Flightoficarus

Ah yes, one of the most infamous issues with these cars..I've been aware that mine do in fact leak for a short while now. Luckily we haven't had much rain around here, and the leaking has been pretty minimal, only accumulating up to a couple of ever so slightly damp spots I noticed, and we had some heavier rainfall earlier in the week.

I know the weatherstripping seals on the car are torn in spots, and in generally bad shape, so I suspect those are the culprit. The only spots that they seem to leak onto at all are the driver's seat, rear-passenger seat behind the driver's, and just a bit onto the floor in the back seat. They do not leak around the center bar.

Eventually, I plan to strip the interior to look for any rust spots that may have accumulated over time, sand them out, fill them in, and coat them. So far, I know of nothing floor-pan related in my car, the undercarriage is is good enough shape, and there's what may be a tiny surface rust spot the size of a dime in the trunk pan. Should all be easy fixes.

I guess what I'm wondering is, should new weatherstripping fix this problem? And where can I get a good deal on a full kit for the entire car? Also, should I expect any major surprises when I do strip the carpet? It's been a western WA car it's whole life, where we generally don't have to worry about things like salted roads and such.

Thanks!

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Definitely pull the seats and the carpet. Depending on where the seals are leaking, the leak could have traveled a long way. Look for rust in the corners of the rear footwells by the doors and in about the same area in the front corner of each door. Be warned that there will probably be a ton of rust under the weatherstripping as well.

There is a site for Fieros that explains a lot of the problems and solutions.
http://www.fierottop.com/waterleak/ The site may be for Fieros, but the basic concepts are the same. Also, note that GM has a TSB for water leaks and that you may need to adjust both the side windows and the top mounting posts on the body.

Flightoficarus

Thanks! Hmm..well, based on that website, it's the B butt-joint on the driver's side door that appears to be the culprit. I've also noticed it only seems to be noticable in very heavy rainfall, but from what I can tell, there are no other leaks on the car. Hopefully if there is any rust under the weatherstripping, it isn't TOO Bad...This car isn't a complete basket case yet, but it was gonna become one if I didn't pick it up, lol. With any luck, I'll hopefully have a garage I can leave it in within a few months to keep it out of the rain.

I'll post some pictures of the seals later, and perhaps you can tell me just how bad it looks? thanks again

1Aauto

If you're in a jamb and end up needing some weatherstrip to repair some of yours,we carry a ton of seals for your vehicle.

Pontiac Firebird Weatherstrip

Flightoficarus

Ok, so I still haven't uploaded any pics, but I've manged to ghetto-rig the broken parts of the seals, duct-tape style. I've managed to stop most of the leaking, except for a couple of spots that still leak, but I leave dry towels in when it rains (the leak is small enough that a towel is enough to prevent it from getting the interior wet).

This will have to suffice for now, as I want to save up some money and just be able to take care of the vast majority of the cosmetic work at once (paint + body work, and weatherstripping). With any luck, I will hopefully be able to keep this car either garaged, stored, or under some type of cover in a few months or so, in the interest of preventing any more damage.

The question I have now though, is related to aftermarket vs GM T-top weatherstripping. Which one should I go with when it does come time to give this car TLC? I've noticed that the outer side-rail seals in the Hawks t-top kit have retainer bars that are supposed to help prevent these from sagging (mine do), whereas the GM ones don't. Aftermarket is also cheaper, so that's another plus. But do they fit properly? I'm aware some t-top cars were aftermarket jobs by C&C, but I'm pretty sure mine are factory, I just need to measure them.

So...aftermarket or GM repros? Thanks for your input!

overide

One thing you can do is clean everything really well... dry it all good and then use a hose or sprinkler to track the leaks. Thats how the dealerships track leaks in cars. You can spray a bit then dry the outside real good and slowly take out each top and see if and what you notice wet wise under the glass edge where the seals meet the tops then check your seals.

If its been going on a while you may find that the leak in actually under the seal not. Maybe even a pocket of rust that has allowed a break in the weatherstrip/gaskets seal to the body. This was how my 82 was.

When you do go to replace the weatherstrip. Its gonna be a paint, but do yourself a favor and strip it all down and off the body. Fix any rust back to perfectly smooth. It will be worth it.

