Pretty affordable 1986 IROC
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z. Original owner
Engine: LB9. Dual Cats. Big Cam
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Pretty affordable 1986 IROC
Last edited by chazman; 10-24-2019 at 09:46 PM.
#2
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Re: Pretty affordable 1986 IROC
That's the roughest 43k mile thirdgen I've seen in awhile. I guess the price isn't bad, but it's a bad year, bad color combo, bad drivetrain, and it needs a good bit of light resto work. I'd want a thirdgen with more going for it, personally. To each his own.
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z. Original owner
Engine: LB9. Dual Cats. Big Cam
Transmission: World Class T-5
Axle/Gears: BW 3.45
Re: Pretty affordable 1986 IROC
I like some things about it. I like the color combo. I like the price. I'd like it A LOT more with a stick. I wouldn't mind the LG4 if it had a stick, especially since I've got 3 L69 air cleaners sitting a tub in my garage.
Needs a bit of love though. It's about in the same shape as my yellow '85 when I got it - ugly pinstripe and all. And those door molding aren't factory so I'd want to get rid of them. I'd worry about how they're attached though.
Needs a bit of love though. It's about in the same shape as my yellow '85 when I got it - ugly pinstripe and all. And those door molding aren't factory so I'd want to get rid of them. I'd worry about how they're attached though.
Last edited by chazman; 10-24-2019 at 09:48 PM.
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z. Original owner
Engine: LB9. Dual Cats. Big Cam
Transmission: World Class T-5
Axle/Gears: BW 3.45
Re: Pretty affordable 1986 IROC
Well, well, well.....carfax says 143,000 miles.
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Car: basic third gens
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Re: Pretty affordable 1986 IROC
I like the color combo. A bit rough, but it doesn't look like it's been butchered. The price seems ok-ish. I'd like to have one like that to leave alone and use as a 3-season driver.
#6
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Re: Pretty affordable 1986 IROC
I personally like the color combo. For that price, that is not in bad shape at all (as far as we can see through a computer screen). I bought my 86 for around that, in that kind of shape. It wasn't molested with every type of part store doo-dad, no cut harnesses, etc. I was happy with that because after pouring over every iroc I found, they had crager wheels, grant gt steering wheels, firebird seats, etc. My was bone stock accept for a few little things that were easy to replace with original parts. Yes, I have now swapped my TPI 305 out for a pretty decent 383 HSR, but to the regular Joe, they wouldn't know the car is anything other but stock. I have redone everything a little at a time, but even the (new or repo) stuff I have replaced is basically the same (repo seat covers, console, dash, carpet, etc). This would be a perfect candidate for that or as previously said just to keep as is and tool around. I would love to find a 1st gen in this "hard" condition at such an affordable price. One other thing, why does everyone say the 86 is "the worst" or bad choice when THEY have a car that has nothing left original to it but the body? So it had a peanut cam, or MAF. Big whoop. if your changing everything it doesn't matter one bit what year it is. If your not, still not a big deal, after 33 years on these cars with that kind of mileage, there isn't much difference anyway. I think that's a nice find, worth looking into to make sure there was no surprises, but looks decent. totally worth it if there isn't any hidden problems.
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Car: 89 Firebird
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Re: Pretty affordable 1986 IROC
I like this car and the LG4 would be an easy swap over to something along the lines of the old ZZ4 or whatever they called it crate engine. I would build one period correct like it and badge it as a 350 HO. A simple L31-R with a mild cam swap would be good in this car also. Looks like a good deal to me.
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#8
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Re: Pretty affordable 1986 IROC
I like this car and the LG4 would be an easy swap over to something along the lines of the old ZZ4 or whatever they called it crate engine. I would build one period correct like it and badge it as a 350 HO. A simple L31-R with a mild cam swap would be good in this car also. Looks like a good deal to me.
You guys are slipping. You've spent too much time looking at Barrett-******* prices, and you're starting to fall for marketing ****. It's not a bad deal if that's all someone can afford, but I'd imagine 9 out of 10 people are going to be disappointed in the lack of performance and ownership experience. The odds of buyers remorse in this case are better than average.
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Re: Pretty affordable 1986 IROC
You are right Drew it would cost a fortune to get it where I would want it.
