions and NO spacer. Lol so now my procrastination has paid off, I WILL have to make a spacer to fit during the install....... thanks again!

 

The spacer only spaces out the AC bracket that wraps around the manifold on the driver's side of the pre-88 cars. You just need to make it the height of the manifold flange - the header flange. Most people just cut that part of the bracket off.

 

Don't cut the bracket off if you are retaining the AC. (even if "most people" do)

Make a spacer out of galvanized steel pipe. Paint it black. Use the OE stud, or a longer bolt. (stainless) Works great.

 

Thanks sofakingdom. I have used many, many of your tips in my build.

 

 

are those stainless? Or how did you strip the Black paint off? I called a hooker representative and they said the paint is just for storage and will burn off so I want to repaint mine with vht extreme heat... I just don’t really want to spend hours sanding them...

 

Anyone have any pictures of their modified AC brackets and/or power steering bracket to fit 2460 headers? I'm debating whether or not to cut mine off or keep searching for a PS only bracket.

 

VHT high-heat "sounds like" it would be perfect for headers, but it's a complete waste of time.

Only thing that really works for more than a week or 2 is ceramic coating.

I don't know much about procrastination, myself. Although really, I generally putting off procrastinating until … later, hoping someday I'll get around to it, but I usually don't. I haven't got around to having enough experience at it to find out if it works. Maybe someday I'll dabble a bit.

 

Don't have the Hookers, but the same principle should apply to any headers. Here's what it looks like on Edelbrock TES.



It's not modified, because I put the AC back on; but I'm sure you can imagine what it would look like if you cut off the upper parts of the tall one and maybe rounded it over neatly so it looked like it was made that way.



You'd probably want to cut the part that sticks up, including the part that goes back behind the header tube to that other stud, and of course just use a regular header bolt back there. You need that front bolt & spacer regardless though for the PS. And put a short bolt through there where the compressor pivot bolt goes, just to hold those together.

 

Hi 82Firebird5.0 Yes the headers on the floor in the pic are stainless Hooker 2460-2HKR. They are 2 years old and still look great. But I haven't put them on yet. Should look good for years!

 

So something like this....blue line = cut; red "X" = remove?

 

No unfortunately they won't.

They'll turn to a bronze kind of color the first couple of times you run them. Over time they'll turn a rusty chocolate brown. But it won't be loose, flaky rust like normal steel; it'll just be a solid coating layer.

But they won't stay shiny and steel colored for more than a few minutes of running.

The "silver" ceramic coating on top of stainless however, DOES stay relatively untouched over time. Here's such a set in my truck, after 50k miles or so.

 

Yes, something along those lines. I think once you have the part and the wizz-wheel in your hand, it'll come naturally.

 

Speaking of header coating: the headers in those bracket pics are Edelbrock TES, mild steel; with Jet-Hot's super high-temp coating on them. They were several years old in the pics. It's gray, real sandy texture, not shiny or smooth in the least. They were promoting it for turbo parts at the time. But it lasted pretty well except for the bottom of the Y-pipe where water and road salt and whatnot splashed on them. And even there, it mostly held on, just a few patches of it came loose.

 

What about Zeus rodding the head bracket to the AC portion and cutting off the portion of the head bracket near the water pump?

 

so it just burns off right away? I should just accept that my headers will rust?

 

Absolutely. Matter of hours of operation. Not "years"; not "months"; not "days"; not "thousands of miles"; HOURS. And damn few of those. Worse yet, gasoline dissolves it. Not sure how I can isolate headers from that.

I recall one set of headers I had that I sprayed the VHT stuff on, and baked in the oven (had to throw the oven away, it couldn't be used for food anymore) and the paint burned off on acoupla the tubes before I ran all the way to the next e-way exit and back. That was my wake-up moment, that "temperature" ratings weren't the be-all end-all of this matter. Anymore than "max lift" is the be-all end-all of valve spring "ratings".

Not saying "it's bad", "they lie", or anything like that; only, there are SO MANY factors that enter into this, that the "ideal" situation they worship in the ad copy, doesn't apply to most real-life experiences.

Unless ceramic coated, yes. And maybe not even then. But it's the best chance you've got. Iron LOVES oxygen, and vice-versa. They're almost IMPOSSBILE to keep apart. In fact iron powder is EXPLOSIVE even at atmospheric concentrations of oxygen, they like each other so much.

But stainless, with ceramic coating, is pretty much stable. Even without coating it's not too bad, will last longer than most cars will survive their owners. But WITH the coating it's much more permanent.

 

tidan, that would probably work, if you bolted em up in place, tacked em together, pulled em off, and completed the operation.

 

this is a summer only car that will never see salt... I’ve heard accounts of people saying that their header paint has lasted years, they must be making this up? So basically there’s nothing I can do to stop the rust huh... fortunately I can buy 3 sets of the hookers for the price of 1 set of ceramic lol

 

They got this crazy thing that generally comes with the headers called an instruction sheet... It's the strangest thing, there's a picture of how to modify the A/C bracket right next to the part that explains what the spacer is for.

 

mine didn’t come with any pictures that’s why I asked

 

You can send your headers to Jet-Hot, or any of several similar companies, and have them coated. Pipes too. Or really, anything else you want... it's not cheap, but it's ALOT less than any twice or 3 times the cost of the headers; and it sure beats the crap out of having to buy a replacement set a few years down the road, or dealing with leaks and the rot and all that. They even offer different colors and finishes if you're into that sort of thing.

I've NEVER seen header paint last. Maybe it has something to do with the prep; I'm not equipped to do that sort of thing very well, and none of the people I've ever known were either. Maybe if you're a paint shop or something I don't know what, you could get it to last. But just because "you've heard" that SOMEONE out there has, doesn't automatically mean that it will work for you. And if you're like the typical hobbyist with the typical garage and whatnot, you're most likely going to get the same results from it as all the rest of us with similar typical setups; which is, disappointment.

 

ok you win lol I got a quote from jet hot I believe it was about $200. Out of my price range for now I’m going to do my best to try and paint them

 

Yup, sounds about right... I think the last set I had done was like $175 plus shipping, so yeah.

 

I linked the instruction sheet, it's the second reply to this thread. Click the link, scroll down till you see Figure A.

 

VHT FLAME PROOF series. It is branded as a silica/ceramic coating. I have had my manifolds and complete exhaust painted for over 6 months now and nothing has burned off. The prep is everything. Wipe with solvent, scuff with 220 grit sandpaper and bush wash with dish soap. One final alcohol wipe (hopefully you have some) and three coats of paint/coating. Follow the curing instructions on the can, The driving option of curing works best.