Big Radiator Install
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,155
Likes: 2
From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
Big Radiator Install
i have a large radiator that needs to go in my car...the main thing is it is too tall to fit between the stock location. what is the best way to get the thing to fit. i know i need to probably cut out the lower radiator tray but where do i go from there?
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 578
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From: Cincinnati
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: PT88 Turbo DART 406
Transmission: th400
Axle/Gears: 9" ford
How much too tall is it???
Reason I ask is...I used a C&R radiator thats HUGE...its tall/Thick... What I did was I removed all the rubber mounts on the bottom support>>>I took a sledge and anvin and FLATTENED all the humps in the thing so it was prefectly FlatThen I lined it with a thin synthetic rubber matl>>>Its designed not to hold water>>>Got i fro my work...It breathes and keeps stuff from rusting>>>>
ANYWAY then I had to take a holesaw and cut the top supprt area at the end where the fill plug was....Once I did that my radiator JUST barely FIT>>>OH BTW I had to remove the screw reatiners for the factory plactic shroud and all too for clearance...LITERALLY when done my radiator fits in there with less than 1/8" gap anywaher...Then I made metal mounts to hold it in against the synthetic matl.... Oce I got in in there and looking right I took where the holesaw cut was made through the multilayer metal and welded a seam...grond it smooth and painted everything...It looks like my car was designed for the radator..
Just remember the upper shroud had 2 pieces o metal>>>the op you see and the bottom of that which you dont>>>there is air between the two...you can easily dent in the underside for clearance...and never see it..
or you can angle it as ede said>>> or you can cut the lower and upper halves out and weld in chromoly tubing and tabs to that>>>which is hat many people do... I would have done it had I not wanted to retain a factory look..
Reason I ask is...I used a C&R radiator thats HUGE...its tall/Thick... What I did was I removed all the rubber mounts on the bottom support>>>I took a sledge and anvin and FLATTENED all the humps in the thing so it was prefectly FlatThen I lined it with a thin synthetic rubber matl>>>Its designed not to hold water>>>Got i fro my work...It breathes and keeps stuff from rusting>>>>
ANYWAY then I had to take a holesaw and cut the top supprt area at the end where the fill plug was....Once I did that my radiator JUST barely FIT>>>OH BTW I had to remove the screw reatiners for the factory plactic shroud and all too for clearance...LITERALLY when done my radiator fits in there with less than 1/8" gap anywaher...Then I made metal mounts to hold it in against the synthetic matl.... Oce I got in in there and looking right I took where the holesaw cut was made through the multilayer metal and welded a seam...grond it smooth and painted everything...It looks like my car was designed for the radator..
Just remember the upper shroud had 2 pieces o metal>>>the op you see and the bottom of that which you dont>>>there is air between the two...you can easily dent in the underside for clearance...and never see it..
or you can angle it as ede said>>> or you can cut the lower and upper halves out and weld in chromoly tubing and tabs to that>>>which is hat many people do... I would have done it had I not wanted to retain a factory look..
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 578
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: PT88 Turbo DART 406
Transmission: th400
Axle/Gears: 9" ford
How much too tall is it???
Reason I ask is...I used a C&R radiator thats HUGE...its tall/Thick... What I did was I removed all the rubber mounts on the bottom support>>>I took a sledge and anvin and FLATTENED all the humps in the thing so it was prefectly FlatThen I lined it with a thin synthetic rubber matl>>>Its designed not to hold water>>>Got i fro my work...It breathes and keeps stuff from rusting>>>>
ANYWAY then I had to take a holesaw and cut the top supprt area at the end where the fill plug was....Once I did that my radiator JUST barely FIT>>>OH BTW I had to remove the screw reatiners for the factory plactic shroud and all too for clearance...LITERALLY when done my radiator fits in there with less than 1/8" gap anywaher...Then I made metal mounts to hold it in against the synthetic matl.... Oce I got in in there and looking right I took where the holesaw cut was made through the multilayer metal and welded a seam...grond it smooth and painted everything...It looks like my car was designed for the radator..
Just remember the upper shroud had 2 pieces o metal>>>the op you see and the bottom of that which you dont>>>there is air between the two...you can easily dent in the underside for clearance...and never see it..
or you can angle it as ede said>>> or you can cut the lower and upper halves out and weld in chromoly tubing and tabs to that>>>which is hat many people do... I would have done it had I not wanted to retain a factory look..
Reason I ask is...I used a C&R radiator thats HUGE...its tall/Thick... What I did was I removed all the rubber mounts on the bottom support>>>I took a sledge and anvin and FLATTENED all the humps in the thing so it was prefectly FlatThen I lined it with a thin synthetic rubber matl>>>Its designed not to hold water>>>Got i fro my work...It breathes and keeps stuff from rusting>>>>
ANYWAY then I had to take a holesaw and cut the top supprt area at the end where the fill plug was....Once I did that my radiator JUST barely FIT>>>OH BTW I had to remove the screw reatiners for the factory plactic shroud and all too for clearance...LITERALLY when done my radiator fits in there with less than 1/8" gap anywaher...Then I made metal mounts to hold it in against the synthetic matl.... Oce I got in in there and looking right I took where the holesaw cut was made through the multilayer metal and welded a seam...grond it smooth and painted everything...It looks like my car was designed for the radator..
