KMK454

My right rear end-link lost its bushings due to dry-rot and age. I discovered this when driving and the car sounded like it had some loose change in the suspension. Since I'll be replacing the end link/rubber, may as well do the bushings and all suspension rubber... and since I'll be doing the suspension, may as well take a look at those 20 year old original shocks/struts and springs... and this is where the problems start:

Maybe my googling isn't that good, but it seems difficult to find factory-style replacement suspension components. Almost everything is polyurethane or derlin, which isn't a huge issue as long as it looks/fits like stock, but a lot of the offerings are bright red. Shocks aren't as big of a deal, but the color of replacement shocks most likely won't match factory. Springs, not even sure where to begin. They all have some degree of drop.

So, where does everybody get their stock-ish replacement components?

Also, at what point is an original starting to cross into modified? If I replace all the bushings with black polyurethane high performance ones, put in 1LE end links from TDS, throw on some Bilsteins, and get Hotchkis springs (1" drop), am I over the line? Has sacrilege been committed? I've seen cars running Eibach Pro Kits or Hotchkis Springs and you would be hard pressed to tell the ride height wasn't stock.

The original plan when I bought the thing was to lower and get some 18" CCW Classics... I think I may be over that, but I know that would definitely cross over the "original" line.

Riding high and stock:

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

Much of our car's suspension is 82-92 replacement. Meaning you can't just go out and buy a shock that is meant for a WS6 GTA or an IROC or a Berlinetta. You simply buy a shock that is meant for a 3rd gen F-body. I like this as it makes buying replacements easier.

Bushings: The stiffness of a poly bushing probably won't be much different than a 20 year old, hard as a brick, rubber bushing. I suppose you could order stock style rubber bushings. But it depends on what area. No point in not going to poly on the sway bar bushings. They don't bind up. I have the Global West Del-Alum (Delrin) bushings for the A-arms. The original rubber ones that came out were pretty old looking.

Springs: All the cars with original springs have sagged in height by 1.0-1.5 inches in height. Most of the aftermarket "lowering" springs are lower by 1.0 -1.5 inches in height. So buying lowering springs to replace original springs results in the same height give or take.

I did Moog 5662/5665 (front/back) springs on my car. Raised the height back up by roughly .75 to 1.25 inches in each corner, depending on how much each corner had sagged over the years. I like it. Many people complain their cars sit too high with these. But that's because they're used to the saggy spring look that 25 year old springs have. Plus all new cars on the road have low ride heights in comparison to our cars.

I think red parts for suspension are overrated. I buy black.
a) You're never down there looking at a lower control arm or a subframe connector. Neither is anybody else. I don't have a mirror under my car at car shows.
b) Red parts won't look so good after you've been through the rain and dirt gets stuck to them.

The biggest improvement will come from new struts/shocks. And those will be invisible to the observer anyways. Spend the most of your money here. The rest of the suspension can be pieced together overtime depending on your desires. A casual cruiser? Racetrack star? Somewhere in between? Your choice.

KMK454

Thanks for the reply. My thing is I'd like to replace the worn components with ones that look factory original (or as near as possible) while performing better. This is why I think black poly bushings in the suspension and some replacement 1LE end links will fit the bill.

I was thinking of the following:
Front and rear End Links (Either Poly or TDS 1LE Nylon)
Poly front and rear sway bar bushings
Poly front and rear control arm bushings
Poly Panhard Bar bushings

Not sure if I should bother doing the tie rod boots or any mount bushings while I'm in there (trans).

As for shocks, I'm thinking Koni yellows or Bilstein HDs. Not really sure where to go here. And springs are interesting; I imagine Moogs will lift my car a fraction of an inch or so, while Eibach pro-kits will slightly drop it. I like the ride height I have now.

c10freak87

you have a very clean looking car i love it

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Don't bother with the "1LE" buzzword stuff.

Just get black poly end links as well.

