Wondering if anyone has run into this problem with their rear hatch motors:

Finally got the button on the dash to "pop" the hatch...the motor raises the hatch, but then pulls it back down once it reaches the top of it's cycle.

I took the back plastic off and checked the wiring, loose bolts...everything looks good, cleaned the contacts and all, can't seem to find the cause.

Not an issue when I use the key, as I am standng back there and can just raise the hatch, but when I use the button by the time I get back there to the hatch, it's pulling back down.

Thanks for any help!!

Army Strong!

 

It is a common problem on Firebirds such as yours with the solid urethane aero spoiler. There are a couple of solutions I'm aware of. You can swap out the old spoiler for the aftermarket hollow fiberglass one. Second, you can spent the time to adjust the rear hatch pull-down unit until you get it to the point that you can pop the solenoid hatch release, but the hatch hook remains in contact with the striker-sensing switch so it doesn't start the "up" cycle. This allows you to ge around and lift up the hatch. At that point the hatch motor will start it's up-cycle. It takes some adjustng up and down and trial and error until you get it to that point. I recommend markign the current location of the pull-down units frame to the body with a permanent marker of scratch awl. Then loosen the 3 thirteen mm bolts and adjust it up or down (I recommend starting by going up instead of down).

Lon

 

Thanks for the help, I'll try that out today. It must be just a little off because I had it working correctly and then when I put all the plastics back on, it started doing the same thing.

In the meantime if anyone else has any other advice, it would be greatly appreciated.

HOOAH!

 

I have the motorised pull down on my car but no dash button to pop it - is this common?

 

I didnt even know that button on my console lowers the hatch. I thought it just pops it open. Heh...mine doesnt even do that.

 

I had the same problem, I replaced the entire motor assembly and it still was doing it, my hatch struts were a little weak so I replaced them and the problem vanished.

not sure if this will fix your issue but ti did mine.

 

I have this same issue with my hatch release on my IROC. Been this way a long time. So does the solution in post #2 fix it? Seems easy enough to do. But then the post about the hatch struts has me thinking. Mine are basically shot, been that way a long time. I have a little plastic arm that holds the hatch up once i raise it all the way. So i wonder if the weak struts are not letting the hatch "pop up" enough so the contacts do not force it to pull back down. Good topic.

 

I am in the process of modding a 79 Riviera trunk pull down assembly for use on an 80 Monte project I have-not sure if the 3rd gens are similar in function but on my assembly, the grounding tang clears the latch assembly which opens the ground circuit to prevent the unit from pulling it back down-I wonder if you just need to adjust the tang a bit? Also, if the plastic housing is cracked around the mounting screws, the whole thing flexes and creates the problem of contacts not releasing or engaging when required.

 

I ended up replacing the gas supports first, before making any adjustments. I knew they were weak, for long time actually. Now the rear hatch opens/shut like it is supposed to. Actually pops up with some authority now! shoulda changed them out long time ago!

 

The hatch release solenoid on 86-91 pull-down units was a factory option. You can add a solenoid and the wiring, relay, hatch release button to yours. Be sure to also add the ground wire that goes fromt the 10mm screw that attaches the solenoid to the latch assy. It grounds to the body ground location below the pull-down unit. Without the ground wire the solenoid will not work because it is electrically isolated from ground by the guides.

Lon