Trunk won't lock down
#1
Trunk won't lock down
Well I made the move from 2nd gen to 3rd gen (still have 2nd gen) My problem is i have a 1991 Z28 i opened the truck lid, with the key (it has one of those power motors) and now i can't get it to close. Is their some kind of trick, sequences to get it to lock down Thanks for your help
Last edited by Burbo; 09-03-2009 at 08:23 AM.
#2
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Car: 1987 Black IROC-Z (SOLD)
Re: Trunk won't lock down
Well I made the move from 2nd gen to 3rd gen (still have 2nd gen) My problem is i have a 1991 Z28 i opened the truck lid, with the key (it has one of those power motors) and now i can't git it to close. Is their some kind of trick, sequences to get it to lock down Thanks for your help
#4
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Car: 91 RS TBI 91 Z28 TPI
Engine: 305
Transmission: wc T5
Re: Trunk won't lock down
if turns out that your motor is done......a quick fix is to remove the rear cargo plastic that covers it,unbolt the whole thing and move it up so that the latch will catch... it what i did while waiting for a new motor to turn up.
#5
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Re: Trunk won't lock down
Well I made the move from 2nd gen to 3rd gen (still have 2nd gen) My problem is i have a 1991 Z28 i opened the truck lid, with the key (it has one of those power motors) and now i can't get it to close. Is their some kind of trick, sequences to get it to lock down Thanks for your help
Camaro Hatch Motor
#6
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Car: 1988 Pontiac Firebird
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Re: Trunk won't lock down
there is a trick you could try.. you can stick your finger down in the motor latch and get if the motor is still working it will gradually come back up and you can try shutting it again. sometimes when you shut it the trunk motor latch wont catch the trunk lid causing it not to shut or work.
#7
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Car: 87 Camaro
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Re: Trunk won't lock down
I can open mine a few times but more than 3 times the trunk motor wont come up and i have to slam it shut, its the only way it will close and works fine after.
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#10
Re: Trunk won't lock down
i agree with the finger trick, when i first got my third gen i had a problem like that, i moved the motor all around, took it out, checked for power, then i put a pencil down it at school and like magic, it worked lol
i just replaced the reversing switch in mine (thanks to the guys at top-down-solutions!) because it would come up, but it wouldnt go back down. now its working like a charm (knock on wood!) but that was just one of the things to check off on my long list of stuff to fix on this car lol, too bad its a daily driver....
i just replaced the reversing switch in mine (thanks to the guys at top-down-solutions!) because it would come up, but it wouldnt go back down. now its working like a charm (knock on wood!) but that was just one of the things to check off on my long list of stuff to fix on this car lol, too bad its a daily driver....
#12
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Car: 1991 Z-28
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Re: Trunk won't lock down
I agree, the top down solutions instructions are good. If you push down on teh switch and it moves then you just eliminated the fuse, power and most wiring issues. Then it is most likely an adjustment issue. (You need to make sure the striker is actually tripping the switch)
#13
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Car: 1988 Pontiac Firebird
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Re: Trunk won't lock down
I had the same problem with mine. The finger trick helped but the striker was not tripping the switch to actually hold the trunk down. All I had to do was shim it forward a little bit and it latched just fine.
Thanks everybody
Thanks everybody
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Re: Trunk won't lock down
When mine started acting up the finger trick worked at first then at the worst possible time the mechanism lost power and stopped coming up, leaving me with no way to fully close/latch the rear hatch. This led to a night from hell that I will not bore you with. Fortunately there was a Chevy dealer next to where I was when it stopped working. After I convinced the tech that the car actually had the soft touch close feature, he remembered the same crummy unit from Cadillacs and discovered an internal switch had crapped out. Some connection inside the switch itself had broken. When he pushed against the side of the component, it reconnected and the power returned. When he stopped applying pressure to the side, the connection again broke, losing the power. Because the part was discontinued he used a zip tie tightened around the switch housing to apply constant pressure and restore the internal connection, allowing the unit to again function. This $120.00 zip tie jury rig is still working, but I can't say for how long. Perhaps the same thing happened inside your unit.
Just realized this is an old thread, but that's what the issue was within my unit that prevented me from closing my rear hatch, in case this helps someone in the future when in a pinch.
Just realized this is an old thread, but that's what the issue was within my unit that prevented me from closing my rear hatch, in case this helps someone in the future when in a pinch.
Last edited by Gen X T/A; 09-30-2013 at 11:03 PM.
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