Likewise, don't even bother attempting to change the Panhard bar & rear LCA bushings. The stamped sheet rubber parts they press into, usually don't survive the attempt intact. They're just altogether too weenie to withstand that much stress, especially considering that you (or at least, the 6'1" 145 lb gorilla that I am) can bend them with your hands.

If the car has so many miles on it that those parts are wore out, then it's not such a garage queen that "original" is ever going to make any difference. Certainly, not worth accepting inferior parts and suffering with impaired performance over.

KMK454

Yeah, well it has 20k miles and all the rubber bits are original, so some of the stuff on the underside is so dried out and brittle that it is deteriorating. For example, the rear end link bushing fell off while driving. I figure if I'm in there doing the end link, may as well hit everything at once.

Van Nuys born

The slippery slope ....... I'll probably be right behind you.

As for shocks, Bilsteins would be my choice.
I set up a 1980 911SC once and it turned out awsome..... I didn't go overboard...... just increased the rear torsion bars a tad and Bilsteins. It did get lowered quite a bit... and the wheels and tires went to the same size as on a factory Turbo.

1MeanZ

iTrader: (9)

Here is what I recommend you do:

-poly sway bar end links.
-Poly sway bar bushings
-Global West Del-a-lum front control arm bushings (don't bother with poly here)
-1LE or poly rear control arm bushings. Yes you can change them, I did mine years ago and it wasn't terrible. A shop press and a few pieces of scrap metal for support works wonders.
-poly panhard bushings
-unless you don't like the current stance of the car, leave the stock springs alone, they are fine. Springs can settle over time, but they don't get soft and lose their rate as many think. If you like the way the car sits/handles/rides leave them alone.
-poly torque arm mount. not a must but I really hate the stock ones.
-If you haven't torn the stock trans mount yet you're not trying hard enough, with stock rubbber engine mounts I'd run a stock replacement rubber trans mount. The new ones are stiffer and have a life time warranty.
-I'd go with Koni shocks and struts, if not them Bilstein HD. I wouldn't run anything else on these cars contrary to what others might tell you.
-The stock caster/camber plates in these cars are terrible. The rubber in them is too soft and doesn't allow the strut to do it's job effectively. There aren't any stock appearing camber plates on the market I know of, but Founders/Hotpart.com have the best ones IMO.
-Now might also be a good time to replace all the brake hoses too.

2007xl50

I get that you want to keep the car original and with only 20K on the clock I get it and it's a killer looking car, but at some point you have to install replacement parts. With that being said I don't see that installing better bushings, struts and shocks is going to be counted as madding really or hurt the value of the car.

KMK454

Anybody use AC Delco rubber bushings? I was messing around on their website looking for some truck parts when I checked for thirdgens and they have quite a selection of rubber suspension components.

actarnoff

iTrader: (1)

I replaced my entire car's suspension using Moog/Delco/Bilstein parts. In the end, it drives great.

Van Nuys born

Here's a picture that came with my 89 that the original owner included.

It was taken in July of 89...... I'm posting it so you can see the ride height. The other pics are current as of last Fall.

actarnoff

iTrader: (1)

I'm running Moog 5662 and CC635

KMK454

Just had the following installed:

Energy Suspension Polyurethane Bushings for:
36mm front sways
New front end links
23mm rear sways
New rear end links
Front LCAs
Rear LCAs
Panhard Bar

And then:
Bilstein HD Shocks and Struts
Four wheel alignment

The difference is remarkable. I think the two biggest fixes I have done to my car are the tires (year and a half ago) and the shocks/struts. The Bilsteins hold the car to the road very well and the rebound is very controlled. I love how it feels. It's firm and refined, but not in a teeth-rattling way.

The bushings tightened up the car in general. The car as a whole was tight to begin with, but the bushings definitely closed up any wiggles and gaps. So far, no squeaks from the poly, but we shall see as the mileage progresses. The car hugged the on-ramps and was a blast to drive.