Just remember the upper shroud had 2 pieces o metal>>>the op you see and the bottom of that which you dont>>>there is air between the two...you can easily dent in the underside for clearance...and never see it..
or you can angle it as ede said>>> or you can cut the lower and upper halves out and weld in chromoly tubing and tabs to that>>>which is hat many people do... I would have done it had I not wanted to retain a factory look..
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,155
Likes: 2
From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
well i was going to try to get it in at an angle but it would be too close to the engine then. so i wanted to try to go a different route.
kenwood...thanks for the help, ill get the BFH and see what i can beat down this weekend. would you happen to have any pics of you install? id really like to see it!
kenwood...thanks for the help, ill get the BFH and see what i can beat down this weekend. would you happen to have any pics of you install? id really like to see it!
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 578
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From: Cincinnati
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: PT88 Turbo DART 406
Transmission: th400
Axle/Gears: 9" ford
Damn sorry for double post...LOL
I can try to snap a pic of it>>>My car was/is disassembled because I painted the engine compartment... but should be able to Lay the radiator in place and snap a pic>>>actually its probably easier to do that and take pics than take a pic with the motor/turbos in...Ill try and snap one saturday..
I can try to snap a pic of it>>>My car was/is disassembled because I painted the engine compartment... but should be able to Lay the radiator in place and snap a pic>>>actually its probably easier to do that and take pics than take a pic with the motor/turbos in...Ill try and snap one saturday..
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 578
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: PT88 Turbo DART 406
Transmission: th400
Axle/Gears: 9" ford
Besides your in Louisville ky>>>Im in cincinnati oh... LOL....probably easier for you to come and look at it in person...LOL
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Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,155
Likes: 2
From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
o yea lol, well, thunder over louisville is this weekend why dont you come down and watch the show. then you can give me a hand on getting my radiator in
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 539
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From: Newberry, Mi
Car: transam, el camino
Engine: 415
Transmission: T56
If you have to chop out the upper or lower radiator support, make sure to reinforce the frame rails- search and read the thread about "wonder bar" if you don't know what i'm talkin' about. You probably already know this, figured I'd throw it out there anywayz. You'll want something to tie those frame rails together if you cut the factory radiator supports there won't be much left to cut down on the flexing. If your new rad. mounts are stronger than stock, it shouldn't be a problem.
If you put the radiator at an angle it will be harder for the air to flow through there. The fins would be at an angle. This wouldn't be as much of a problem if you run an electric fan, again probably won't cause any problems, just something to think about..
I cut out the upper and lower radiator supports, there's probably an extra 4-6" of room for a taller radiator if you wanted to mount your radiator straight up and down like this-
If you put the radiator at an angle it will be harder for the air to flow through there. The fins would be at an angle. This wouldn't be as much of a problem if you run an electric fan, again probably won't cause any problems, just something to think about..
I cut out the upper and lower radiator supports, there's probably an extra 4-6" of room for a taller radiator if you wanted to mount your radiator straight up and down like this-
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,155
Likes: 2
From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
well i do have a wonderbar installed but i still have no clue how im going to go about installing it. i have to really get down and look at things but ill make sure to reinforce it if need be.
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 9,067
Likes: 1
From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
Send Stekman a PM.. he has a HUGE (something like 4" thick) NASCAR radiator in his Camaro.
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 578
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From: Cincinnati
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: PT88 Turbo DART 406
Transmission: th400
Axle/Gears: 9" ford
Thats what I have...Is a 4" thick C&R nascar radiator...lol..
fwiw I never CUT it apart I took a holesaw and just clearanced the top so I could get the cap off....>>>Hard to exp[lain without pics BUT the support is there... The sledge clearancing di not affect anything....I am 99% sure of that>>>Given that I have a front motorplate bolted between the frame rails>>>nothing moved..
fwiw I never CUT it apart I took a holesaw and just clearanced the top so I could get the cap off....>>>Hard to exp[lain without pics BUT the support is there... The sledge clearancing di not affect anything....I am 99% sure of that>>>Given that I have a front motorplate bolted between the frame rails>>>nothing moved..
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,155
Likes: 2
From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
yea me and stek talk quite frequently. as far as i know he got the lower tray cut out but didnt get the entire thing mounted. it fits now but it gets in the way of his steering linkage.
but those nascar c&r's are about the baddest freakin radiators ive ever seen!!!
but those nascar c&r's are about the baddest freakin radiators ive ever seen!!!
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 8,028
Likes: 93
From: DC Metro Area
Car: 87TA 87Form 71Mach1 93FleetWB 04Cum
If it’s a street car then don’t putz around with it and just cut out the lower core support and weld in something that makes everything fit… If it’s a “race car” then think twice about this since modifying the core support/cutting it automatically disqualifies you for certine classes or at least moves you up into a class with the real race cars.
TGO Supporter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 9,067
Likes: 1
From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
Originally posted by CamarosRUS
but those nascar c&r's are about the baddest freakin radiators ive ever seen!!!
but those nascar c&r's are about the baddest freakin radiators ive ever seen!!!
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