i eventually am going to buy the covans classic gauge panel, and put in either auto-meter z-series or sunpro black face gauges. i want all electric gauages. my question is right now my fuel level and oil pressure gauage dont work, so i am going to buy both of these gauages now(either the autometer or sunpro havent decided)and buy a cheap little gauage panel to get through. do i need to get a new sending unit for them, or can i use the stock one, also what about the voltmeter gauage the sending unit is just a single wire right?

 

I'm not sure about the oil gauge, but the fuel level gauge is probable OK and the sending unit is Bad. Chevy charges $600 for the sending unit. It only comes with the entire assembly of fuel lines and pump and sending unit that go into the tank.

Autometer sells a sending unit for about $20 but it has different Resistances from stock and you’ll need to buy an appropriate gauge. I replaced the sending unit off an assembly I got at the junkyard and while I was at it replaced the fuel pump with a Walbro and with a little drilling cutting and soldering was able to get an Autometer fuel level gauge to fit it the stock location. I will be installing them in the car in a week or so. I've taken pictures and will post them when I'm finished.

 

How hard would you say it would be to take out a gas tank and replace the pump? Also where is the fuel filter on our cars? My brother has EGR fuel pump and his is right there but I dont know where mine is because I have an in-tank pump...so where would the filter be?

 

I am getting this cluster with full autometer guages...STOCK REPLACEMENT. What I love about this.

The second picture is of the same cluster but without the holes cut out....so you can buy this and just have whatever guages you need....then add more.

 

I'm going to let my Auto Electric guy replace my sending unit ($175). I don't have a good place to work on it. I pulled a tank out at "pick your part" but others did most of the work before I got to it.

I'm pretty sure you'll need to drop your exhaust system and there is a bar of some kind (not sure what's it called) that needs to be removed, then unbolt the straps from the tank loosen the clamps from the 4 tubes coming out of the tank and lastly wrestle the tank out of the car being careful not to damage the filler neck.

The fuel pump and the sending unit are both attached to the 4 tubes going inside the tank.

All and all a Bitch of a job to do, which is why the $175, to me, is money well spent.

 

Yes a bitch. Which is why I cant wait for this.

http://www.nastyperformance.com/CustomFuelSystems.html

Just e-mailed them to see if they are going to come out with the 3rd gen version. If not 4th gen tank is going in place.

 

I talked to the guy at nasty and he said the 4th gen tank will fit a 3rd gen with little to no problems.

 

Then I guess I have to save up like 1g to do it. The kit plus fuel pump/filter and lines will be replaced when I do this....with bigger lines for better fuel travel, also a fuel pressure regulator (all lines will be stainless). Basically I have bigger fuel lines on my go-kart than I do on my car...I never got why that is but ah well Im doing it.

Thanks for letting me know....now my e-mail is pointless. LMAO. I wonder what he is thinking.....damn 3rd genners always asking the same question in 500 e-mails. LMAO. How many times after this was brought up do you think he has been e-mailed with the same question.....probably a hell-of-a-lot.

 

um ok. so it wount work to just buy a oil pressure gauge and hook it up with the stock sending unit, but mount it in a diffrent location temperarily?
and could i get a fuel level gauge and the sending unit built for that gauge and hook that up and mount it in a diffrent location temperarily?

 

Anythings possible. Just matters on how much your willing to spend.

 

this is the oil pressure guage i wanna get, the sending unit is included:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2D2522&FROM=MG

this is the fuel level gauage:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...CP7950&FROM=MG
fuel level sending unit:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...CP7583&FROM=MG

voltmeter gauge:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...CP7955&FROM=MG

ang gauge panel:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...DG2879&FROM=MG


all this is only temperary because im driving to florida in a month, the stock gauges do not work properly in my car, i just want to get these for the rid down.

but they all should work right? cause they have the sending units. and i now it will be a pain to install the fuel gauge, but its better then not having one.

 

You would still have to pull the gas tank out. You'll have to drill a new hole in the tank about 2" diameter (without creating a spark), figure a way to capture some nuts so you can bolt the new sending unit to the tank, and make sure it's sealed real good.

Modifying the existing assembly to hold the new sending unit is way easier.