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Car: 1988 IROC Z Convertible
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Re: Pretty affordable 1986 IROC
Yeah not much there... and even less with a tired 143k motor...
It would have been a decent deal at a 43k mile car... new stripe kit, some detail work, etc...
It’s just a tired beater... $2500 car...
It would have been a decent deal at a 43k mile car... new stripe kit, some detail work, etc...
It’s just a tired beater... $2500 car...
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Car: 89 Firebird
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Re: Pretty affordable 1986 IROC
Don't get me wrong it looks like a decent car and yeah I'd give $3500 or so and still be happy at that. I think it would go for 6 around here simply because of the door decals.
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#14
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Re: Pretty affordable 1986 IROC
But wait, if Carfax or whatever didn't disclose a odometer discrepancy, you guys would believe this car had 100k less miles judging from the condition? But it's worth half as much (in exactly the same condition) after you find out it has much higher mileage? LOL Mileage doesn't mean anything. Especially when we're talking about a car that if it had substantially less mileage, it'd mean the car had been used much harder in it's fewer miles. If anything the condition should be more impressive given the higher mileage, than the other way around. That it could fool you into believing the mileage is actual, should tell you it was kept better by it's owners.
I think it'd still bring the money the seller is asking, but the buyer wouldn't be getting a great deal. But that's just my take. The number on the dash wouldn't impact what I'd pay for the car in the slightest, the actual condition would.
I think it'd still bring the money the seller is asking, but the buyer wouldn't be getting a great deal. But that's just my take. The number on the dash wouldn't impact what I'd pay for the car in the slightest, the actual condition would.
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Re: Pretty affordable 1986 IROC
If anything the condition should be more impressive given the higher mileage, than the other way around. That it could fool you into believing the mileage is actual, should tell you it was kept better by it's owners.
The number on the dash wouldn't impact what I'd pay for the car in the slightest, the actual condition would.
The number on the dash wouldn't impact what I'd pay for the car in the slightest, the actual condition would.
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z. Original owner
Engine: LB9. Dual Cats. Big Cam
Transmission: World Class T-5
Axle/Gears: BW 3.45
Re: Pretty affordable 1986 IROC
But wait, if Carfax or whatever didn't disclose a odometer discrepancy, you guys would believe this car had 100k less miles judging from the condition? But it's worth half as much (in exactly the same condition) after you find out it has much higher mileage? LOL Mileage doesn't mean anything. Especially when we're talking about a car that if it had substantially less mileage, it'd mean the car had been used much harder in it's fewer miles. If anything the condition should be more impressive given the higher mileage, than the other way around. That it could fool you into believing the mileage is actual, should tell you it was kept better by it's owners.
I think it'd still bring the money the seller is asking, but the buyer wouldn't be getting a great deal. But that's just my take. The number on the dash wouldn't impact what I'd pay for the car in the slightest, the actual condition would.
I think it'd still bring the money the seller is asking, but the buyer wouldn't be getting a great deal. But that's just my take. The number on the dash wouldn't impact what I'd pay for the car in the slightest, the actual condition would.
But that extra 100K miles makes it worth less...to me, anyway.
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Re: Pretty affordable 1986 IROC
x2 condition is everything but that is a whole bunch of miles. Look past the shiny paint and see the car for what it really is then ask yourself if you really want it.
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Re: Pretty affordable 1986 IROC
Really though, what difference does mileage really make? Either way it's a 33-34 year old car. Regardless if it's been sitting in hermetically sealed storage or driven every nice day, you're still going to have the effects of age. Every piece of foam, rubber, plastic, while have oxidized, dried out, etc. As soon as you USE it, the bushings are going to give out, weatherstrips will start cracking, things will start rattling. Granted a car with more miles will likely have more wear on the engine, trans, rear, etc but then again, if a car is sitting idle, things gum up and dry out just the same. Moving parts seize up. Bare steel oxidizes. 60k miles or 160k miles, the valve seals are going to be shot, you'll have the same puff of smoke on a cold start.
Idk, I'm not seeing how the easily falsified, highly suspect numbers on an odometer should make or break a thirdgen at this point in time. If anything a higher mileage car is a car you can actually enjoy without worrying about hurting the investment value.
