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What is the minimum clearance I should have between my exhaust and subframe connector on the passenger side? I'm using poly engine and trans mounts if that factors in.
And, how do these style couplers work(see photo below)? Do they simply join two pieces of pipe butt'd up together or do they require a flared/slip fit end?
Those clamps are used on slip joints, one pipe into another, and crushes them together. As far as clearances, it will always be tight, but there is usually some adjustability available when you install it. I should note that I typically weld my exhaust systems, but I have used those clamps on a few occasions with good results.
I would add, if you live in the Salt Belt, the half-moon-looking pieces that make up the clamps, are made out of THE CHEEEEEEEEEEEEEPEST CHINESIUM that exists. You can literally watch em dissolve in salt water before yer eyes, as if they were made out of sugar. I put em on my truck and they did not make it ONE MONTH of normal snowfall. Now if you live in Aridzona or Texass or Lost Wages, they might be just fine; but out here IRL, ... not so much.
Those clamps are used on slip joints, one pipe into another, and crushes them together. As far as clearances, it will always be tight, but there is usually some adjustability available when you install it. I should note that I typically weld my exhaust systems, but I have used those clamps on a few occasions with good results.
Thanks, I'm welding my exhaust but I need a junction after the y-pipe somewhere so I can get it out of the car when I'm working on stuff and a slip style joint is going to be a pain to work with. Edit: someone on another forum said that coupler is butt-style connector for joining two equal size pipes....now I'm confused?!?
Sofa: thats good to know. I'm out in rural/country area in commiefornia, two or three snowfalls a year and no salting. What do you think regarding the clearance between the SFC and exhaust?
The only reliable way to seal a butt-joint is welding or flange joints like ball/socket, bolt flange, flange clamps (v-band), etc. those clamps have no way of sealing or supporting a butt-joint and would certainly fail. All of the support for those clamps comes from the slip-joint.
Hey bud that is indeed a butt joint connector. The slip joint connectors are necked down slightly. I have one on mine for ease of disassembly. If both pipes are same size & round it will seal up great and are actually real strong connection. So use it and it will make future repairs way easier!
Hey bud that is indeed a butt joint connector. The slip joint connectors are necked down slightly. I have one on mine for ease of disassembly. If both pipes are same size & round it will seal up great and are actually real strong connection. So use it and it will make future repairs way easier!
Thank you 2knight! That's great news!
What do you think about the minimum clearance I should have between SFC and exhaust? I have new prothane poly motor/trans mounts so the engine shouldn't be moving around too much.
As long as it doesn't vibrate while driving around it doesn't matter how close to subframe connectors, now floorpans are a different story but you should be fine being you put on poly mounts so the motor won't move as much.
As long as it doesn't vibrate while driving around it doesn't matter how close to subframe connectors, now floorpans are a different story but you should be fine being you put on poly mounts so the motor won't move as much.
The pieces I have cut and tack welded currently sit about a 1/4" to 3/16" below the subframe connector. Would hate to get it all welded up and find out I have to cut it out and reroute it. ;-)
Thats the best way to learn by doing it twice lol. If you have to do it a third time you're a pro! Can you cut your elbow off the y-pipe & try to get it moved over a little. You would have to re-weld it but easier to do now.
Thats the best way to learn by doing it twice lol. If you have to do it a third time you're a pro! Can you cut your elbow off the y-pipe & try to get it moved over a little. You would have to re-weld it but easier to do now.
I could, but since its ovalized I'd have to ovalize the piece I weld to it(and that wasn't as easy as I thought). And if I run it any tighter it will hit the third piece of the subframe connector (which I still need to weld in).