Also invest in some subframe connectors before you install the new seal. Body twist is a common cause of failure in t-tops. I bet you will find the v-8 cars have more issues them then the 6s doe to body torque and twist.

Bobby Suth

iTrader: (2)

thanks guys,got your tips,my 89 w/350tpi will be getting sub frame conectors soon.How much do they cost?about

Flightoficarus

Bobby: A set of good, weld-in SFC's tend to run around $200 or so, give or take. Whether you have them installed or do it yourself is what will determine the final cost.

As for my t-top issue, do you really think a stock 305 TBI is making enough power to cause body-twist on one of these cars? From what I can tell, the leak is coming through torn weatherstripping spots, and in the top corner where the drivers side window meets w/the sail panel and the outer edge of the t-top (the door weatherstripping doesn't look so hot either).

Here's another question. I'm planning on getting a paint job done on this thing when the time comes. Would it be ok to do the weatherstripping first? Or should I take care of everything at once? The main thing I'm concerned about is the whole fixing rust/painting under the weatherstripping part. I have zero experience painting cars, so would I need to sand/prime/paint/coat under it? or just sand/prime/and use some spraypaint or something? I'd prefer to avoid half-assing things if that's what that latter option is.

Oh! and one more thing. How about that stainless steel t-top bar they have at Hawks. A worthy investment? thanks!

overide

T-top grand nationals actually start to tear and stress crack the body at the sail panel area, as do beefed up 350 cars. Granted that is a ton more power then a 305 has stock, but I bet u still get creaking going over speed bumps from body twist. I had a good freind with a v-6 camaro that had horrible noise on unever surfaces till the SFC went in. Then it was like night and day. If it can help a 6 it can help you. I also saw a v-6 at the track that had enough torque to pop some smoothed body work from body torque. The dyno numbers they had showed it was creeping into 305 range. So yes I think if the car was driven hard, esp launched, at all then a 305 can cause body twisting. But with your tears I would suspect them first and foremost. The SFC is a suggestion to be sure to don't have issues down the road. Its better to have the car straight and solid though when you put in the new weather stripping.

If you want a QUALITY paint job... wait and do it at the same time. See if they will let you tear it all out as best you can before you go so you and they both know what your getting into. I would even see if you can come and see the repair of the area BEFORE they lay in the new weather stripping. You will get some guys that don't want to do it right and will try to convince you that silicone and weather strip adhesive will fix it all. I say start with the best, rust free, smoothest finish you can to avoid issues. Don't want them doing a crappy job and leaving you with leaks in the end. Honestly I have heard horror stories about weather stripping issues after doing a replacement becasue someone cut a corner. Heck my body man wanted to take mine out want he repainted the car. I said no. Its not leaking so don't touch it... LOL! Then he handed me the tape to tape around it... LOL!

Have not seen that one as of yet, you got a link or pic?

LoganKello

I had the same problem just in front of the passenger seat and it always soaked the passenger side flip down visor. Instead of buying new seals I just put some caulking down where it was somewhat rusty and it hasnt leaked since...

overide

That could work for a temp fix if wanting to wait till the vehicle gets painted

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

Check out SPOHN, one of our sponsors here. They sell a set of sub frame connectors that IMHO, are second to none. They hug the underside of our cars and fit really nicely. I am really happy with how mine look installed and how they stiffened up the car.

FireDemonSiC

When I bought my car, the T-Tops leaked. It would travel all throughout the T-Bar and leak all over the pass and driver side, the backseats and soak the back floorboards. Whenever I drove in the rain, I would have water trickling down on me from the roof.

As a ghetto fix, I shot about 2 whole tubes of Permatex RTV all through the T-Top gaskets. They still leak a tiny bit by both windows, but this GREATLY minimalized the leaking and held it off sufficiently until I get around to replacing the seals.

Like you, I feared the worst for the condition of my floor. I was utterly SHOCKED when I ripped out the factory carpet for an all black interior conversion, to find NO ROT. The only rust, was a very small amount of surface rust where the rocker panels come together on the inside, as well as a few pen tip sized specs of surface rust starting to poke through the paint. I hit these areas with POR-15, then layered the entire floor in Rustoleum professional grade undercoating before replacing the carpet.