87 Iroc T-Top

Just curious if it is possible to install a 4-point cage with possibly
the main hoop crossover bar for harnesses without removing
all of the headliner and carpet.

Just removing the seats and possibly the center consol??
Car is T-Top which would help by taking them off for install.
Showcar, not drag car, although complete Spohn setup
including SFCs.

Has anyone done this or maybe figure out some sort of shielding
to weld them in. Car only has 38,000 on it and the interior is
immaculate and hate to rip it out to install cage
If can't- Plan B-PVC. JUST KIDDING!!!

Advice or recommendations appreciated.

Later
jaykar

 

4-point would be a roll bar normally. A cage is the halo that surrounds the driver. Which usually makes the car a 10-point or more depending on if they delete or add more bars. Most people mix the terms though.

I wouldn't risk installing it with carpet or headliner in place. When I had mine done I removed about 80% of the interior. I've heard of the headliners left in. The magazine I was reading had an article which they used a wet wash cloth (water) and a thin metal plate to divert the sparks. The cloth was wet so the water would evaporate as it got hot, so it wouldn't heat soak the headliner. I believe they used a TIG setup since they stated it would splatter less than a MIG.

As for the carpet I would just pull it out. You'll need to make some cuts in it anyways for the main hoop. Really it's a lot easier to take out than you would think, I've had my interior out of the car now at least 2 or 3 times.

You might be also interested in a bolt in style. I know it's not for a drag situtation, but even NHRA lets bolt-in roll bars if they use metal plates on each side (inside and outside the car). Along with the correct size bolts and hardware.

If it's a steel setup use a MIG or TIG. If you're doing a chromemoly type then a TIG would be recommended. Also be sure to order or make the tabs for the harnesses to go on. They are not included with the kits I know about. Don't forget you'll need more tabs and plates for the floorpan too. I used 3 tabs on each seat (2 on the crossmember bar in the main hoop and one on the outside floor pan. The inner belt was bolted off the regular seat belt hole in the trans tunnel.

Make sure you use all the proper angles and heights for the bars too. You don't want to mess up your crossmember bar by mounting it to low then having it compress your spine in an accident and seriously hurting yourself.

For all that information check out this post: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=270353

 

Hi,

Thanks for the info and the links for the cage.

I guess with the motor thats in there with NO2 still to come

I might as well do it rite the first time. Thinking about getting

some aluminum tubing and rent a bender to mock up the main

hoop as would like it to follow the inside contour as close as

possible. Most of the main hoops I've in these cars don't do

that. Want it also to look like it came that way, Not as an

after thought.

Thanks again
Later
jaykar

 

Stay away from aluminum for a cage!!!!!!

aluminum stress cracks soo easy and is not nearly heavy enough to support an impact. Chromoly is the way to go.

 

Yeah, Aluminum is for exhaust not for safety provisions like a roll bar or cage. Even the thickness on the Steel or Chromemoly is critical make sure the check everything is within specs before doing the installation. Especially if you plan on running the car on the strip. Would really suck to build a 4 point, get fast enough you need a 8 point roll bar and install the conversion just to find out you didn't have the right angle or material in the first place. Then have to strip it back down and start from scratch.

Chromemoly is definately nice, but the cost of it is a little more than mild steel and you'll need a TIG welder for it, which might not be to hard to find depending on the welding shops.

You can always reallocate the main hoop. I moved mine back onto the rear seat humps. So the main hoop is actually tucked behind the sail panels.

I had to hammer the sheet metal out a little bit, but it was well worth it. Being 6'5 I couldn't put the OEM seat all the way back with the main hoop installed on the floor where the directions said to put it. I also had to trim a some plastic interior pieces, but nothing to hard.

 

Heh??? Exhaust??? The only aluminum exhaust that I can think of are the aluminum headers/manifolds used on some 60’s factory light weigths, but they had an issue with melting and spraying aluminum all over the ground.

4 pt isn’t legal for anything , as far as the dragstrip is concerned it’s the same as having nothing.

Unless you’re running 7.49 or faster skip the chromolly, and you wouldn’t be asking this if you were…

 

Aluminum: I was talking about gaskets more than actual exhaust. Like the Dead Soft gaskets. I have seen some people use actual aluminum tubes to make exhaust around here... but that's another headache.

You'll probably agree as for the 4 point installation. It would cost far less in time and money to setup the 4 point up right from the start. That way if he ever did want to do a 8 point or cage it would be less bars to cut out and fabricate back in place to get them within spec.

 

Whoaaa,

When I was talking aluminum, I was talking about just getting

some small diameter tubing to use as a mockup for the main

hoop to get as closely contoured and up against the sides

and top as I could so it would not be as noticeble. Then would

use as templete for either mild steel or Moly.

Guess could just use plywood as templete also.
No PVC
No Aluminum
No Water pipe and couplers
How about Carbon Fiber

Later
jaykar