Will it work? I have to run two fuel lines off of my mallory regulator on the intake and i want to use braided line but I don't want to mess with the fittings. Can I just double clamp them like rubber hose?

 

You could, but you're defeating the purpose of using braided hose. You might as well just use rubber hose.
This is for ~10psi or lower eh? For 60+psi I wouldn't use hose clamps at all.

 

I agree with this. Braided hose was originally created to prevent pressure buildup. The stainless braid is going to force fluids right to the weak point which is gonna be your hose clamps.

Get the ends or just run rubber hose.

Mathius

 

i also agree with both above posts.

and the proper fittings are not had to work with.

 

If you can use the proper fittings use them. There are some situations where you cant use them however, for example the power steering return line has no threaded fittings. For that I used these clamps, they at least cover up the crappy looking cut end of the hose http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

they have a special tool that saves your fingers when working with braided stainless line, there like 15 bucks or something, if you insist on using clamps i would say use the t-bolt style(the ones like what they use for turbo/superchargers intake plumbing)

 

what the heck does that mean?

To answer the question, yes you can do it, yes it works and it's even track legal. As far as the high pressure comments, there are fuel injection rated hose clamps specifically designed and rated for holding hoses at FI pressures, but really, if you used some really good hose barbs that are properly sized you could probably even get away without a clamp at all.

 

This is for a carburetor fuel pressure isn't that high, the reason I need it is for heat protection and to pass tech you can't have more than 12 inches of rubber fuel line. I was trying to this on the cheap and the fittings are like 5-13 dollars each.

I have a mallory regulator bolted on the intake and I wanted to run two fuel lines to the hard lines with braided instead of rubber, then I was going to put fake sleeves on the other ones. I was just wondering if clamps would have enough "crush" and if -6an is the same as 3/8

 

picture of intake
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...ocnewmotor.jpg

 

You've never heard braided stainless lines called "burst free"? The stainless braid keeps the internal rubber hose from bursting because it can't flex very much inside the webbing of the braid.

It forces the fluid back to the ends of the pipe.

Mathius

 

Braided lines are kind of expensive too. The clamps I listed above are designed for use with braided line and work just fine. If you can afford the proper ends do it right the first time. The clamps work just fine though, I've used em for braided fuel line ends in the past with the line over a hose barb since I couldn't find the proper fittings. I've been running it like that for years with the same regulator you have above with no problems. If I had it to do over I'd get the correct -an fittings though. -6an is the an equivilent of 3/8ths. Also if you are on a budget http://www.anplumbing.com/ has the cheapest prices around for the big name brands.

 

Use the proper fittings and flare the hardline. PS pumps operate at alot higher pressures than fuel systems

 

This is what im running

go to page 3 i posted all the info

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/memb...y-start-3.html

 

Not on the return side.. reread my post again. Now go look at your car, from the return line it will have a piece of rubber hose with a clamp at each end from the factory.

 

What does that have to do with pressure buildup? How does "It forces the fluid back to the ends of the pipe?"

I will repeat... yes it will work with clamps, and even at FI pressures.

And no, it doesn't defeat the purpose. His purpose is to have a setup that's legal to get through tech at the track, although this isn't the approach I would take, it will be legal at the track if you replace the rubber lines with braided.

If it was my car, I'd just make hard lines with only a short section of rubber or braided to allow some flex between the engine and body. Hard lines are much cheaper then braided, and also don't allow fuel smell to permeate them like braided will.

Finally, hydraulic systems like a powersteering system or brakes require specific braided lines, usually the Teflon lined ones like those used for N2O systems, to resist not only the pressure, but also temperature and oil.

 

I know you're not stupid, so quit acting like it. I also know you're a d*ck, because I've dealt with your crap in the past, but you can drop the bs. It doesn't help anyone.

You know what it has to do with pressure buildup. Lines don't just break, unless pressure builds up somewhere in the line for some reason. OR the line fails from dry-rot or being cut by something. Stainless braided is supposed to keep the line from bursting, so since the fluid buildup that WOULD cause a burst can't fill the line becuase of the braided sheathing, it has to go somewhere. That means the end of the braided line. How much pressure is a worm gear clamp going to hold?

It DOES defeat the purpose, because you're paying extra $$$ for stainless lines when you're not utilizing them the way they're intended.