Idk, I'm not seeing how the easily falsified, highly suspect numbers on an odometer should make or break a thirdgen at this point in time. If anything a higher mileage car is a car you can actually enjoy without worrying about hurting the investment value.
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z. Original owner
Engine: LB9. Dual Cats. Big Cam
Transmission: World Class T-5
Axle/Gears: BW 3.45
Re: Pretty affordable 1986 IROC
Really though, what difference does mileage really make? Either way it's a 33-34 year old car. Regardless if it's been sitting in hermetically sealed storage or driven every nice day, you're still going to have the effects of age. Every piece of foam, rubber, plastic, while have oxidized, dried out, etc. As soon as you USE it, the bushings are going to give out, weatherstrips will start cracking, things will start rattling. Granted a car with more miles will likely have more wear on the engine, trans, rear, etc but then again, if a car is sitting idle, things gum up and dry out just the same. Moving parts seize up. Bare steel oxidizes. 60k miles or 160k miles, the valve seals are going to be shot, you'll have the same puff of smoke on a cold start.
Idk, I'm not seeing how the easily falsified, highly suspect numbers on an odometer should make or break a thirdgen at this point in time. If anything a higher mileage car is a car you can actually enjoy without worrying about hurting the investment value.
Idk, I'm not seeing how the easily falsified, highly suspect numbers on an odometer should make or break a thirdgen at this point in time. If anything a higher mileage car is a car you can actually enjoy without worrying about hurting the investment value.
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Re: Pretty affordable 1986 IROC
But nothing about the car itself has changed a bit. The attractive number on the dash was a placebo. That's all an odometer ever is. You're assuming value based on something that is easily faked, manipulated, and doesn't tell you much of the true story. Buying into an odometer is falling for a seller's fairy tale, instead of evaluating an item based on it's true merits.
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#24
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Re: Pretty affordable 1986 IROC
But nothing about the car itself has changed a bit. The attractive number on the dash was a placebo. That's all an odometer ever is. You're assuming value based on something that is easily faked, manipulated, and doesn't tell you much of the true story. Buying into an odometer is falling for a seller's fairy tale, instead of evaluating an item based on it's true merits.
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z. Original owner
Engine: LB9. Dual Cats. Big Cam
Transmission: World Class T-5
Axle/Gears: BW 3.45
Re: Pretty affordable 1986 IROC
But nothing about the car itself has changed a bit. The attractive number on the dash was a placebo. That's all an odometer ever is. You're assuming value based on something that is easily faked, manipulated, and doesn't tell you much of the true story. Buying into an odometer is falling for a seller's fairy tale, instead of evaluating an item based on it's true merits.
I think my problem is that I tend to WANT to believe what people tell me, even when it comes to selling a car. A more careful perusal of the pics show more wear that the advertised miles. In the flesh it would certainly be even more apparent. Thankfully, these cars are new enough where a history from someone like Carfax is available.
But nevertheless, a 100,000 mile difference on a car is a whole other kettle of fish.
Last edited by chazman; 10-26-2019 at 05:51 PM.
#26
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Car: basic third gens
Engine: that I like
Transmission: to restore
Axle/Gears: and enjoy
Re: Pretty affordable 1986 IROC
But nothing about the car itself has changed a bit. The attractive number on the dash was a placebo. That's all an odometer ever is. You're assuming value based on something that is easily faked, manipulated, and doesn't tell you much of the true story. Buying into an odometer is falling for a seller's fairy tale, instead of evaluating an item based on it's true merits.
Personally, I really don't care what the ODO says. All I ask is that the condition of the car is worthy of the asking price. But obviously, the condition naturally tends to be better with lower miles. As far as this car goes, I still think it's a decent car for a decent price.
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Car: 1988 IROC Z Convertible
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Re: Pretty affordable 1986 IROC
The way I see it... I had a thirdgen that I bought with 26k miles and owned it until it had over 100k miles. It had still looked the same inside and out with 100k extra miles on it... but so many more things were tired out by the car..
In photos it looked flawless.. No dents or dings, amazing paint, wheels were really nice except for those clearcoat marks, no burning oil on startup. The driver seat was mush from being well sat in, but visually the interior looked good. Headliner had started to go...The engine started feeling a little tired and had cooling issues, gas gauge stopped working, etc... It felt like hitting 100k was when all the gremlins came out at once.