 

Modifying the existing assembly to hold the new sending unit is way easier.[/quote]

how would you do that?
just find a way to get the new gauage and the old sending unit to work together?

 

First, stock sending units are 0 Ohms = empty, and 90 Ohms = full, Autometer sells the only aftermarket one I know of but theirs is 240 ohm = empty and 33 ohms = full. They also sell a full line of fuel gauges to work with the sending unit. So get a new sending unit, Autometer sells them for about $20 and gauge. The sending unit is a variable resistor attached to a float, much like the one that shuts off the water in the toilet.

Anyway once you have the old assembly out of the gas tank, you'll see what I mean. Just remove the old sending unit by unbending a couple of tabs on the backing plate and take off the resistor coil on the blacking plate, drill 2 holes that will allow you to bolt the new sender on the old assembly attach the float making bends to match the shape of the original and cut off any excess.

It's a lot easier than this makes it sound. Once you pull the assembly out of the tank and have the new sender in your hand it will be clear what you need to do.

Also I would replace the fuel pump while everything is torn apart. You’ll hate yourself if you get it all back together and in week or month the fuel pump dies.

 

LMAO. Yeah you dont want that to happen.

 

do they make those custom gage panels fot trans ams?

 

if i was to find an aftermarket gauage that was 0 Ohms = empty, and 90 Ohms = full, could i just plug in the new gauge and not worry about the sending unit, or do they both need to be done together?

i found this on summit i think its what i need:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

Autometer does make that gauge, but I like I said in my first reply I bet the gauge is not bad I bet it's sending unit that's bad I tested a least 4 from a junkyard and they were all bad. If you got a gauge 0=empty and 90 = full you'll more than likely have the same problem. I've already explained the cheapest and surest way to go, outside of the whole new aftermarket gas tank assembly talked about earlier.

 

im sorry if im sounding like an idiot here but, im having a brain fart. your saying it would be better to just change the sending unit becuase the gauge is probally good?
and i need to find a 0-90 ohm sending unit?

 

There is no such thing as an aftermarket sending with 0-90 ohms except from chevy and they will only sell it as an assembly with the fuel pump and and gas tubing ($600.00 +).
If you can afford that then go for it. Autometer sells the only other fuel sending unit I know of but they are 240-33 ohms and you will have to buy a new gauge that works with 240-33 ohms.

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
thats is a 0-90 sending unit, or is that not what you are talking about?

 

Well I didn't known of that one. The picture is too small for me to tell but if you can remove the sender from the assembly it came with and bolt it in place of the original then that’s the way to go.
If the picture was bigger I could tell for sure, but it will probably work. I would have got that one if I knew about it. If you can't rig it to fit on the original assembly then you will have to drill a new hole in the gas tank and you really don't want to do that.

 

there are actually two other ones one by summit and one by RCI
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294776442

but you think it would be best to just buy that and install that, instead of getting a new gauge. and the gas tank still hass to be pulled to put this in?

 

SUM-290260, VDO-226008 look like they may be adaptable but I only have experience with the autometer one.

I really hate to type so let me know how it works out whatever you decide.

 

I like the Covans piece as well. Does it include the indicator and warning lights like on the factory panel? I can't tell from the picture.

Also, if I bought the phantom gauges what sending units from autometer do I have to buy to marry it up with what's in the car now? In other words how do I make all the gauges work properly? Thanks........

 

This might be a question for Autometer to answer. E-mail them....cant hurt any.

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
well i ordered that sending unit last night.
and i have to pull the gas tank out in order to install that right?

 

Oh yeah....everythings inside the tank. Sucks I cant do mine because I have a full tank of *** right now. LMAO. That and I want to do the 4th gen fuel cell kit.

 

well this looks like a great job for my mechanic to do.

 

I have seen my brother do a gas tank on a 94 blazer (the odd year) and it seemed like it sucked but if you do everything and it all works smoothly they're actually not that bad...make sure you have a buddy with you...maybe 2 buddies. Lol. Well update us on how it comes out.

 

are our oil pressure gauges electric or mechanical?

 

electric

 

is the NPT sender a 1/4 or 1/8 in.?9 (for the oil pressure gague)