I have my NOS center caps and NOS medallions but I just totally ruined 1 of each when trying to use super glue to adhere them to each other. I'm totally more than bummed and pissed

The medallions have a little tab that corresponds to a notch in the center cap and there is a raised circle on the center portion of the center cap that would be the best contact point for the medallion. I can't use adhesive tape or anything because as it is, when I put the medallion down into the cap with just a thin layer of super glue on this inside ridge, it still broke the tab off the medallion! ARGH. I was able to test fit it without the tab breaking but I guess when I pressed it down harder to the glue would make good contact, it was too much and the tab broke taking some of the backing to now there is a clear spot where the black background is missing by where the tab was

Also since the super glue was so thin and fluid, it came up between the medallion and the inside edge of the center cap just enough to ruin the visible edges of both. The center cap will be not very noticeable but the medallion is gone It just looks too bad to use now. The super glue also simply removed the silver coating from the back of the medallion and took off black from the center cap and didn't even adhere or dry! Just cost me $37.06 for another NOS black/gold WS6 medallion, grrrr I'm stupid.

How would you guys do this?!

Thanks!

Alex

 

I would use something stronger, more elastic, and thicker, like epoxy, or weatherstrip adhesive

http://www.tcpglobal.com/3m/ItemDeta...temNo=MMM 8008

 

3m makes a emblem adhesive. comes in a tube mine is red and white, Works for almost anything and is pretty darn strong.

 

Hmmm, that might work if I use it in the lower recessed portion of the cap instead of that raised portion. I'd just have to sure to use enough to make contact and not too much that it raises it.

 

i used 3m super gasket weatherstripping adhesive for a similar situation with a different car. It worked great and its lasted for 6 months and shows no signs of weakness.

 

Like this stuff?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRM-8061

 

If you use that 3M ****, you might as well throw another set of emblems away because the acetone in the adhesive is going to eat the **** out of the paint. Ask me how I know.

I think what I finally settled with was an Epoxy. I don't really like how epoxy reacts in heat/cold extremes, it can let go after a few cycles if there's no tooth. I'd probably try a clear silicone caulk type adhesive. It's sticky as hell, virtually chemically inert, and stays flexible so it shouldn't damage the paint or break free from shock.

 

Here's what the 3M Emblem Adhesive did to a set of NOS emblems.

 

try locktite 404 , works great

 

I used "Automative GOOP"....Link:
http://www.biosafe-inc.com/Automotive.htm

8 yrs+ no problems....

 

Loctite 404 is a cyanoacrylate, ie super glue. Goop contains Toluene and petrolium distillates, and eats styrofoam, polystyrene, etc... In other words, it'll probably attack the plastic and the paint on the back of the emblems. If you try either of these test it on an old emblem to see how it's going to react.

 

Well, I really don't know what to say to that info by Drew....like I said, I used it 8+ yrs ago with no problems then and none since. GOOP did NOT eat the paint or plastic.

Now, thats not to say that the maker of GOOP has changed the chemical content of there product since. I don't know for sure, I'm just putting it out there!

 

It might work, I'm not saying it won't. I'm just saying be careful. At $13 a piece (1999 prices) it's an expensive mistake if the choice of adhesive destroys the part. The trick is finding an adhesive that doesn't use solvents that attack plastic or paint.

 

Hello 92GTA!!

First, clean the two parts with alcohol to remove any oils from the plastic, and the oils from your fingers, since you've been handling them, let air dry!!

Second, apply a thin film of automotive silicon adhesive on the contact areas, do not put the oils from your fingers on the contact areas, or you'll be chasing your medalions down the highway within months!!

I have done the above to mine in 1988, they are still all there!!



Hint: You need to use something that will remain flexible in all temps, and not something that will dry out, and rot!!

 

Tell me about it!!! When I bought the set of 4 emblems at the dealer, the parts guy told me that the techs use Weatherstripping adhesive to glue on the plastic emblems.....So I used it, the [expletive removed] adhesive ate one of my brand new emblems. After talking to the parts guy very Loadly they replaced the one for free! Thats when I tried GOOP on all 4 emblems.

 

Hello y84pauloflondon!!

It's funny that they would tell you to use some Weatherstripping adhesive on the emblems!! Back in 1988, I bought a new "Tuned Port Injection" emblem, and it came pre-glued with a peel off backing!! I first cleaned the area with alcohol, and then peeled off the backing, and stuck it to my painted urethane rear bumper cover, 21 years later, it's still there, stuck like it came from the factory!!!