Lots of things "WORK". But not using them the way they're intended and designed is never the optimal solution.

Mathius

 

But it all depends on what the intended purpose is.. you are correct in that they were designed to offer superior burst protection over rubber hose. The OP simply wants to use them to pass tech insp. at the track.. For that purpose alone worm-gear clamps would be just fine, he would be allowed to run. The clamps I suggested would accomplish the same thing as a standard worm-gear style clamp while dressing the ends up a bit to hide where the lines have been cut making it looks cleaner and moew presentable. Personally I'd just buy the proper an fittings, but I understand where he's coming from. For the correct fittings for just the 2 lines to the carb he'd be looking at about $40-50, where as it would only be a few bucks for standard clamps. His solution would work just fine and be perfectly safe for the 5-8 psi he's probably running from the regulator. Perhaps this is just a temporary solution to keep him track legal until he can afford the fittings, who knows. Another solution on the cheap side would be to extend the metal lines and run rubber hose to the carb to keep it under 12". Money is tight for me at the moment as well.

Not sure exactly how much they can hold, but I'd bet its way more than he has going to that carb. They work just fine for cooling systems and they're under more pressure than most carbs.. Not trying to join the pissing contest here, I'm just saying..

 

If you're wrong you're wrong, doesn't matter if you like it or not.

Pressure doesn't "build up" in a line unless it's restricted or blocked at the end. If the line is connected to the same place and the same size/restriction it does nothing to "prevent pressure build up."

The external braid on a braided line mostly serves as abrasion resistance. It has little do do with it's burst rating. Stock, "rubber" hydraulic hoses on the pressure side of the power steering setup have a higher burst strength than most braided lines.

Finally, like I've already said, his intended purpose is to pass tech. Braided lines with hose clamps will pass tech. Purpose served.

 

I think it would only cost me $40 for the braided line, I was thinking about using hard line but i'm not sure how well it would look the way I have it set up. heres a picture to see what I mean:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/at...ocnewmotor.jpg

 

Well, hardline from the regulator to the carb fuel rail is a no brainer.

Looks like the rest of the setup is from what was originally a TPI car... if they still exist, the obvious answer is to make hard lines that run to where the stock TPI connections are made on the front of the block, and then run the stock rubber lines from the rail to the hard lines since it is legal to run more than 12" of rubber line if it's the original fuel line.

My other obvious question is are you trying to meet the letter of the rule book, or are you trying to pass a specific tech inspection? I don't ever remember a tech inspector looking under my hood and checking anything besides if my battery was properly held down.

 

On my last 3rd gen I had the same regulator except I mounted it on the strut tower in the front. I bent 2 short hard lines flared em and used the proper fittings to connect the feed and return to the regulator. I had 1 braided -6an line running from the regulator to my fuel rail. I don't remember it costing that much to do tho it was probably 5 years ago now..

 

I was thinking if I got hard line then I would run it down the block behind the acc. drive and then right over the rail, and cut the flares off of everything and use 4 compression fittings.

I don't know if the tech would fail you for it or not, all I know is it's in the rule book. And I know he will fail you for not having 2 throttle springs.

 

All it takes is some kind of foreign particle (like rust) getting trapped in the wrong part of the line for a buildup. But pressure CAN'T build up, which is what I've been saying. Even if you have 100% blockage, the braided line is going to force the fluid back to the end of the hose.

This is so much more common in regular house plumbing but the concept is the same. Just because you want to ignore that it can happen doesn't make me wrong.

Using braided lines and hose clamps is a hack, plain and simple. I don't care if he's trying to pass tech. It's not the intended purpose.

Mathius

 

To pass tech, you can't have more than 12" of rubber hose. Steel braided hose is not considered because it has a protective braiding. Injection lines are allowed. The rule allows short sections of hose to join filters etc. It's very common for someone with a Chev engine, mechanical pump and Q-jet carb to simply run a rubber hose directly from the pump to the carb. This won't pass tech.

Since this is carburated, you're only looking at 7 PSI max. Although it looks ugly, a single hose clamp over steel braid is sufficient. It you don't want to use proper AN fittings, you can buy caps which go over the steel braid to make the ends look better and they have a hose clamp inside the cap to secure the hose.

You want something like these for low pressure hoses
http://www.jegs.com/p/Spectre/747206/10002/-1