ok so I just read on the other roll bar thread it doesn't strengthen up the frame of the car is this true cause I'm doing a 350 swap and hoping for about 500 HP out of it and my car was a v6 so I'm sure it is weak will putting a full cage in it help an what else can I do to strengthen it up

 

Your car isn't any weaker because it had a V6 in it. The body is the same. IMO put your money into your trans and rearend first. Those will break way before you do any damage to the body with the extra torque. Then go with sub-frame connectors. The only reason I'm working on the rollbar right now is because I need it to safely install the harness in my car. (I assume my thread is the one you speak of) Without the overhead protection of a bar the harness is a liability because it dosen't allow me to move left or right in the event of a rollover. So if the car crushes from above so do I. That's why I need the rollbar.

 

I ran my car with out subframe connectors and cage and it does twist alittle but it was ok. Then after the subframe connectors and cage, the car was extremely stiff. Changed my entire launch at the track. Completely different car afterwards. Felt more stable thats for sure.

Subframe connectors should be first. They do a better job at stiffening than roll bar or roll cage. The cage and stuff helps for sure! But not quite as much as the subframe connectors do.

Ofcourse 500hp is capable of pushing a thirdgen into the mid 11's. A roll bar is required at 11.49 ET's. So its not a bad investment to get a basic 6 or 8 point. full 10pt cage is abit overkill but you'd be good for future mods if you wanted to get below 10.00 ET's

 

ok thanks I am just Gonna put a good rear end and trans Behind the motor and eventually put sub frame connectors and 8 point cage don't wanna end up like my god father in his 4th gen camaro and get kicked out of Byron for not having a cage lol I'm Hoping to run around 12.00

 

I had SFC installed in my car within the first week I owned it. The first year I raced it, it ran a best of 14.0 the the old school 383 that came with the car. The second year after I did a bunch of changes, the first pass of the year got a 12.0 and a week later, I had a 6 point roll bar installed. At the time, a bar was required at 11.99. The full cage came when I started getting close to the 9 second range.

 

I had a second gen with a mild big block and added sfc and it helped alot. But i was still getting a crack in the body above the passenger door. I added a 6 point cage at the same time i painted the car and never had a crack again. The car also got way rigid. I loved it. Im kinda new to third gens but i bet its about the same i know its worse in t tops.

 

This months "carcraft" magazine has a great article on cages.

 

ya I couldn't use a t top car for drag I'd b afraid of how weak it would b and what on the From of this Months car craft

 

Mine is a T-top and I've never had an issue with them even when it was a 12 second car.

 

"Carcraft" January 2012 says "Swap meet scores", has blue 70s Chevelle on cover. Article is titled "How to buy a used race car". Gives basic specs and regulations, covers weld types and qualities. All with pictures, great read, good starter info.

 

sweet got that one I'm gonna read it now lol

 

Orr-I back haft a car with 2 x 4's and you could hit those with a hammer and they would ring like a bell.Then in the course of putting in a 8 point with only haft of it in,you would hit the 2 x 4's and the only thing you would hear is a thud.Tighten it right up.