I guess your emblems don't come with a peel off backing???

 

So how about this stuff in clear?!

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-s...s-p-13609.aspx

Seems to be what Drew and Dan61 are saying would work best....

I can order a tube today and post my results if this is the right stuff to try.

 

I'd use a dab of clear silicone if it were mine. I too have had emblems destroyed like Drew showed above.... that gets expensive after a while.

 

It should be ok, but read the MSDS sheet and see what solvents it uses. You can also read about the intended uses. Some of the MSDS sheets will tell you that an adhesive doesn't work under extreme temps, or vibration, or that they melt plastic or eat paint.

 

With IROC center caps, I used rubber cement to good effect.

JamesC

 

By what everyone else is saying, I don't think they ever did, unless the org set from factory did! Any replacement center cap emblems bought from a GM dealer did not have any peel-off backing. Keep in mind that what you bought was a emblem to go on to the body of the car, and those type of emblems I have seem with the peel-off backing!

 

The Firebird caps a bit different then most of the others... Instead of being molded in color, the emblems are clear plastic. The lettering is engraved in the back side, then the engraving is painted followed by the background color painted on the back of the emblem. When viewed from the front, they look a mile deep with the lettering raised off the back. The problem is that any chemical that can eat the paint, or melt plastic, destroys the effect.

Acetone, toluene, etc are popular solvents in adhesives because they evaporate quickly. But they also work great as paint thinners and removers. Rubber Cement sometimes contain Naptha and Isopropanol, both have properties that might attack the backing. Again, checking the MSDS sheets and thinking about how those chemicals might react can help prevent frustration. In general, if it burns I wouldn't trust it to not soften the paint.

 

92GTA- Well it is silicone, but Drew did use something from 3M that caused damage to his emblems! Should be OK.

DREW- Do you remember what it was from 3M that you used? (type)

 

3M changed their packaging a few years back, and I'm pretty sure the tube I used is still in orbit. It was their Plastic trim and emblem adhesive, pretty sure its the same 08061 listed in post #6.

 

BTW the primary ingredient of the 08061 is MEK aka Methyl Ethyl Ketone.

 

WOW, great info! So to sum up, Locktite 404 is safe to use? -correct? And I got lucky that the GOOP stuff didn't damage my emblems, eh!

 

CA will usually fog clear plastic, so there's a chance it'd fog the top surface of the emblem. "Odorless" CA shouldn't fog as much, but it's still a bit risky. Also CA is brittle. I'd expect that any kind of CA would probably bond the parts together, but popping the cap off and on could break the emblem loose.

Another thing to keep in mind is that companies constantly change their products to meet OSHA or EPA standards, or just to make their product work better. The chemicals used 10 years ago might not be the chemicals they use now. Any of these products should have Material Safety & Data Sheets that disclose all the contents of the chemicals, the necessary precautions, how to clean up spills, etc. 3M's are easy to find, just look up the product on their website and there's a link to the PDF. Sometimes you just have to google the product and see if they have a MSDS posted.

 

The OEM center caps that I have have Silicone to adhere the emblem to the cap... I did not go thru all the thread, so excuse me if I have reiterated something.

IIRC I used Dow 732, Fishtank sealant would work too... Almost any silicone that is intended for bonding...

On my aftermarket wheels I used carpet tape, and stuck it to the center-cap. it worked like a charm, been on there since 2003....

 

Hello y84pauloflondon!!

I think I was getting off track with the peel off backing, I apologize for that!! That was for the body emblems!!! I guess I had two thoughts running at the same time, bad brain, bad!!!!

 

OUCH.. that sux to hear..
I allmost put gluing instructions in there when I shipped them..

Clear silicon works the best. lil dab will do ya says fred flinstone.

DO NOT use the stuff the dealer tells you to.
It will ruin the medalian, kinda like superglue does.(my bud found that out the hard way)
throw the super glue away and dont use it on anything automotive...
leave that stuff for bonding construction workers helmets to steel I beams and grandmas arts n crafts


Ill check my stuff n c if I have anymore.. no promises on that tho

 

Yeah I feel like a total noob dumbass lol. I totally should have known better.

I ordered another from NewGMparts.com that should be on it's way, and I ordered that 3M silicone I linked to that already shipped lol.