My 30k mile Vert on the other hand feels like how I remember that car at 26k miles. The engine fires right up. Pulls strong and doesn’t leak at all. Transmission shifts nice, everything works. Took it to my Friend’s for a run through and said the alignment is a little off but that’s it. Needs absolutely nothing.
I think there might be low mile cars that will run strong and not have all the gremlins of a higher mile car but maybe were just stored outside and/or never cared for cosmetically. It’s worth taking a look at those and sprucing them up cosmetically.
I felt like putting miles on these cars really did affect them. My 2012 Tahoe even feels more tired at 165k now. I’ve babied that truck and anytime it needs something it’s been dealer serviced it’s whole life. They can’t even believe how many miles are on it when they see it. That truck looks in and out how it looked with 39k miles on it. It’s starting to feel tired though.. A lot of the cool features and power options are feeling tired and you wonder when things that aren’t worth fixing are going to start going.. No visible rust on the exterior, but the underside is looking tired and old.
I do think a 100k mile show car that has been very carefully maintained and has no gremlins would be worth much more than this car and I’ve seen really nice 100k examples bring decent money. It’s hard to find those. You do get a deal on that car compared to a 40k car in the same condition.
I like low miles and good condition myself because if you have only one of the two, either way it’s a gamble and a discount.
In photos it looked flawless.. No dents or dings, amazing paint, wheels were really nice except for those clearcoat marks, no burning oil on startup. The driver seat was mush from being well sat in, but visually the interior looked good. Headliner had started to go...The engine started feeling a little tired and had cooling issues, gas gauge stopped working, etc... It felt like hitting 100k was when all the gremlins came out at once.
My 30k mile Vert on the other hand feels like how I remember that car at 26k miles. The engine fires right up. Pulls strong and doesn’t leak at all. Transmission shifts nice, everything works. Took it to my Friend’s for a run through and said the alignment is a little off but that’s it. Needs absolutely nothing.
I think there might be low mile cars that will run strong and not have all the gremlins of a higher mile car but maybe were just stored outside and/or never cared for cosmetically. It’s worth taking a look at those and sprucing them up cosmetically.
I felt like putting miles on these cars really did affect them. My 2012 Tahoe even feels more tired at 165k now. I’ve babied that truck and anytime it needs something it’s been dealer serviced it’s whole life. They can’t even believe how many miles are on it when they see it. That truck looks in and out how it looked with 39k miles on it. It’s starting to feel tired though.. A lot of the cool features and power options are feeling tired and you wonder when things that aren’t worth fixing are going to start going.. No visible rust on the exterior, but the underside is looking tired and old.
I do think a 100k mile show car that has been very carefully maintained and has no gremlins would be worth much more than this car and I’ve seen really nice 100k examples bring decent money. It’s hard to find those. You do get a deal on that car compared to a 40k car in the same condition.
I like low miles and good condition myself because if you have only one of the two, either way it’s a gamble and a discount.
#28
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Re: Pretty affordable 1986 IROC
The miles on this car are irrelevant because the engine, trans, rear axle and brakes are all complete garbage. Even someone whose primary focus isn't performance would still be disappointed. You'd be hard pressed to even find a new car today that is slower than this car, econoboxes included. This entire powertrain is a malaise era carry-over that should never have been installed in anything after 1983. Cars like this aren't being purchased by the resto crowd on this forum anyway. This car's condition and realistic price point put it in the market of hotrodders looking for something cheap to get into and modify to their liking.
If the paint and body are decent in person, it's a $3500 car that needs a complete powertrain swap. Follow Hawk's on Instagram, you'll see cars like this commonly being transformed by people with some money to play with.
If the paint and body are decent in person, it's a $3500 car that needs a complete powertrain swap. Follow Hawk's on Instagram, you'll see cars like this commonly being transformed by people with some money to play with.
#29
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Re: Pretty affordable 1986 IROC
I can tell you firsthand buying the low-po cars isn't worth it by the time you fix them up.I bought mine because it was adult owned and not beat up and that goes a long way but.. I could have bought a nicer optioned original 5spd or 350 car from the start and saved myself a ton of $ that ive spent upgrading mine and im not even finished yet after 5yrs.
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