Roll cage advice.
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Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 13
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From: Charleston TN
Car: '86 camaro inthe works
Engine: 350
Roll cage advice.
To anybody out there who has added a roll cage to your cars. In the end I need to add one to mine. I will more than likely be driving like a bat out of hell in her and I plan on putting the best possible brakes on it before anything else but a failsafe is always required. So my question is when to install how to install and the best make to install. Can anybody assist me in this?
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,204
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
Re: Roll cage advice.
Really overall you'd probably be better off putting money into a wonderbar and SFCs first if you don't have those already.
Is there a reason why you need a roll cage or roll bar? Normally people only add them for class rules, to safely mount harnesses (which aren't DOT Approved street legal anyway), add more structural enforcement to the chassis. I only added mine due to a GP with a good deal. Remember normally it can cost up to around $100 per point to have them installed.
Is there a reason why you need a roll cage or roll bar? Normally people only add them for class rules, to safely mount harnesses (which aren't DOT Approved street legal anyway), add more structural enforcement to the chassis. I only added mine due to a GP with a good deal. Remember normally it can cost up to around $100 per point to have them installed.
Last edited by fireturd350; Dec 30, 2012 at 03:04 PM.
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Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 1,410
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From: Location, Location!
Car: 92 T/A 'vert
Engine: Mild .040 over L98 4 bolt mains
Transmission: Mostly stock 700R4, 2600 Vigilante
Axle/Gears: LS1 3.42
Re: Roll cage advice.
Yeah, roll bar/cages are a pain. Unless you need one to pass inspection/follow class rules, I'd leave it go. The only reason I'm toying with the idea in my car is it's a 'vert/just fast enough that if I go to a "real" track and not the fly by night joint I usually go to, (NLR in Indiana, lousy safety program at best), they politely show me the exit road out of the pits.
Last edited by watajob; Dec 30, 2012 at 03:21 PM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Charleston TN
Car: '86 camaro inthe works
Engine: 350
Re: Roll cage advice.
I plan on auto crossing a lot. and to answer carlos I have a very heavy foot. I don't require one my car isn't currently running.....sad panda..... but when it is I am just trying to get a bearing on when all of this should be done. im still very new to this. this car will be my first resto and I want to do it right and get as much advice as possible.
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 262
Likes: 5
From: Toronto
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH350 for now
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Roll cage advice.
I plan on auto crossing a lot. and to answer carlos I have a very heavy foot. I don't require one my car isn't currently running.....sad panda..... but when it is I am just trying to get a bearing on when all of this should be done. im still very new to this. this car will be my first resto and I want to do it right and get as much advice as possible.
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 373
Likes: 58
From: Springfield, IL
Car: '89 Formula WS6
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4/T56
Axle/Gears: BW 3.23
Re: Roll cage advice.
Keep in mind it makes access to your backseat more difficult, and renders it useless for passengers. It also gets real fun climbing over a door-bar after awile. I wouldn't recommend one unless the car isn't your DD, and it's required by class rules.
It's also far more dangerous to drive a caged car on the street as it greatly increases the likelyhood of suffering a head injury. It's only safer in a racecar because your wearing a helmet.
IMO unless it's needed for class rules, skip it. The easiest way to stay safe on the street, cost's nothing, and keeps everyone else safe, is to not drive like a tool. Think about it, if you feel that you need one on a public road; it's because you plan on outdriving your own talent and/or conditions. And you admit to being aware of it! Don't be that guy.
It's also far more dangerous to drive a caged car on the street as it greatly increases the likelyhood of suffering a head injury. It's only safer in a racecar because your wearing a helmet.
IMO unless it's needed for class rules, skip it. The easiest way to stay safe on the street, cost's nothing, and keeps everyone else safe, is to not drive like a tool. Think about it, if you feel that you need one on a public road; it's because you plan on outdriving your own talent and/or conditions. And you admit to being aware of it! Don't be that guy.
Last edited by Anti-Venom; Jan 3, 2013 at 10:00 AM.
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 865
Likes: 2
From: LI, NY
Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: 355
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 10 Bolt Posi
Re: Roll cage advice.
its illegal to carry a passenger if you have a main hoop in the car with the correct cross bar.
I like 5 and 6 pt roll bars. They add a good bit of safety and they look pretty nice.
Down side is you run in a more advanced class in auto x like previously said.
And you need one if your running faster than 11.49 in the 1/4
I like 5 and 6 pt roll bars. They add a good bit of safety and they look pretty nice.
Down side is you run in a more advanced class in auto x like previously said.
And you need one if your running faster than 11.49 in the 1/4
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