i know how to weld, but i learned on real expensive tig welders and such.

the point of this thread would be to ask what is a good all around welder to work on cars, looking to spend less than 400.

 

Hmm. Less than $400 is tricky.

I have this one: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Obviously it isn't under $400, but it is fairly inexpensive.

It'll do up to 1/4" which means it's hefty enough to do frames, but will also run .23-.25 wire which runs a nice bead on thin stuff like 18 gauge. (Yes, it will run an actual bead, not burn through, with .25 wire on the low setting. No stopping to tack every 5 inches)

Also, it runs on 110, so you can take it basically anywhere you want to lug it.

They make a smaller model that's just under $400 at Summit, but it only goes up to 88 amps.

Of course you could also try the Harborfreight models. They have a TIG for $200, but it's very VERY limited. Basically it's scratch start and you can use it on sheetmetal, steel and stainless only. That's about it.

I had a HF flux core unit once. Worked ok for what it was. I hate flux core, personally though.

Mathius

 

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes

thank you for the reply and informative post.

 

I'd say save your $ a little longer and get a GOOD welded the 1st time you buy one. This way you won't regreat it later.

I mean whats $150 more for a little better machine.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes

I used my buddies SP135 + on everything from sheetemtal to box tube and 1/4 thich plate. Seemed to work great.

I have a Millermetric 250 and its a BIG welded. sometimes i with I had a small box like a sp135.

 

Yea, but with a big 110V unit like that, he then has to rewire his garage for a bigger breaker in there, 30+ amps. Might as well rewire for a 220V outlet, but that's a pricier welder then anyway...

And really, what do you weld that's bigger than 1/4"? I'm really trying to think, and I can't think of anything. Race cage - nope. Turbo charger manifolds are thick, but you're welding to thinner tube, so nope. I can't think of anything really..?
On your car that is? And if you REALLY had to, it's MIG! You can do a wide weaving pattern, or a multi pass weld. Not like you have to worry about inclusions from flux core of stick welding (yea, it's a pain, I hate that).

At least, I'd be more inclined to get a big name brand, over a cheaper overseas harbor freight. You can get miller/lincoln spare parts anywhere in your city, the cheaper lesser known or fly by night type operations you'd have to mail order spare parts, if you can still get them

 

I didnt say he should get a Big machine like I have. If you notice I said a Lincolin SP135+ which is a NICE 110 machine.

Its not hard to run a dedicated plug for a welder.

 

For 90% of my welding I use a 110v flux core. I also have a lincoln MIG welder, and a few stick welders (a 110v, and a 220v).

For stupid think sheetmetal, the MIG is good. Though, I've found the fluxcore is almost better all around for everything. Notice I say 'almost'. On the thinest of metal, the flux core will blow through. But for most stuff it works.

Here is a good article to read:

http://www.millerwelds.com/education...article62.html

You can get a cheap flux core for around $200, and get a flux/mig for around $300. I think you'll find most of the time you end up using .030" flux wire for most of your automotive projects.

-- Joe

 

I totally disagree. Flux core wire goes bad very quickly and of course there's the slag to deal with.

If he ever tries to do anything like a frame or roll cage, he's going to need to know how to weld without leaving slag deposits.

You can get by with flux core, but a MIG would be way better.

Mathius

 

Well, I read the article that miller wrote and I very much agree. I think they're dead on.

-- Joe